Spokeshaves

[Adam Stevens2]

Yes, I know, search function - however, I am interested in general opinions and information about what you all have in your shop and what you use them for. I'm interested in getting a spokeshave for 'general spokeshave-y work', but there seem to be a million different kinds. So I thought it might be interesting to get a more general overview from those of you who use them regularly and what might be the best options for an all-purpose type of spokeshave to get started with. All of the threads I have found seem to be pretty specific about a particular item or genre of spokeshave, so that's my justification for starting a new thread.

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Adam,

Are you thinking of used or new?

For flat and convex work I like my old Stanley #51. That is the one with the gull wing handles. I also have a #52 with the straight handles and a #63 with the curved sole for working concave surfaces.

Often spoke shaves need a bit of tuning. I have even found that with new ones. One hassle with the old ones you may pay as much for a replacement blade as you do for a spokeshave.

Here is something I wrote awhile back about my spokeshaves and a couple to be avoided:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?153938-Just-A-Whisker-on-Shaves

jtk

[Adam Stevens2]

I'd probably prefer new - I'd imagine that would involve minimal fettling compared to a used tool, and I am finding that I'd much rather make something than make my tools behave, as some early tool purchases have shown.

[Mike Henderson]

The LN Boggs is a great spokeshave (flat) but is intended for fine cuts. You can get an older Stanley spokeshave and set it up for coarse work.

I have quite a number of spokeshaves - I got into buying them some time back - but I don't use most of them. The LN is my favorite.

Mike

[Here are the spokeshaves I have. Incidentally, LV makes a really nice tool roll for spokeshaves]
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[David Bassett]

I recently picked up a Veritas Low-Angle Spokeshave (http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=44834&cat=1,50230&ap=1) for "general spokeshave-y work" in a recent Free Shipping sale based on a comment here. It seemed like it would be a good general purpose model. I haven't really used it yet, but it clearly has the build quality we expect from Veritas and won't need any fettling beyond a quick blade honing and getting the depth set to the project.

[Jim Koepke]

I'd probably prefer new - I'd imagine that would involve minimal fettling compared to a used tool

The consideration then is if you like the more traditional spoke shave like David mentions or if you would like something with more of a very short plane sole like the Boggs Mike mentions.

Often used tools have been well fettled by a previous owner.

Being in Atlanta you might want to head over to Highland Woodworking and see what they have.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

I have a Stanley 151 and a Veritas round sole one. I use the 151 the most, as it will even work concave surfaces unless it's a very small radius. I use them mostly for roundover/bullnose edges or to clean up/fine tune curved work from the coping or jig saw like this guitar stand.

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[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

I recently researched spokeshaves and most advice seemed to sum up as: get a flat spokeshave. I ended up getting the Veritas flat spokeshave. Within a week of getting it, I saw several recommendations and listened to a couple podcasts that were very high on the Veritas low angle spokeshave that was linked by David. I haven't used one but it seems designed to be multi purpose and spokeshave newb friendly.

[Prashun Patel]

Spokeshave blades can be small. So make sure you are comfortable sharpening it. Smaller blades may not fit in some honing jigs. For that reason, I would get a slightly larger, flat bottomed one to start. Also, get one with knob adjusters. These features will make it easier to learn on.

Personally, I find spokeshaves easy to rehab. The blades are also cheaper to replace than planes. So, I wouldn't be afraid to buy a used Stanley 151.

But, if you don't want any guess work, then a good value is the Veritas flat bottomed spokeshave. ( I haven't tried the low angle one).

[Phil Mueller]

This has been posted before, but Paul Sellers has a video on making a spokeshave blade sharpening jig. I made one and it works very well.
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[Tim Bridge]

Is a spokeshave a push or pull tool?
I have used it as a pull tool, but in the videos that I have seen they were used as a push tool.

I don't think it would make a difference as long as it works.

[Robert Engel]

Flat and convex. LV. Dream to use. Love 'em.

I've tried to use Kunz either I'm a dummy or its a POJ (probably the former).

[Mike Holbrook]

Flat soled shaves can do most jobs but may not be the best at curved surfaces. However, shaves with round soles are much harder to learn to use than tools with flat or curved soles. Mastering a round shave involves learning to adjust the angle of cut/bite as the work is being done, which can be harder than it sounds. Actually the soles of many shaves are at some small angle to the blade. A slightly curved sole can be very versatile, round or major curved soles can be hard to master.

