Project: Interior Door

[Jim Becker]

Well, I'm just full of "different" these days when it comes to projects coming out of my shop! LOL

Something I've been meaning to do for a long time is to replace two doors in our kitchen/eating area that were cobbled together from stained one-by many years ago when the previous property owner still was the owner. :) One leads to the basement under the 250 year old portion of our home and the other is for the powder room. The first one is the subject of this short, semi-build thread. I say "semi-build" because I didn't bother to take photos of milling 8/4 tulip poplar rough stock down to 6/4 finished or of creating the joinery which is pretty much basic T&G and bridle joints. The door fields are nominal 1/2" birch plywood from "previous project inventory".

For the design, these doors are to be "very similar" to the commercial doors used throughout the home addition constructed in 2008...frame and panel with the panels outlined by a simple ogee profile leading to the field; a taller field on top and a shorter one on the bottom. Rails and stiles are initially 4" wide with the center one at 6" wide. These ultimately appear slightly wider once the ogee molding is applied. Given these two custom doors will be a bit shorter than the commercial doors elsewhere in the house, the bottom rail was reduced to that 4" dimension I previously mentioned. It will not be noticeable since there's about 45' of walking to the first commercial door that could be compared. :) The ceiling in this area is only 6'10".

This thread is about the first door (basement stairs) and the second to be documented later will be similar in construction, but will likely be created slightly oversized and then modified to fit a "very non-square" opening using a track saw before final finishing. More on that one it actually happens...

After cutting all the components and joinery, a dry fit of the frame was very necessary
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7970_zps5mxmflug.jpg

After making minor adjustments for a smooth fit, the dry fit was done a second time with the panels to be sure everything was copacetic...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7971_zpsaqgsxkyo.jpg

This is an example of the profile to be used for the molding that further frames the fields on the door. Extra 8/4 stock had the profile milled on all four corners, those boards in-turn were resawn in half and then put through the thickness planer to reduce them to 1/2" thick. The molding was then ripped off at 1/2" wide.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7972_zpsgu6ews9k.jpg

In the mean time, the door joinery was glued up and clamped, followed by application of the molding by mitering it and fastening with glue and 1" 23 gage pin nails
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7974_zpsxk7ik4sd.jpg

The net effect of the molding is this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7975_zpsicgxwkkx.jpg

The back side of the door got a simple 1/2" square molding in the same area; not because it was needed for strength (and this side of the door is never actually seen), but because the routed slot that the panels site in had a few sloppy spots and my anal self was bothered by it. LOL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7980_zps47v4rza0.jpg

After carefully measuring the existing door to determine the hinge placement, it was time to mortise for the hinges in the new door. Since these hinges are also never seen other than when the door is open and access to the basement is required (not something frequent...just to change filters for HVAC and water or use the "horsie" laundry equipment) I'm just going to use the existing hinges. I may or may not choose to use a third one in the middle, however...this door is a bit heavier than the existing one.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7985_zpsk6q06obc.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7986_zpscjdt0m0k.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7987_zpsq8pteoj5.jpg

After all of that, it was on to filling any places needing filling and then sanding. I'll apply finish later...which will ultimately be Sherwin Williams ProClassic Acrylic white...once I have the second door completed. Aside from this ending up exactly as I wanted it to look...the darn thing is also "dead flat"...and that's the true accomplishment, IMHO!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_7988_zpsjpvwpofh.jpg

[Mel Fulks]

Looks good, for your purpose that is a good way to make them. One suggestion, I think aplied moulding works better and finishes easier a heavy 1/8 inch above or below door surface, rather than flush.

[Aaron Conway]

Looks real good. Will be cool to see finished and hung.

[Jim Becker]

Looks good, for your purpose that is a good way to make them. One suggestion, I think aplied moulding works better and finishes easier a heavy 1/8 inch above or below door surface, rather than flush.

'Not sure I really understand. Are you suggesting I invert the molding? Right now, the "flats" of the ogee are similar in thickness (about 1/16") and that wider edge on the molding that's flush with the rails and stiles will "disappear" with finishing. The commercial doors do have thicker "flats" on the ogee, but I made do with the cutter I had in the cabinet. Help me understand what you mean. :)

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah, I thought you had 2 flat surfaces that would be sanded flush, and that will work. I just think it's easier to install it with two levels of surfaces rather than deal with any finishing issues that might telegraph that butt joint.

