Doug Rasmussen
07-21-2016, 6:46 PM
Finally got some time to try out an idea for tangential turning. Rather than use glued segments as shown in the August, '14 issue of American Woodturner I tried a solid block.
A 2" square block of scrap mahogany 3" long. Made a holding tenon on the end and tapered the sides 15 degrees each, 30 degree included angle.
Used the table saw to carefully put cuts in the block to accept .135" thick blood wood. (Is it just a coincidence that my table saw blade makes a .135" kerf, perfect fit.) Unfortunately I ran the block through twice to get a deeper groove, the second pass widened the kerf a bit. For a piece this size the .135" thick "veneer" is way out of scale, but you use what you have sometimes.
The blood wood was glued into the sawed kerfs.
The end view shows there is only a slight twist to the inlay, much less than I was hoping for. It did prove my concept though. Next time I'll try a much larger diameter with respect to height which should show more twist. Plus I'll get thinner veneer more in scale.
A 2" square block of scrap mahogany 3" long. Made a holding tenon on the end and tapered the sides 15 degrees each, 30 degree included angle.
Used the table saw to carefully put cuts in the block to accept .135" thick blood wood. (Is it just a coincidence that my table saw blade makes a .135" kerf, perfect fit.) Unfortunately I ran the block through twice to get a deeper groove, the second pass widened the kerf a bit. For a piece this size the .135" thick "veneer" is way out of scale, but you use what you have sometimes.
The blood wood was glued into the sawed kerfs.
The end view shows there is only a slight twist to the inlay, much less than I was hoping for. It did prove my concept though. Next time I'll try a much larger diameter with respect to height which should show more twist. Plus I'll get thinner veneer more in scale.