How To Place Outlets In Fireplace Built-ins?

[Eddie Ormerod]

I am getting ready to make my first built ins around a fireplace. I planned on making the carcasses about 1/2" less deep than the actual measurement so I know they will fit behind the mantle which wraps around 2 corners. The owner wants the 2 wall outlets and cable outlet to be installed on the back of the units. Two questions:
1. How do I find the exact spots for the outlets on the back of the units without screwing it up?
2. How can I put the outlets on the back if they're going to be 1/2" off the wall?


Eddie

[Adam Herman]

measure twice is the only thing i can think of for location, as long as you are within about 1/4 in the plate will cover. you can get a box extension at the borg to make up the extra 1/2 in, or just get longer screws for the outlets. the outlet will be perfectly stable once the cover plate is on, even with longer screws. we opted for replacing the screws on our backsplash as the extensions would have been too thick.

[Joe Jensen]

I helped my dad do a rough-in for his and the unit had location dimensions. I'd say you really want to see the instructions for the fireplace before locating the outlets.

[Jamie Buxton]

There are box extenders. They screw to the existing box, and extend the front face of the box forward. Some you install before the cabinetry. Others have a flange, and you install them after the cabinet goes in. Here's a link to a flanged one -- http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1294722 . It isn't obvious from the pic, but the extender slips inside the existing box, so the extender adapts to a wide range of cabinetry thickness.

[Jim Becker]

Measure from a single reference point that can be on both the wall and the unit you will be installing, accounting for any scribing work required, etc.

[Tom M King]

I don't know if these will work for that or not: http://www.toolbarn.com/calculatedindustries-8105.html?utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=CPCS+-+Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=gyNm2noI_pcrid_90615792974_pkw_PLA_pmt _b_pdv_c_

[Eddie Ormerod]

Awesome. Thanks for the answers. I wonder if the electrical box locator will work with 1/4" bead board?

[Tom M King]

I would think it would since it works with 1/2" drywall. I don't personally have them, but do use rare-earth magnets for locating things sometimes.

Picture from my "chimney flashing" web page>>

http://historic-house-restoration.com/images/CIMG1759.JPG

[Lee Schierer]

There are box extenders. They screw to the existing box, and extend the front face of the box forward. Some you install before the cabinetry. Others have a flange, and you install them after the cabinet goes in. Here's a link to a flanged one -- http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1294722 . It isn't obvious from the pic, but the extender slips inside the existing box, so the extender adapts to a wide range of cabinetry thickness.

Box extenders are the only safe way to go. Do not simply buy longer screws and leave the sides exposed outside of an approved electrical box. Without proper support you run the risk of the receptacle moving every time something is plugged in or unplugged which may loosen the connections or fatigue the wiring so that it fails and creates a fire hazard.

[Dan Rude]

I have made my own box extenders out of the common plastic boxes by cutting off the back of them. I then use a longer screw to attach the box. This way I can custom make the extension for a few cents. Did it for a friend who insulated the inside of the house and drywall, the taper just sealed them in with mud. Dan

[Jerry Miner]

I've been building and installing cabinets for about 40 years. I've handled this situation a lot of ways. My current favorite method for locating electrical boxes is to measure close, cut a 1" or so hole from the back at the approximate center of box, install the cabinet, then use a Roto-Zip (with a "Saber-cut" bit made for wood) to enlarge the hole as needed. This way you can dial in the box profile exactly, even if the cabinet ends up a little off of the theoretical location. (I use the Roto-Zip for the initial hole,too).

Agree with the use of box extensions as described above.

[Martin Wasner]

You're not an electrician. Cut the hole, that's it. It's somebody else's problem.

I'm sick off telling contractors I'm not an electrician, I'm not a plumber, I'm not a carpet guy, I'm not an hvac guy. My skills aren't in those areas, and neither is my insurance. How about asking those tradesman to build you a cabinet and see what kind of blank stare you get.

[Wayne Lomman]

I 100% agree with Martin. Install the cabinet as Jerry says and the rest is the electrician's problem. I always inform the customer up front that any other trades must be hired by the customer. I am happy to help co-ordinate and work in with the other trades but I will not be a party to electrician, plumber etc contracts. That is the customer's problem. Cheers