Highland carries: the LN\Boggs Spokeshaves, the LV LA shave, Kunz and Hock kits and blades. The smaller LN shave may require work on the mouth to get it to pass shavings, mine did. Be aware that these shaves have tight mouths, designed more for final work than removing larger amounts of wood.

My favorite spokeshaves come from Wood Joy Tools. Glenn makes quite a variety at reasonable prices, especially for hand made wood & brass tools with superior woods & metals. Glenn even hand makes his own blades. Just about all of Glenn's tools have adjustments for raising and lowering the blade, some even have an adjustment for opening and closing the mouth. Glenn uses small hex screws for adjusting that are not in the way when the shaves are being used.

I like Glenn's "Big Spokeshave" with a whopping 6 1/2" blade (5" cutting surface). A specialized shave for hogging off larger amounts of wood with more precision than a drawknife. I probably use my "Livingston Spokeshave" the most. The Livingston is: very sturdy, easy to adjust, can handle large or small shavings, medium sized 3" blade, three way adjustment. This shave allows one to move the blade up/down and in & out too, without moving the sole of the shave. A very unique innovative design which translates into a superior tool IMHO. Glenn's "# 85 Razor's Edge" allows three way adjustment but the sole moves to adjust the mouth.
"The #85 was the largest of the STANLEY series of wood body, low angle, RAZOR’S EDGE spoke shaves. While our new tool takes advantage of the best features of this very desirable old shave, it improves on the materials and design."
Glenn offers replacement blades and kits for making your own shave too.

The blades on Wood Joy spokeshaves can easily be removed from the shave. The owner then has a simple metal rectangular blade, unless it is a round shave, that is easy to sharpen. All the ones I have, have hollow ground, very hard, A2 blades that are a pleasure to sharpen & use. Wood Joy offers other well made tools too, check them out.

Adam,
I live in Milton, GA-Metro Atlanta. If you would like to try out a few spokeshaves before deciding what you might want to order. I can sit you down at my renovated shave horse, converted a Tim Manney bodger type shave horse to a dumbhead, using Peter Galbert's newest design. You could try a few out. I have Wood Joys, LN/Boggs and several renovated shaves. PM me if you are interested.

Tim,
Regarding whether to push or pull the tool. Many people pull theirs. I change between pushing & pulling according to grain direction. Glenn at Wood Joy suggests that his shaves should normally be pushed. What works for a given individual usually has to do with the type shave they own and specifically how they grip it. Peter Galbert has a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0Nk4YtjJ4Q) on how to use his travisher (curved body spokeshave) in which he demonstrates how he believes a device like his should be gripped. YMMV

[Christian Thompson]

I have a stanley 63 (round bottom) and 64 (flat). These days I've been using the 64 a lot for various smoothing of curved surface tasks. Also comes in handy when building random things for the kids like (really rough / quick and dirty) wooden swords and airplanes.

I haven't gotten much use out of the 63 - probably mainly because I haven't mastered it. For large-ish radius concave surfaces the 64 works fine. I have get into a pretty tight curve in order for the 63 to work at all for me.

If I had to do it over again I'd get a nicer, maybe bigger shave with an adjustment mechanism. But I've gotten pretty good at manually adjusting the shaves with hammer taps. The key (as with most of this stuff) is that they work a lot better when they are really sharp...

As for the push-pull debate. I favor pushing, but pull when the situation / angle / convenience calls for it.

[Luke Dupont]

I do a lot of shaping work and small projects, so the spokeshave is one of my go-to tools. I love it.

You could make one yourself. It's actually not very difficult. I made this kind of crude, but very functional one using a woodriver spokeshave blade I found on Amazon:

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Basically, it's just a wedge undercut above/behind the blade, and the blade is inset so it sits flush. Take a few shavings from the sole until you just start to get a shaving, and then if you want a thicker shaving, just shim the blade with a few pieces of paper.

It works wonderful.

I would advise against buying the cheap, modern stanley spokeshaves. I bought one, and even after a ton of work, it only sort of functions well. The little crude one I made out performs it in every way. So, if you're going to buy one, definitely follow some of the recommendations here and get one of decent quality.

