Calculating BF needed to build this dresser

[Kent Adams]

I need help calculating how to build this dresser, including 10% waste. Here is the dresser: http://www.drdimes.com/media/images/product/3076_DRDIMES_Three_Drawer_Bedside_Chest.jpg

The dimensions are: 30" high, 28" wide, 18" deep. Thanks in advance.

[Bruce Page]

Here's a good on-line BF calculator; http://extension.missouri.edu/scripts/explore/G05506.asp

[Kent Adams]

That calculator only gives 6bf? That can't be correct.

[Andrew Hughes]

That's a highly figured piece.If your really going after that look then finding a lumber yard with curly maple your starting place.
Bring your self a folding rule and pick out your boards like this.
These will be my sides
These will be my top
These will be my drawer fronts.
The smaller parts maybe cut out from your first tally.
Grabs some popler for your drawers at the same time it's good for acclimation.
Consider book matching for your sides and tops if you see thick boards with good figure.
This is my favorite method.
Good luck.

[Kent Adams]

Thanks Andrew. I think that will have to be the method I use. On the curly/flame/tiger maple, I'm having to resort to another wood as I can't source figured maple that pronounced locally without a lot of cathedral grain in the wood either. I plan on using a cheaper wood to make a mock up until I can source enough of this highly figured maple.

[John TenEyck]

If you ask nicely, I bet this guy can tell you exactly how much you will need: http://www.diamanwoodcrafters.com/photo_gallery/ch_5dr.html

John

It might help to mention my name.
(http://www.diamanwoodcrafters.com/photo_gallery/ch_5dr.html)

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Andrew...board feet works nice for basic stuff, but when you're going for a special look with special material, you have to hand-select the boards for what they provide to the end result. I've said it many times, choosing the material is the very first step of the finishing process! Yes, you might buy more "board feet" that way, but the end result will be kicked up substantially through careful matching, especially when you need to glue up boards for a table surface, etc. And left-over material isn't really "scrap"...much of it can be used to either enhance other projects or create smaller items of visual value.

Honestly, even when you're working with "less special" material, this is still a good method to use when planning out a project prior to milling. The more care you take with matching color and grain, the greater the payoff.

[johnny means]

10% waste?

[Matt Day]

Area by area is a good way to do it, as described.

If you want a true waste % I'd say it's more like 40-50% when you factor in milling rough cut lumber, board yield, and an oops here and there.

Regarding finding figured wood, check out sourcing it online instead of locally.

[Earl McLain]

I'm not in the same league as Andrew or Jim, but what they say sounds right. Looking at that dresser, the drawer fronts are not only highly figured, but they look like they are cut from 3 consecutive boards in the same tree (a flitch?). That kind of detail may not be "efficient", but it sure is drop-dead gorgeous!!

earl

[Lee Schierer]

I created a spreadsheet that I use to determine material requirements and costs. I look at each piece needed and make entries into my spreadsheet. It uses lookup tables to pick the right cost for materials and then it totals the amounts of each material. For example, a dresser top that is 18 x 42 if made from 1 x 5 boards would require 5 boards 42" long to be glued up to make the top. I would enter five pieces, 42" and identify the width and type of wood and the spreadsheet does the rest.340441

I'm sorry the spreadsheet doesn't show up better.

[Mike Cutler]

If you ask nicely, I bet this guy can tell you exactly how much you will need: http://www.diamanwoodcrafters.com/photo_gallery/ch_5dr.html

John

It might help to mention my name.
(http://www.diamanwoodcrafters.com/photo_gallery/ch_5dr.html)


I bet it would! ;)
That's some nice work John.

Kent
I would PM John. The chest you're looking to build is on his website. It's the three drawer Chippendale.
If you're going to go with highly figured wood like that, be prepared to buy much more than you need. It's more important to have enough that matches, than using a formula.
10% would be a low figure with wood like that.

[Jim Becker]

I'm not in the same league as Andrew or Jim, but what they say sounds right. Looking at that dresser, the drawer fronts are not only highly figured, but they look like they are cut from 3 consecutive boards in the same tree (a flitch?). That kind of detail may not be "efficient", but it sure is drop-dead gorgeous!!



Earl what you mention is actually extremely important. So often woodworking enthusiasts think primarily about the joinery and so forth and miss the important relationship that the material has to the end result. Even commercial producers miss the mark there...I really hate how so many very expensive, "custom" kitchens have an abundance of mis-matched lumber used for door and face frames, for example. The quality of the build is great, but it's spoiled by the lack of visual esthetics around the material used. While it's absolutely true that budgets for material can be tight for many woodworkers, some of that can be made up for by taking the time to hand-pick the material. Whether you're working with expressive curly cherry or with simple pine, the goal should be the same....material that matches in color and grain. Do that right and joinery virtually disappears or enhances figured displays.

--
Oh, and about "waste". There will always be some true waste with any project, but working with quality materials tends to mean less that goes into the trash or kindling pile because what's left over from the current project can be usable for future projects...more of the cutoffs will be usable if you pick your material carefully. And that actually saves money in the long run.

[Eugene Wigley]

Kent, if you are in Greensboro you may want to check out Wall Lumber. I bought some purple heart and maple from them in the past. They let me sort the lumber and select what I needed for the project.

Eugene

[John T Barker]

I calculated the maple to be about 24 BF without throwing in the mouldings and drawer blades. You'll need more in poplar for the bottom, interior drawer runners, back and drawer interiors. As others have mentioned this does little to help you plan out your piece. I would usually have an idea of each boards placement when I bought it since it doesn't help me to buy a 10" wide board to make a 6" wide drawer front. If you don't mind the trip there are a number of yards here in southeastern Pa. that sell good tiger maple. A fellow I used to work for (Louis Irion) ships and could give you the amount of lumber you need out of his head since his company made more than a few of those.

[John TenEyck]

Not my work, Mike. Dave Diamon, of Diaman Woodcrafters is the talented guy who made all that incredibly furniture.
John

[glenn bradley]

Once you have a rough figure add 10% for your prototype lumber. Poplar is a good choice around here as it is inexpensive and stable. Keep track of your actual parts requirements and this will allow you to be selective for your "show" material.

The actual amount of spoil has so many variables. For a pecan piece I was after the more 'salmon' colored portions so the spoil volume gets pretty high.

340467 . 340466

The pale portions are not waste however. They are used for drawer parts, internal framing and so forth. Your prototype will yield lots of good data prior to shopping for your "keeper" stock.