[Jim Becker]

I understand now, Mel. I was able to install the molding just slightly proud of the rails and stiles and then sanded flush. Any minor cracks were filled with non-shrinking spackle and will hopefully not ever be visible once it's primed and painted with the ProClassic.

[Jim Becker]

This project is now finished...quite literally :D ...and ready to install. SW ProClassic Acrylic satin sheen to match what's already in the kitchen area. Painting a door horizontal like this is so much better than one that's upright! I also installed new stop moldings in the door frame and chiseled out the recess for the middle hinge on the door frame. (The existing door only has two hinges and I'm not comfortable with so much weight on only two hinges) I'll hopefully get the installation done next weekend.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_8038_zpsobv6dwce.jpg

[David Boardman]

That looks awesome! I was recently turned on to Pro-Classic by the manager at my local store. I had been using pro-mar 200 for all of my projects for the past two years. Not sure why he didn't suggest it to me prior to now as it's not a new product or anything. It might have just been due the the difference in price. Now I am hooked on it though! Sprays great and has a very nice satin sheen and it also drys much harder than Pro-mar 200.

[Jim Becker]

The only bummer with ProClassic is it's limited to lighter colors. But I do love it...goes on nicely and levels incredibly well.

[Warren Weckesser]

Do you use a primer under the ProClassic?

[Adam Herman]

you can get deep base pro classic, most stores don't carry it however. We did our kitchen cabinets in a darker shade and we bought the only 2 gallons of pro classic deep base available within 100 miles.

the door looks great! Did you do anything to prevent cracking of the finish where the panel meets the style/rail?

[Jim Becker]

you can get deep base pro classic, most stores don't carry it however. We did our kitchen cabinets in a darker shade and we bought the only 2 gallons of pro classic deep base available within 100 miles.

the door looks great! Did you do anything to prevent cracking of the finish where the panel meets the style/rail?

Hmm...I'm going to have to check that out with the local shop relative to the deep base. They certainly don't stock it and have consistently claimed (for years) it didn't exist. Hmmm... On the other question, the ogee is applied with 23 gage pins and glue only to the rails/stiles. The panel floats.


Do you use a primer under the ProClassic?

Yes, I used Original Kilz for this project because there were a few knots to hide.

[John TenEyck]

Looks great, Jim. What are you spraying ProClassic with? Do you have to thin it?

John

[Jim Becker]

Looks great, Jim. What are you spraying ProClassic with? Do you have to thin it?

John
I did not spray the ProClassic...it's brush applied.

[Adam Herman]

strange. I am looking at 2 pails of satin deep base pro-classic and the website only lists it as a semi-gloss.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/proclassic-interior-waterbased-acrylicalkyd/

ah, i guess i got the non alkyd version:

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/proclassic-waterborne-interior-acrylic-latex/?referringCategory=interior-paint-coatings/paint-coatings/&N=1488370885

[John TenEyck]

Wow, you're good.

John

[Jim Becker]

One of the things I really like about ProClassic is how smoothly it goes on by hand. While it's clearly not "sprayed", it's still a great surface. I probably could have gotten it better with rolling the flat surfaces, but other surfaces in the house were not rolled, either. My kitchen "refresh" with the same product last summer was also brushed and looks great.

[Jim Becker]

Home improvement projects in an older home certainly add some, um...interesting challenges. While I take great pride that I built this door perfectly flat and square, the fact that the opening isn't perfectly flat and square brought a little "punishment" to the process. But I got it done. :) The "adjustments" will more or less disappear once everything has a fresh coat of paint or two applied. (The opening was out of level by almost 3/4" over 30" at the top; much less at the bottom where the brick floor is, but still out)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_8094_zpsq21svisu.jpg

More importantly, Tosca approves of the new door. :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/a-j-adopt/Woodworking/Interior-Door/IMG_8095_zpsfqgcpgde.jpg

[Von Bickley]

Great Looking Door....

[Mel Fulks]

Jim, if you had not done such a good job dealing with out of square you could have set up one of those old roadside " the gravity here flows sideways " attractions. Looks way to good for that now.

[Jim Becker]

I have a lot of "out of square" in this house...the oldest portion dates to the 1750s and this section is a 1950's era construction that's "moved a bit". :) I will say this...today my slider earned it's keep making some long, thin tapered cuts in thick material. ;)