Note: I don't find these blades to be difficult to sharpen, but I do sharpen them differently than my normal procedure. I usually sharpen freehand with a very slight camber, not worrying too much about angle. For these, I maintain a flat bevel and use that as my guide, akin to how Japanese tools are usually sharpened, as it would be far too tricky if any kind of convex geometry were introduced with such a small blade. Unless, that is, you secure the blade and put the stone to it; that can work, and you wouldn't need to worry much about geometry. As with anything, experience and experimentation will find you the method that works for you.

[Luke Dupont]

Is a spokeshave a push or pull tool?
I have used it as a pull tool, but in the videos that I have seen they were used as a push tool.

I don't think it would make a difference as long as it works.

It's both. You'll find it easier to pull in some situations, and easier to push in others. Plus, it's convenient to just change from one to the other where the grain reverses on you.

[steven c newman]

The round and curved parts of that rocking I just finished? Roughed out with a drawknife.....refined with a spokeshave...seemed to do just fine..
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USED to have a double bladed one,...each profile would get in the way of the other. Nowadays, just three flat soled ones.....Stanley 64, Stanley Defiance, S. Smith & Sons flat sole ( the double one was also a S&S) Mainly I will just pull them along.
Other than sharpening the cutter, and setting it to a depth that works....there really isn't much to fettle. Maybe stone the soles a bit?

[lowell holmes]

I recommend the following.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=49142&cat=1,50230

I got rid of my Stanley shaves.

I also have wooden shaves that I use a lot.

http://www.woodjoytools.com/spokeshaves/

[steven c newman]

Only two of my three are stanleys, the third is a horse of a different colour. Have no time to waste, waiting by a mailbox on something that costs way more than the three I already have. These were very simple to set up, cutters were easy to sharpen back up, as they were hardly even used. They are simple to use, a tap to change the depth setting is all I need to do. Once I get it set, a slight turn of the screw to tighten up, and it stays set. Not sure what is so "special" about those new ones, prefer ones that have already proved their worth.
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One of the three I have.....

[lowell holmes]

I had different experience with Stanley spoke shaves. I found the space in the mouth of the shaves to be excessive. I could not get the thin translucent shavings because of that spacing.
I was at a class and one of the participants brought his own spoke shave. It was a Veritas. I tried it out, and the shavings were instantly translucent and the surface of the wood was extremely smooth.

I now have three Veritas shaves, a low angle and a standard. They both do really well, whispy shavings, no chip out on the surface left. I also have a wooden spoke shave I use a lot. I highly recommend
their Cast Round Spokeshave. It is a real joy to use. worth every penny.

[Derek Cohen]

Yes, I know, search function - however, I am interested in general opinions and information about what you all have in your shop and what you use them for. I'm interested in getting a spokeshave for 'general spokeshave-y work', but there seem to be a million different kinds. So I thought it might be interesting to get a more general overview from those of you who use them regularly and what might be the best options for an all-purpose type of spokeshave to get started with. All of the threads I have found seem to be pretty specific about a particular item or genre of spokeshave, so that's my justification for starting a new thread.

Hi Adam

With regard type, I prefer spokeshaves without adjusters, as these feel less top-heavy. My collection is a mix of old and new, wood and steel.

It is useful to have a spokeshave that can take a deepish cut. Think of this as a jack plane. I tend to go to a Stanley #53, which has an adjustable mouth that can be opened wide, or a Stanley #51.

Stanley #53 ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Spokeshaves%20and%20Drawknives/Stanley53.jpg

For work on interlocked grain (something I live with), the high angle HNT Gordon shaves are excellent. Mine are the old style (wedge rather than lever cap) ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Spokeshaves%20and%20Drawknives/HNTGordon1.jpg

Mostly I use Boggs spokeshaves when it comes to finishing. I like their fine cut and balance. I have all three - flat, round and convex. The small Veritas Preston round is another in this group. (Note: round bottom spokeshaves are trickier to use than flat bottomed spokeshaves).

For end grain and straight grain, especially softer woods,, the Lee Valley low angle is great. Here it is with a Stanley #84 ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Spokeshaves%20and%20Drawknives/Stanley-spokeshave2_zpsm2m2yoj0.jpg

With the earlier mention of the Stanley #85 (large spokeshave), here it is with the #84 (both were delightful gifts to me quite recently, so I cannot comment on them in use as yet)...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Spokeshaves%20and%20Drawknives/Stanley-spokeshave1_zpsfqxhig1x.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

You are not supposed to get "see-through" shavings with a spokeshave......as most spokes are for shaping a part, or removing other tool's marks ( like from a drawknife)

Maybe they needed a little more time on the stones? The treads on that rocker I made were cleaned and smoothed up with the Seymour Smith & Sons flat soled shave.....zero chatter. I was cleaning off bandsaw marks.....didn't have a bit of problems....maybe it is more about the user, than the tool?

