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View Full Version : Need Advice -- Table Construction


Dennis McDonaugh
07-11-2016, 9:42 PM
I'm replacing the table in our motor home, it was a solid surface table top with a leaf. The original parts were all plywood with the solid surface bonded to the plywood substrate. The previous owner broke the leaf and had a new one made, but it didn't match the original material.

I'm making a new top out of solid cherry to match the existing cabinets. I pretty much ignore wood movement in things I build that are going in a climate controlled environment and haven't had any issues in 40 years of making things out of wood. However, the motor home goes from very hot and humid when not in use to cool and dry when we're traveling in it. I'm pretty sure movement is going to be an issue.

Here's a picture of the underside of the table. I'm eliminating the leaf so the table will just sit on top of the existing base which is attached to the wall with brackets and has one pedestal leg.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q320/bmcdonau/3F9B8684-274A-4B27-8941-8B5DA89179BB_zpsuvjornpm.jpg

The base is a 3/4" ply with a dado in it to guide the old top as it extended. The top had a couple long cleats screwed to the inside of the apron to capture the plywood base. I plan to use the same method to attach the new top.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q320/bmcdonau/4E77C75B-9C8F-497B-B4F6-13FFF6F14162_zpswv634pzn.jpg

I am thinking about gluing about 2/3 of the long apron sides to the bottom of the top. The grain would run the same direction in the top and the apron. Then, I'm planning to allow for movement of the top by putting grooves in the short apron and using metal tabs to hold it to the top. How does that sound?
Jerry Miner
07-11-2016, 10:08 PM
Doesn't sound good to me. When you glue the long aprons to the top, you are making them move with the top. The short apron won't move appreciably, so there will be stress at the long-to-short apron joint.

I would just use table clips or buttons. Easy Peazy and no worries about movement blowing things apart.

An alternative would be cleats with slotted holes, but IMHO the clips are easier.
Wayne Lomman
07-12-2016, 5:48 AM
I agree with Jerry 100%. Cheers
Dennis McDonaugh
07-12-2016, 7:22 AM
I have to have some way to anchor the apron solidly to the top at the back end to keep them from moving and I don't think table top clips will do the job since they only work from one side. Normally the aprons are secured to the top of the table legs and I don't have that structure here.
Lee Schierer
07-12-2016, 8:29 AM
I have to have some way to anchor the apron solidly to the top at the back end to keep them from moving and I don't think table top clips will do the job since they only work from one side. Normally the aprons are secured to the top of the table legs and I don't have that structure here.

Use some figure 8 fasteners instead340557
Robert Engel
07-12-2016, 8:32 AM
Yes, Jerry is exactly right.

+1 on the figure 8 fasteners.

Also, I would be concerned about the top cupping on that end with no apron.
I would put a breadboard end on it.
Jason Mikits
07-12-2016, 8:34 AM
Another way is to drill holes in the apron about 1/2 the depth with a forstner bit. Then all the way thru the apron about twice the diameter of the screw you're using and attach it with a pan head screw. This allows the screw to pivot with movement. It's how I've attached many tables. You could plug the holes, but I never do since they are underneath.
Dennis McDonaugh
07-12-2016, 1:32 PM
Use some figure 8 fasteners instead340557

That's a good idea Lee. Thanks
Dennis McDonaugh
07-12-2016, 1:33 PM
Yes, Jerry is exactly right.

+1 on the figure 8 fasteners.

Also, I would be concerned about the top cupping on that end with no apron.
I would put a breadboard end on it.

I'm concerned about the cupping too and a breadboard end is a good solution, just a lot more work than I was originally considering! Nothing's ever easy.
Dennis McDonaugh
07-12-2016, 1:46 PM
It would have been a lot easier to just rip out the whole table and build a new one, but I want the option to put the original table and leaf back.
Dennis McDonaugh
07-18-2016, 9:05 AM
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q320/bmcdonau/C24BD994-57D4-40C8-98B6-435A146CDEDC_zpsedilijjo.jpg

Thanks to your advice I should have a table that stays flat and provides years of service.

I added a breadboard on the end that doesn't have the apron so it ought to stay flat. The original extension mechanism, which I wanted to preserve, is a couple pieces of 3/4" plywood that slide back and forth. I wanted the top to sit flat on the plywood so I needed the top of the figure 8 fasteners to be flush with the bottom of the table. I ended up recessing the fasteners into the table top instead of the apron.