Miter cuts with a router?

[Mike Trent]

First: I'm new to woodworking, so please excuse a stupid question.

I've had a heck of a time trying to get 45* cuts to make frames. Have learned a lot here about tuning tables saws, installing PALS, using a shooting board, etc. Was looking at router bits online today, and noticed a 22.5* Rockler 1.125" tall chamfer bit that might cut the angles I need to make a flag display case for Dad's burial flag. He left behind a shop full of wood stock, machines and tools, but isn't around to answer my very basic questions.

So, is it practical to use a router table w/fence plus an angle-cutting bit (22.5* or 45* or whatever), to make frame joints? If so, seems easier than fiddling with TS, miter saws, shooting boards, etc.

Thanks for any advice. Kinda wish SMC had a separate forum called "Idiot Newbie Questions" -- after reading the other posts in this forum, I am in awe of the talent and knowledge here!

Mike

[Jerry Miner]

I don't think you'll find a 22.5 deg. chamfer bit very useful for this.

1. It cuts 22.5 deg. from vertical, not from horizontal, so you'd have to run the stock vertically on the router table.

2. A cutter height of 1.125" would only cut a complete 22.5 deg. miter on thin stock (+/- 7/16") --- (This bit is really designed for 22.5 deg. bevel cuts, like you would need for an octagonal box)

A practical approach to this project can be found here:

Flag Case (http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/making-memorial-flag-case/)

HTH

[Frederick Skelly]

Welcome to the Creek Mike! Most folks will be patient and helpful to "newbies", so don't hesitate to ask. It's always a good idea to use our search function first, just in case your question is a common one. But no harm if you don't. We'll try to help.

I cant advise on using a router to do this, so I'll defer to someone who can.

Sorry to hear about your Dad.

Fred

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, I can't think of a good way to do it with a router. The procedure outlined in the link Jerry posted is a good way to go. If you don't have the exact equipment setups that the guy uses, you will have to work out how to improvise with what you have. I don't have a tenon set up as shown, so I would have to do this part of the operation with the mitre saw. Sorry to hear how you have come by your equipment. I think you will find many of us inherited tools etc. I have my grandfathers vise and a few of my father's hand tools. Cheers.

[Eric Schmid]

You can make these cuts on a table saw or miter saw with the proper set up. It sounds like you are using a table saw now?

By what method are you trying to make the cuts? Sled, miter gage, beveled blade, or..?

I assume you have a miter gauge available there? One option: add a piece of flat material to the face to provide a longer reference surface. Tweak the adjustment until you can get as close to 45 degrees as possible without driving yourself crazy.

Make your first cut on each end (4 cuts if making a square) of your material. On one board measure the length and make a cut equal to the length of one side; with the piece clamped to the reference fence. Holding material for miter cuts with hand pressure will result in inconsistent results. Cut a small piece of scrap at the miter angle (45) and clamp this to your reference fence on the miter gauge. Use the carefully cut piece above to set the distance for the stop block.

Now make the remaining three cuts using the stop block as a measuring rule. All sides should now be equal, but they only equal 360 degrees (square) if each angle is 45 degrees.

Likely you will be off by a small amount. You can adjust by dividing the error by four and cutting one end of each piece again or make the adjustment at one of the four joints by adjusting two ends.

I would not try to adjust the miter gauge at this point. Get some brass shims or use tape applied to the fence to make the adjustment.

Making a miter sled fixed at a 45 degree angle will take a little longer but, once fine tuned, will provide repeatable results for future projects. You can do the same procedure on a miter saw.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I think if you're having the sorts of alignment/set-up problems that are preventing you from getting tight miters on a table saw, you won't find it any easier with a router - you still have similar set-up issues that must be addressed on the router/router table (for instance, the stock needs to be square, the router bit needs to be perpendicular to the table, the table needs to be flat, etc).

Plastic drafting triangles can be bought for VERY cheap and are very accurate. I'd suggest getting some big ones and tinkering with table saw set up until you get it right.

[Stan Calow]

Mike for a one-time project like this where you only need to make a couple of cuts, I'd do it by hand with a miter-box and handsaw. Cutting narrow frame-sized pieces on power tools has lots of opportunity for unplanned movement during the cut. My opinion anyway.

[Jerry Miner]

If you don't have a tenon jig, you can make one out of three pieces of wood. Be careful to keep any fasteners out of the path of travel of the blade.

Make some test cuts on scrap to fine-tune the blade angle.

339730

(If your blade tilts the other way, move the fence and jig to the other side)