How to set grind angle?

[Steve Mathews]

How do you set a specific grind angle using a Oneway Wolverine Jig platform and outrigger without matching an angle already established on the tool? I ordered a Robo Rest to take care of the question for the platform but how is it done with the platform supplied with the Wolverine Jig? And how do you get a specific angle with the Vari-Grind? Hopefully my question was phrased correctly.

[Michael Schneider]

I am far from an expert, and there are many ways to do it. You can go to craft supplies and buy something and be done. Or you can make jigs.

The variables for setting the grind angle and grind length on the tool with the variagrind are:
1) angle of the leg of the varia grind jig - if you use the raptor tools use this template (print out paper and lay jig on page, match arm with picture) http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/raptor.pdf
2) amount of tool sticking out of the variagrind jig (you can use 2" for primary variable, and 2 1/2 for secondary bevel if you have an 8" wheel on your grinder)
3) length between the arm that holds the variagrind jig and the wheel - sets the angle of the grind

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/95/5188/Raptor-Set-Up-Tools

1) use the tool length gauge to set the amount of the tool that protudes from the wolverine jig https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/94/6008/Raptor-Grinding-Jig-Guide
2) Use the angle gauge to set the distance from the platform to the wheel for the specific tool grind angle https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/95/5188/Raptor-Set-Up-Tools

See video https://youtu.be/sTqKMzqbt20

[Jamie Straw]

Steve, sharpening was the biggest challenge for me when I started turning. What totally simplified it for me, and changed my life:), was spending time with Dave Schweitzer -- both in his shop and watching two of his YouTube videos. I even wrote a little handout to refer to whenever my mind went blank or a friend needed help. So here's the stuff.

Video #1 (important to watch in order): Title is "Sharpening Bowl Gouges" but it also sets the stage for spindle gouge sharpening, and explains clearly about the Wolverine system (there are many myths out there:()
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxdLXsFl01s

Video #2: Sharpening spindle gouges and many other tools. It’s all good, but the Wolverine/spindle section starts at 10:00. He re-grinds a pointy-tip gouge at 15:10.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdF9mmJtuvU

I will try attaching the text file here also, just in case it could be of help. A couple of things to note: if you have a CBN wheel, you can just make a dowel that spaces between the V-pocket and the frame it slides in (for distance) since the wheel size never changes. Also, according to Dave, the pocket distance controls the side grind, the leg on the Wolverine controls the bevel. Others believe differently.

And.....regarding a secondary grind to soften the heel of the bowl gouge -- no need to reset anything, just cut a small block of wood that will fit in the pocket and is about 5/8" thick. When you're done grinding your main bevel and want to soften the heel, slip the piece of wood into the pocket and place the tip of the Wolverine leg against it, grind the heel. The block basically pushes the gouge up to reach the heel. If I want more than what my block of wood provides, I place a quarter in front of the wood. OK, trying the .doc file. (ooops, file too big due to pics. Will revise and post later) Here are the dowel and block of wood pics though.

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[Jamie Straw]

Testing upload of document. Notes to go with Schweitzer video.
341151

Hmmm, will see if it worked. Well, that was kinda funny. I tried to open it in the same program I composed it in, but it didn't recognize the file. Still opened it as a text file. Sorry you guys are guinea pigs.:D

More reflections. I use a 1-7/8" "stick out." Other distances will work, just need a corresponding change in the leg setting. The longer your standard stick-out, the less room you have before the shape of the bottom of the flute messes up the clamp holding the tool. I've changed the leg setting for my spindle gouges, to get it less aggressive. Silver Sharpie marks give me a reference for each, spindle and bowl. When things get more sophisticated down the road, with several different bevel angles, will have to think of something else.

[John K Jordan]

Testing upload of document. Notes to go with Schweitzer video.
341151

Hmmm, will see if it worked. Well, that was kinda funny. I tried to open it in the same program I composed it in, but it didn't recognize the file. Still opened it as a text file. Sorry you guys are guinea pigs.:D More reflections. I use a 1-7/8" "stick out." Other distances will work, just need a corresponding change in the leg setting. The longer your standard stick-out, the less room you have before the shape of the bottom of the flute messes up the clamp holding the tool. I've changed the leg setting for my spindle gouges, to get it less aggressive. Silver Sharpie marks give me a reference for each, spindle and bowl. When things get more sophisticated down the road, with several different bevel angles, will have to think of something else.

It opened fine for me in Microsoft Word.
You can adjust the support and/or the angle of the leg to give the same cutting edge angle with a different "stick-out". However, the shape of the grind will change with the amount of stick-out and leg angle, specifically the shape of the wings. It all gets very complicated quickly. Fortunately, for most things the specific shape of the wings makes very little practical difference, IMO.

(As a thought experiment, I imagined how the wings would change with extremes on the stick-out, for example with a theoretical jig that held the gouge without the inconvenience of the clamp getting in the way. First with the tip of the gouge exactly in line with the axis of the leg, then compared to using a very long stick-out, say a foot or more.)

I just remembered the Tormek manual has a nice chart illustrating the different shapes of the grind with different leg angles (their JS numbers) and edge angles:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0ahUKEwiswueunobOAhWM6CYKHY2eCMYQFgg1MAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fec1.images-amazon.com%2Fmedia%2Fi3d%2F01%2FA%2Fman-migrate%2FMANUAL000005972.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFoYxzeB8o8QPqJZfOvrxYqOMZwBA&sig2=QvdvSJfh7pkeHMFwUZqCAw&cad=rja

JKJ

[Aaron Craven]

For setting up a repeatable grind angle on the Varigrind, look up Raptor Setup tools. I've never used them (I have no idea what the exact angle is for my gouge anyway), but we have a club member that swears by them. I think you can find templates on the internet to make your own as well.

[Jamie Straw]

For setting up a repeatable grind angle on the Varigrind, look up Raptor Setup tools. I've never used them (I have no idea what the exact angle is for my gouge anyway), but we have a club member that swears by them. I think you can find templates on the internet to make your own as well.

I had a set, sold 'em. If your grinder is set up per Oneway instructions, they work OK I guess, but if you need to raise the grinder higher due to the shields getting in the way of the Wolverine base components, the Raptors are "off" with respect to the angle stated. Just in case, though, I drew outlines of them on poster board.:D Who knows, might be able to use them once I get a 2nd CBN wheel, because I could lower my grinder.:cool:

[Michael Schneider]

Jamie,

That is a good point. I sprung for 2 CBN wheels and took the guards off. That allowed for easy setup to oneway's suggestions, and the raptor system allowed me to easily get running sharpening.

There are many ways to do it besides raptor (I am also a fan of Dave's tools and sharpening videos). But I only had so much time, and the cost of the raptor set was low. I just bought the raptors and called it a day for grinding gouges.

I am currently spending the time I would have spent on building sharpening jigs making a stand for my bare vicmarc 300 lathe buildup. Other people's time would be better spent buying a complete lathe and having fun turning.

Everyone has their time vs $$ tradeoff. Sometimes one has the time to spend building jigs, etc. Other times, one is better off turning (especially for $$$) and buying their jigs they might otherwise build.

I am not yet retired, so the job sometimes takes some extra time.

Happy turning all, finding a way that is easy for you to sharpen will greatly improve your turning, or even make it possible to turn.
Michael