More tool decisions to make...

[Phil Winn]

Just a few more tool decisions to make-your thoughts? Changes?

Woodworking set-up tools, for TableSaw, DrillPress, Jointer, Planer, DrumSander,
BandSaw, RouterTable.

1. Mastergage----www.mastergage.com<O:p</O:p

A. Professional Mastergage or

B. Classic Mastergage

2. TS-Aligner----- www.ts-aligner.com (http://www.ts-aligner.com)<O:p</O:p

A. TS-Aligner (Sr.)

B. TS-Aligner Jr.

Straight edges:

1. Starrett 48”

2. Veritas (3. Garrett-Wade straight edge

SawStop blade:

1. Forrest Woodworker II 40T 1/8”

I am leaning toward the 1/8” over the 3/32”

SawStop Dado:

1. Freud SD508 8” (with shims…)

2. Freud SD608 8” (Dial)

Metal detector:

1. Wizzard III

Thanks for all of the help with this project; soon, I will write a post, about the good, bad, ugly, and changes I will make next time. Please either post, PM, or email me.

Thanks,

Phil

[Dan Larson]

Hi Phil,

My advice comes with a caveat-- I'm relatively new to woodworking, but I am a bit of a freak when it comes to getting the details right. You can take my opinions for whatever they are worth...

TS-Aligner: If you're inclined to drop some money on a set-up gauge, this would be a good choice. I have one, and I'm very happy with it. Well engineered, well made, excellent documentation on a wide variety of tool set-up operations, and Ed Bennett runs a class operation. I've made three separate orders with him, and each time the order has been shipped the same day that I placed it. Fancy set-up tools like this one are not essential for the proper adjustment of your tools, but they can make the job a little easier and more fun.

Lee Valley 4' aluminum straight edge: For woodworking purposes, I think this one is plenty accurate. Nice price, too.

I have no experience with the Forrest blades. Go with the 1/8", though. Unless you're super worried about conserving as much of your wood as possible, there's not much benefit to your using a thin kerf balde in your SawStop. It has plenty of power to drive a regular kerf blade.

Freud SD508: Very smooth cuts with this set. I don't mind setting up with the shims.

Hope this helps.
Dan

[Jim Becker]

I have the TS Aligner Jr (review on my site) and like it, but it rarely gets used, largely because the tools I have stay accurate over long periods of time.

Forrest blades are the mainstay of my shop...they are all I own at this point. Full kerf (1/8") is what you want. There is almost no reason to buy a thin-kerf blade unless you have a seriously underpowered benchtop saw (and you don't). I use the WW-II 40T for most cutting and also have the WW-II 20t ripping blade and DadoKing. The Freud SD 508 (either version) is an excellent choice, however, for that function and has less scoring than the Forrrest dado, desirable if you are doing things like box joints.

No comments on the straight edges...I don't own one. 'Probably would buy the long Lee Valley one, however, as the price is right.

[Alan Turner]

Phil,
Forrest WWII, 1/8" -- yes. AS to the dado, Iwouldgo with the Forrest as well since you can't use the dial (I think; call SS). With a Starrett comb. square, you shouldnot need any other alignment tool for the TS. But, if you are going to be tilting your DP table, then take a look at the Bridge City Machine Protractor. Cool, and accurate!

[Phil Winn]

You would pick the Forrest DLX Dado King (or which Forrest?) over the Freud SD508-shim/SD608-dial? Why? How do you compare/contrast the
Freud/Forrest dados...
Thanks,
Phil

[Jim Becker]

I love my Forrest DadoKing, but would not be unhappy with the Freud SD508. Both are excellent products and both give superior results based on independent testing. As I mentioned, the Forrest has a little more pronounced scoring than the Freud. Some folks don't prefer that. It's not bothered me for what I use it for.

[Norman Hitt]

Phil, you might want to also check out the Dado Set from INFINITY, as it has been getting top honors in most of the WW magazine tests lately.

[Michael Ballent]

Phil, the scoring Jim and other are talking about are also called "bat ears". So if you can picture it in your mind you can imagine little peaks at the corners of the dado that are visible from the exit/entry of the dado. So depending on your use of the dados it may be important.



I love my Forrest DadoKing, but would not be unhappy with the Freud SD508. Both are excellent products and both give superior results based on independent testing. As I mentioned, the Forrest has a little more pronounced scoring than the Freud. Some folks don't prefer that. It's not bothered me for what I use it for.

As far as the other items on your list I only had the cash for the TS Aligner Jr but it has been very good for me and as Jim has mentioned it is not used much after you initially set up the machines, but it is great to have. BTW if you SawStop is anything like mine and others I have talked to, the SS is already in tune except for the fence. :D

1/8 blade as other have already mentioned there is plenty of power there on the SS. :D I am not sure the shimless Freud will fit on the SS arbor especially at the bigger widths. Heck I was using the 208 version last weekend and the cuts were working great for me so I could only imagine what the higher end version would be like. Most of that I think was related to the zero clearance plate supporting the cut so it did not splinter at the bottom.

[Dev Emch]

I have found Starret to be really good. A nice straight edge from starret is a real treat to use. I also recommend you get some "ENGINEERING SQUARES". These are all metal squares with heavy steel blades and handles. No wood. No engravings. Also known as machinist squares. You can get them as small as 1 or 2 inches to as much as 12 or 36 inches. I actually like the older Brown & Sharpe better and found most of mine on ebay. Much cheaper on ebay. Last ones I found were two 3 inch B&S squares. One was $5 dollars with intials and the other was pristine for $29 dollars.

I would get the 1/8 in Forrest. Its pointless to try to use a smaller kerf unless you have a unique situation that demands it. And there are situations like that but most of the time, the 1/8 in will serve you just fine and with less vibration and flutter.

As for dados. The Dado King set by forrest works just fine. The only complaint I have is that the shims are magnetic plastic material and you can sometimes squeeze these a bit. I have used shimming brass to shim out these things and this works as well. Whatever floats your boat. In short, you will not be disappointed with the Dado King. Simple, accurate, well made and durable. You dont need to re-read the instructions each time you use it either.

Most of the time, I use metal shop machinist instruments to dial in my machines. The only gage that I have which was made for woodworking machines is the OneWay Gage. That is a useful instrument. I also use planer brackets for setting planer settings. These are homemade and utilize a starret indicator. Nothing special here. The rest of the time, I use starret or brown & sharpe dial indicators with old machinist brackets and bases to set things up. Lots of it was found at old machine shop auctions and an ebay. Often, shops did take care of the good stuff like starettes and so on.

Good Luck...

[Scott Coffelt]

I find that I do not use my miter guage much. A really good sled can take care of many needs. Good quality blades are a must. Alignment tools are nice, but I rarely use them after the initial set up. One thing that I use a lot is a good qulaity straight edge. Lee Valley has a number of sizes and prices. A very good and accurate square. I also like the various marking gauages offered by Veritas.