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View Full Version : Drawer opening clearance top and bottom with Accuride slides



Charles Wade
06-14-2003, 1:41 AM
I am building a chest of drawers for a grandchild and am considering using Accuride 2132 drawer slides, 20" long, 3/4 extension. Clearance with the drawer opening is 1/2" on each side. What should I allow for vertical clearance (between drawer top and opening and between drawer bottom and opening). For example if the drawer sides are 7", how large an opening should I cut?

thanks.

Jamie Buxton
06-14-2003, 3:09 AM
Well. the Accuride slides don't care about top and bottom clearances. They only care about the 1/2" side clearances. So you get to make the height of the drawer anything you like. Me, I like to make the drawer sides come within a half inch or so of the top of the opening, so that it is difficult for things to escape over the sides.

Jim Becker
06-14-2003, 10:11 AM
I'll add to Jamie's comments that you really should have at least one set of your intended slides "in hand" before you cut anything...just to be sure. Just a little bit off may make for a very difficult "field re-design" of your project. (Been there...done that...)

Charles Wade
06-14-2003, 10:46 AM
Thanks for your comments- -good advice. Chuck

Jamie Buxton
06-14-2003, 3:47 PM
One more thought about these kinds of slides. The manufacturers usually have pretty tight tolerance on the 1/2" side space. I think the most common is 1/2",-0",+1/16". Some are only -0",+1/32". That means your drawer width and the carcass interior width need to be very exact. If that seems daunting, you're better off making the side space a little too large. You can always put shims between the slide and the carcass. However, if the side space somehow gets smaller than 1/2" anyplace in the cabinet, you're hosed.

Charles Wade
06-14-2003, 10:59 PM
Thanks. I've hit that problem in the past. chuck

Steve Clardy
06-15-2003, 1:28 PM
Originally posted by Jamie Buxton
One more thought about these kinds of slides. The manufacturers usually have pretty tight tolerance on the 1/2" side space. I think the most common is 1/2",-0",+1/16". Some are only -0",+1/32". That means your drawer width and the carcass interior width need to be very exact. If that seems daunting, you're better off making the side space a little too large. You can always put shims between the slide and the carcass. However, if the side space somehow gets smaller than 1/2" anyplace in the cabinet, you're hosed.

One way to fix the HOSED problem. When I get a drawer to snug, remove the drawer slides off of the drawer. Then setup your table saw to remove a 1/16" from one side of drawer. Set your blade height just barely above where the slide screws on to the side. This way you can screw the slide back on, and for the most part it covers up your screwup, freeing up the drawer to slide easy. Keep in mind if you have used brads to assemble the drawer, you need to use a nail set to set the nails in deeper so you won't be cutting into them. Been there, done that. Steve