[Jim Koepke]

You are not supposed to get "see-through" shavings with a spokeshave.

Then I must be doing something wrong. I have three flat bottomed spokeshaves. One is set up for heavy stock removal. One is set for medium stock removal and one is set for very light shavings.

I like the blade set up for an even cutting across the width. Often the optimum stroke seems to be a 'slide' stroke. This is the shave starting at one side of the blade and the shave being moved across the work while simultaneously being pulled with the grain of the work. It produces a kind of slicing motion.

Also sometimes around curves with the piece in a vise, one end of the shave is held against the bench like a hinge knuckle and the other end is pulled through an arc.

I find it fairly simple to set the blade with a small mallet against the blade or the handles for adjustment.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Some of us do require translucent shavings on something like rocking chair back splats.
I do a lot of shaping with spoke shaves as well as hand planes.
One chair I built had two that were opposite hand, curved backward, and had opposite hand wind (twist).
I assure you that the spoke shaves took translucent shavings while working them. I could not have done those with the Stanley.

The way we individually use our tools, I think, precludes making blanket statements about how tools should be used.

[Mike Holbrook]

With the wide variety of spokeshaves and travishers out there, there are designs to cover many needs and features which may or may not benefit a given user:
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Shaves with a few tool handles in the works.

The shave at the top, Wood Joy Big Shave (above the ruler), with it's large size and wide mouth works well for removing large amounts of wood. The shave just below the ruler is a Wood Joy Livingston that has a blade height and mouth adjustment, which makes it very versatile. The bottom shave is for considerably more refined work than the top two. The "shave" at the top or left side is a travisher for working the recessed areas in chair seats. The curved metal shave on the opposite side is a cobblers shave, which also works well in the deeper recessed areas in seats.

[Mark Fisher]

Years ago, my Dad bought me a Conover spokeshave which is a very traditional low angle shave with some nice adjustment features. It may be my ineptitude, but I have a terrible time getting it to cut decently. I'm signed up for a chair class in August and asked the instructor what to buy and he suggested the Boggs shave with the curved bottom and one with a straight bottom. I went to a LN event and tried both and didn't bother getting the flat soled one. The curved one is so easy to use on curves or flats. It is also very, very easy to adjust.....which I would have never guessed looking at it. Maybe I'll get to the class and decide to add to my collection, but the curved bottom Boggs shave may be the only one I'll ever need.

[Adam Stevens2]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I must say that I am becoming familiar with the Woodjoy site, but the number of choices is a tad overwhelming. I guess I need to think about what sort of work I want one for. Right now it's more for shaping small curves in boxes or similar, I don't think I am quite ready to tackle chair-making. I'm also wondering if I shouldn't look at rasps...somebody keep my wallet safe!

[Mike Holbrook]

If you want to get serious with a spokeshave one of these may help:
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This was originally a shave made by Tom Donahey. I rebuilt it to incorporate features Peter Galbert outlines in his book "Chairmaker's Notebook". Next it will get rubber or leather pads on the jaws. Then the swing arm will be rebuilt to incorporate Pete's fast adjustment system. I tried to make most of the parts replaceable, just in case I decide something else needs to be tweaked.

[Allen Hunt]

I emailed Woodjoy for a recommendation for a good all around spokeshave and the owner recommended the 85. The 85 has an adjustable mouth. I bought one and I am impressed with the quality of the tool, but I haven't used it as I just received it. Garrett Hack likes likes the Stanley 53 for its adjust-ability, but I've read that a little file work to flatten the bed of the iron goes a long way in making a 53 work as intended. There is a blog post showing pictures of this tuning process somewhere on the web.

[lowell holmes]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I must say that I am becoming familiar with the Woodjoy site, but the number of choices is a tad overwhelming. I guess I need to think about what sort of work I want one for. Right now it's more for shaping small curves in boxes or similar, I don't think I am quite ready to tackle chair-making. I'm also wondering if I shouldn't look at rasps...somebody keep my wallet safe!

