Are table saw designs standardized?

[Minh Tran]

I bought a contractor table saw from sears and it was long after the purchase that I discovered that the table saw top had design features that were not standard of other table saws.

The saw can be seen here: http://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-10-table-saw-with-laser-trac-reg-21807

It had the HP to do the cutting but the laser-track is a gimmick (I didn't know any better). The worst part is that the fence doesn't lock parallel to the blade and there isn't much I can do to adjust the blade if it is ever a little bit out of square with respect to the table top. Also, the table top does not have a flat face with holes so that I can install a new fencing system (It's designed for that particular rip fence, which sucks in the first place). I don't have money for another table saw but I'm saving up for a new one.

In my next purchase, I would like a table saw that not only cuts well but supports the different after-market attachments (so I don't find myself SOL if the factory made attachments aren't precise). What table saws features should I look for?

[Erik Loza]

Aside from mitre channel size and
arbor size, no.

Erik

[Andy Giddings]

Minh, there are a number of threads in this forum about the best saw to get so I'd recommend searching and reading as much as you can before narrowing down the type of saw that would suit you. Asking what table saw features you should look for is a very broad question unless you are able to narrow it down somewhat - giving us some idea of the projects you are going to build, the working space you have and budget are helpful.

In terms of after market attachments, it really depends what you are talking about? Miter gauges and fences for cabinet and hybrid saws are relatively straightforward, most hobbyist saws have the same size arbor (5/8) and can take dado stacks. Sliding saws are a different animal but some prefer them and they can be (a lot) more expensive. What else did you have in mind?

[Mike Cutler]

Minh Tran

For a cabinet saw, yes they are more or less the same. Contractor saws are pretty similar to each other also.

With exception, when buying a table saw, either contractor, or cabinet, assume right up front that the fence may need to be replaced. As the price increases, then sometimes the quality of the fence increases, but not always. Pay for the cabinet, the top, and the guts.

In looking at another saw, just make sure that the the table edges are relatively square to the top, so that you can add fence system you desire, even if it means drilling new holes. A Beismeyer fence is the "standard", so make sure a Beis', or Beis' style fence, can be mounted. Never assume that a fence will install square in al planes. Virtually all of them will require shimming
Make sure that the the trunnion(s) is adjustable, to square the blade to miter slot. Extension wings need to have the ability to be shimmed flat to the main table.

Many folks have done some fabulous work on contractor grade saws, and even the type of saw that you have, but it requires a little more effort. The first thing I would do is to stiffen that fence somehow or the other, and then you're going to have to "back it up" with a clamped piece of wood at the out feed edge to stop it towing out on you when it's used. BTDT.;)

The supplied miters that come with saws are almost always junk. Invest in a quality miter, if it will fit your Craftsman slots, or build a sled for your cross cutting needs.
A cross cut sled is probably one of the least used jigs for a table saw, but it can solve a number of problems because it now becomes the "platform" for any multitude of jigs and fixtures, which you control the accuracy and repeatability of. Nothing beats a well made cross cut sled.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Aside from mitre channel size and
arbor size, no.

Erik

Not sure if they still do, but older Craftsman saws had a slightly smaller miter slot width than 3/4".

[Rich Riddle]

They are close, but close only counts in horse shoes. Most mitre gauge slots are standard, but those even have some variation from time-to-time.

[Cary Falk]

WHAT YOU WANT IS:
3/8"x3/4" miter slot
27" deep cast iron table( if you are looking at router tables and maybe sliding tables)
5/8" arbor
nothing with Craftsman or ShopSmith in the name to better ensure that nothing is nonstandard.

I had an earlier model of the one you linked to and sold it for the reasons you state. The 1st motor didn't last to lone and it cost 1/2 as much as the saw to replace it.

[Von Bickley]

They are close, but close only counts in horse shoes. Most mitre gauge slots are standard, but those even have some variation from time-to-time.

Close counts in horse shoes and Hand Grenades.....

[Erik Loza]

It sounds to me as if the OP is basically asking if machines like table saws are designed to support "open sourced" use. Like Windows PC's, where there the platform is somewhat designed to be added on to or customized by the owners. In answer to that, "no".

