Got bored,had some scrap pine handy..

[steven c newman]

Made two panels to play with. Brought out the Stanley #45, a 3/16" match cutter, and the 3/16" plough cutter. Jointed one edge, more to read the grain. Set up for the tongue part of the job..
340192
Depth stop run all the way up, and out of the way, sliding stock sitting in the middle of the one cutter. Tried to set things up to cut right in the middle of the board...
340193
Had to make sure the fence cleared the vise, as well. Didn't do too badly, had it a hair deep. have to keep pulling shavings out...
340194
Ok, next. Removed the sliding stock, and the match cutter. Installed the 3/16" plough cutter and the fence. Cutter is a hair too skinny for both skates..
340195
I also had to set the depth stop. Ran this along the edge of the other plank......found out I was a hair off to one side. Adjust the fence a bit. Groove will hold the tongue..
340196
Well, I can do better, next time. Got to thinking.....I use a T & G joint for corner joints.....
340197
Didn't have to make much of an adjustment, and ploughed a groove....seemed to fit..
340198
Both boards do have a slight cup to them, just scraps..
340199
Me thinks I will like using this plane.....:D

[Glen Canaday]

I've been on the lookout for one of those. Prices can get pretty steep for complete units. I never look forward to rigging up weird stuff for cutting those grooves.

[Frederick Skelly]

Looks like fun Steve! I did some puttering myself yesterday.:)

[Allen Hunt]

Steven, I enjoyed your show and tell. Not bad for the first time and with out of true stock.

[steven c newman]

Was Watching Underhill the other day, and he was showing how one of these planes could do all the things a box full of molding planes could do. Scraps of pine, allow both the wooden plane and the 45 to do the same type of cut.

However...I do not have the No.55......yet, so...

There is one operation I think I can put the 45 to good use.....I use a dado to house the back on the drawers I make. maybe set things up to cut both that dado and a groove for the drawer's bottom to slide into. Would take two widths of cutters, and use the spurs for the dado, but not the groove. Stack all the parts, marked which joint goes where, set up the dado cut first, then do the grooves. Maybe cut the front's rebate and groove with this plane, as well?

Yep, going to be a fun plane to learn.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I have a Sargent 1080 I like a lot. It works very well for grooving and beading, and will do a good job with small rebates.

I have never gotten it to work that well for cross grain work though. The saw and router plane are still my go to for dados.

[steven c newman]

Next shoptime session, I may have to try a dado or two with this plane...IF I can get both spurs to rotate down.....otherwise, I'd have to do a couple saw cuts. Will post a few pictures, if I do any dados with this plane....

[Jim Koepke]

For me it seems to help to knife the sides of the dado before getting the #45 involved. This needs to be done every few passes to make for a clean cut.

Of course:

340241

jtk

[steven c newman]

Well, got the 45 set up for a 1/2" dado, like I would use for the back of a drawer. Used one of the scraps, to "stand in" as a side for a drawer. The spurs were taken out, rubbed around on an oil stone. Assembled back into the plane, with the sharp end down.
340262
Started out with both depth stops set..
340263
Didn't really need the left side's. It does help to keep the plane from tipping, IF you get down far enough far it to work...
So, I had a 1/2" wide cutter ( would have to look up the number) and set the depth, set the fence, Waxed the skates, then set the sliding skate in place. Everything tightened down..
340264
I drew the plane backwards a few times, as the spurs are a hair deeper than the cutter was. Had a little break-out on the end.....about normal for my drawer making....closer look?
340265
I usually "clip" the corners on my drawers, aid when I slide the drawers into the case. In this case, it helps prevent any "blow out" on the edges.

Although I do have a Stanley/Wards #78.....I might just dig out the #1 cutter, and set up as a fillister plane. Drawer fronts I usually do are 3/4 overlay. I would need a rebate out on the ends, and along the top edge of a "drawer front" practizing..maybe next time in the shop. Got bit in an eyelid over the weekend, seeing out of one eye right now....kind of hard to type, you know...

[steven c newman]

Well, since I also have a Stanley/Wards #78.....maybe I'll skip the fillister operation. Which plane would work better at rebates? The #45, or the #78?

[Jim Koepke]

Well, since I also have a Stanley/Wards #78.....maybe I'll skip the fillister operation. Which plane would work better at rebates? The #45, or the #78?

I like my Record #778 for rebates. I used to use the #45 a lot for this. I do not like the single fence rod on the #78 planes.

The #45 or #55 is better for stopped rebates.

jtk

[James Pallas]

I use a 45 often. It is used for dados, rabbets and beading for the most part. Here is a couple of pictures from recently.
Jim

[steven c newman]

I can see this plane making things a bit easier when building drawers. Used to use a router table to cut the grooves and dados. I might even use the beading cutters to round over the tops of the drawer's sides. Wonder IF it can do a bead around the edges of a drawer's front? Or, make a little bead else where, use the slitter to slice off the bead, then add the bead to the front of the drawer?

[Jim Koepke]

I can see this plane making things a bit easier when building drawers. Used to use a router table to cut the grooves and dados. I might even use the beading cutters to round over the tops of the drawer's sides. Wonder IF it can do a bead around the edges of a drawer's front? Or, make a little bead else where, use the slitter to slice off the bead, then add the bead to the front of the drawer?

Some of the Stanley #45 instruction sheets show how to do such things. If you use a beading cutter from different sides you can make dowel stock.

If the stock is slightly thicker than the bead it can make what is called cock beading, a narrow half bead that surrounds a door or drawer.

It is only limited by the user's imagination.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Hi Steven All of the beading on this piece, the edges, drawer dividers and panels were done with a 45. I know the photos aren't great but you can see the work.
Jim

[steven c newman]

Looks good to me.