I've built several rocking chairs. Google "Brazos Rocker". I use spoke shaves. Some may shape with rasps, but I detest them. (I have three of them)
A good rasp costs as much as a spoke shave any way.

[Luke Dupont]

I've built several rocking chairs. Google "Brazos Rocker". I use spoke shaves. Some may shape with rasps, but I detest them. (I have three of them)
A good rasp costs as much as a spoke shave any way.

Spoke shaves are far quicker in general. I see the rasp as a tool to go into localized areas and work, whereas the spokeshave can take broad strokes over large areas, but can't always get into certain nooks and crannies (where a rasp then becomes useful). A scraper can also do a surprising amount of shaping, though. And for rough shaping, a drawknife, or even a hatchet is wonderful to have.

I would spring for the spokeshave first, though. It's generally more useful, and less easily replicated (ie, you can use coarse sandpaper wrapped around something in liu of a rasp).

[lowell holmes]

[QUOTE=Luke Dupont;2578262]

I would spring for the spokeshave first, though. It's generally more useful, and less easily replicated

I suggest item A first. It's the model that sold me on their spoke shaves.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=49142&cat=1,50230

[lowell holmes]

Also, I use a sharp bench chisel instead of a rasp for the corners and such that can't be reached with a spoke shave.

[Luke Dupont]

Also, I use a sharp bench chisel instead of a rasp for the corners and such that can't be reached with a spoke shave.

That's a good point. I usually use a chisel too.

To be honest, I kind of share your hatred for rasps. I much prefer cutting tools. They're both quicker and more versatile. I used to try doing far too much of my shaping with rasps and files when I first started woodworking, whereas now, I do almost all of the work with a cutting tool of some description; namely chisels and spokeshaves. A rasp is pretty handy when shaping endgrain, though; which is probably the place I use it the most.

[Mike Holbrook]

You might want to consider Iwasaki "carving files". Carving files is in quotes because Highland Woodworking use to list these tools as rasps, but apparently gave them their own designation sometime fairly recently. They are more of a float than a rasp. They have long curved edges instead of individually made random teeth like the expensive rasps have. They work more like a plane, chisel or scraper than a rasp.

The long edges remove wood in more of a shaving like configuration than the sawdust like residue left by most rasps. Sort of like using a bunch of small scrapers all at once. The curved edges are hardened, like Japanese saw teeth often are. The edges stay sharp for a long time. I have used mine for years and they still seem to work about the same. They are available in all sorts of shapes and sizes at a fraction of the cost of the expensive rasps. I have an assortment of sizes and shapes and use them all the time. Planes and other cutting tools leave surfaces with sharp edges that these small float like tools are very good at dulling and shaping into more precise or rounded shapes.

[Tony Shea]

My favorite spokeshave is the LN small bronze round sole. I have a lot of Stanley's a LN flat bottomed Boggs, a LV curved sole, the LN flat and curved sole small bronze spokeshaves. The one I reach for the most is the curved sole bronze LN. This handles all the heavier cuts as well as most of the fine cuts. Oddly enough I am so comfortable handling this shave I tend to use it on flat surfaces just as much as curved surfaces. Something about it is just so nice in use. I highly recommend these little LN spokeshaves. That is not to say the LN Boggs isn't a real beauty and handles fine cuts like no other shave I own.

[allen long]

Speaking of the small LN bronze spokeshave, does anyone know how the LV small Preston reproduction compares? My son bought me the LV version, and no amount of fettling seams to yield decent results. Can't get it to not chatter. I have a miller's falls cigar shave that I was able to rehab and it works great! I would have thought it would have been the most difficult shave to sharpen and adjust. I can also vouch for the Veritas full size shaves as excellent and easy to set up. I tried the low angle LV and never got the hang of it. That was when I was just diving into the hand tool rabbit hole and did not have a clue at proper sharpening. It might be different now. However, I still cannot get the small LV shave to work well (could be operator error )

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Allen

I wrote a review of the LV small round spokeshave here ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVCastRoundSpokeshave.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Allen

I wrote a review of the LV small round spokeshave here ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/LVCastRoundSpokeshave.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

My recollection is we both purchased one of these at about the same time. Mine needed a little fettling of the bedding. Shavings would clog under the blade and interfere with its use. With a touch of fettling it has performed very well. Last time the blade needed sharpening a bit more filing was done on the high spots of the bed. It has improved a bit more. The blade holds an edge well enough that it will be awhile before the next time any more adjustments are attempted.