Aside from OSHA and UL standards for safety features and electrical conformity, manufacturers actually try as much as possible to keep their designs proprietary and unique. It's a sales a marketing thing.

Erik

[Roger Feeley]

Even the miter channel can be iffy. It makes life hard for aftermarket miter gauge makers.

[larry senen]

The lack of a parallel fence is a pain, but before bessmeyer they were all to common in a lot of shops.
You just keep a tape on the saw and measure to the mitre groove front and back and kick it in place.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have a very similar version (likely identical without the laser). Yes, aligning the fence is a pain. It is not wide enough in the front to keep it square to the table. If you take off the guard, then you can measure from the blade front and back to the fence to get it square. The miter slot in mine is so sloppy to be nearly useless. Additionally, the miter gauge is T-shaped instead of the miter slot. Plus I would call it 'metric' as I could not find a miter gauge that would even attempt to fit in the bottom of the slot. That's given the keeper tabs that Craftsman has along the slot that prevent a standard miter bar from sliding all the way through the slot.

I still have it. I use it with ferrous and non-ferrous blades for cutting thin and mild steel, aluminum, copper, and PCB (fiberglass) material. I use my 1952 Craftsman, which is 6x old and at least 6x better.

[scott spencer]

For the sake of clarity, your saw is not a contractor saw....it's essentially a portable bench top saw on a leg stand. These saws have lots of aluminum and plastic, are very light, are known for lousy fences, and tend to have direct drive universal motors. Not much is standardized on them except that the construction is cheap. Any chance of returning it? If not, can you add a crosscut sled, workstation, and maybe a decent $30 Freud Diablo or Irwin Marples blade, and just live with what it is...

True contractor saws tend to have belt drive induction motors in the range of 1.5hp, and a standard size cast iron top that's roughly 27" deep x 20" wide plus whatever wings get added. It's not absolutely universal, as there will always be exceptions, but generally that same cast iron top dimensions is pretty common for most modern hybrid saws and many cabinet saws in the US. Some of the heavier duty saws have started to offer tops that are in the range of 30" deep, but the 3/4" miter slots tend to be pretty standard on the full size saws.

The features to look for are entirely up to you, but I'd look for a 27" deep cast iron table, belt drive induction motor, riving knife or good splitter, 3/4" miter slots, and a good steel t-square fence. Some help with table saw classifications (http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154).

[mark kosse]

if you x craftsman saws from before 1985 your shorting yourself. Nothing wrong with those saws and they're common, cheap and reasonably easy to set up. with a good fence they're great saws.

[Tom Stenzel]

Hi Minh,

I have the exact same saw, it was a Christmas gift from my wife. And have all the same problems you have. The rip fence doesn't work well. Except you didn't complain about the miter fence. I will. It's *completely* useless.

As you use it you'll find the anti-kickback pawls will push insert by the blade down and make the wood catch on the edge of the insert. The table extenders look cute but don't help. And the batteries leaked in my laser. I didn't fix it.

I use the saw to rough in pieces and use hand tools to get the results I want. Before I got it, I was figuring out how to not have a table saw at all so it's not critical to my work.

The only way to make a good crosscut is to build a sled. It can be done but you have to find strips of steel (that's what I used, you could try wood) that fit the slot. I did a lot of grinding to make a pair. Then attach the metal strips to the bottom of the sled with small screws with washers so they can slip below the metal 'ears' in the t-slots. Or you could could grind the ears out, something I almost did, and could still happen if they get me ticked off again.

My wife thought she was doing good, I couldn't say anything. It's a marriage thing.

-Tom

[Gene Takae]

My biggest gripe about Craftsman tools is that they make a lot of things proprietary such as the miter slots sizes on their table saws. It can also be difficult or impossible to buy repair parts for their tools.

[Curt Harms]

This is what I've read about C'man saw miter slots. The miter slots on Craftsman saws are .750". 'Standard' miter gauge bars are .750". A .750" bar will not slide in a .750" slot. Either the bar has to be slightly undersized - I think C'man gauges are about .740" or the miter slot has be slightly oversized. I have a mid 90s Griz 1023 and the miter slots are about .765". They're a touch sloppy but nothing that can't be easily adjusted for.