My Stanley #63 seems to be a little more adept in the tighter curves.

I have been looking at it with your fettling in mind. I was thinking a touch of metal could be removed to make it able to work in tighter curves.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jim

Mine also chattered and required fettling. The bed was not co-planer. The fix was straight forward, and I demonstrated this in the article. The spokeshave turned into a good user for tight curves. Nevertheless, this is not a beginner's spokeshave.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

Actually, spoke shaves are kind of like rabbits. They have a way of rapidly multiplying. I have two of these and use them often.
I don't know where to get them, i've had mine for years. I think Lee Valley had them.


http://tomsworkbench.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/wooden_spokeshave.jpg

[allen long]

Many thanks Jim & Derek. I'll take another look. My issue is I believe I already followed Derek's advice on the fettling (but I may have missed something). When I first received the shave, I immediately saw the same issues to resolve before reading Derek's most excellent review. So, it may just be operator error on my part.

The big thing that surprised me was that I was able to master the rehab and use of the cigar shave but not this bad boy.

Many Kind Regards . . . . Allen

[lowell holmes]

Mine worked right out of the box, properly set it takes fine translucent shavings with no chatter.

[Adam Stevens2]

I would spring for the spokeshave first, though. It's generally more useful, and less easily replicated

I suggest item A first. It's the model that sold me on their spoke shaves.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=49142&cat=1,50230

I ordered this yesterday. Excited to give it a run in a few days, I already have plans for it.

[lowell holmes]

This shave works when you take almost translucent shavings. Sharpen it when you get, play with it until you get the feal for it. You may need to rotate the shave a bit if the shavings are not coming off to suit you.
It is a round bottom. I haven't found that to be an issue. Rotate and cant until you find the sweet spot. After that, it's entertaining to use.

I sometimes build rocking chairs and I use it more than I thought I would. I have several shaves I use.

[steven c newman]

Was going to suggest looking for a Millers Falls #2 spokeshave. Adjustable mouth, has an insert that can change how rounded the sole is (4 different settings), cutter is 2" wide. Rosewood handles, as well. Might want to look it up, sometime.

[Jim Ritter]

Here is what Steven was referring to. I just got one yesterday.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/image_zpse5mu4iup.jpeg

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/image_zpsq2o0twat.jpeg

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/image_zpssgpwagp5.jpeg

Jim

[allen long]

I give up. I tried futzing with the LV and honing the blade again. While I can marginally use it without chatter, it still doesn't feel good to use. Even if I were to get it to work just right, I am so fed up with jacking around with it I will never like it now.

[Jim Ritter]

Sorry to hear that Allen. But I know just how you feel.
Jim

[Mike Holbrook]

Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen both make copies of the old Preston small shave with curved handles. I suspect both need a little/or more work to get them working well, my LN did. Spokeshaves with curved rests and or blades are typically harder to use than those with "flat" rests. Although most shaves, even the flat ones, usually are angled to some extent in relationship to the blade. I think LN makes the mouth on their shave overly tight to reduce chatter.

You might try pushing at an angle to the work vs pulling. These tools are unruly when they meet rising grain or wobble.

[lowell holmes]

I have the Lee Valley spoke shave you mentioned. After I found the sweet spot on the shave, I have absolutely no issues with it.

If I need to take some wood off for fit up, it does great with translucent long shavings. It's good for rounding edges as well.

It is one of my go to shaves.

[steven c newman]

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Curls were piling up on the shave. Still, it was a bit more finese than these...
340189
rounding 2"x 2" x 48" posts. These used to be square....
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used both the knives, and the spokeshave to fair the curve,,,

[Tony Shea]

I honestly can't say enough good things about the bronze LN shaves. They literally just dont chatter at all and they can be set to take heavy cuts when need be. I can easily fair a curve with these small shaves where other shaves end up chattering on me. The last picture that steven posted is what I used to struggle with, all those small little isolated humps. After mastering these little shaves my curves have become much more fair and smooth. I rarely have to scrape the surface now a days with a nice sharp blade. Working to a line is also a big help to avoid all those small hills and valleys steven.

[steven c newman]

Couple more photos (hide your eyes, Mabel, tain't no bronze here) of the few I have..
340358
Mouth is actually fairly tight, too..
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Seems to work well enough for what I do..
Not sure IF you can see the line on the side of that rocker....may have already reached it....