Stihl 290

[brian zawatsky]

Have a line on a 2 year old MS290 with an 18" bar, and 3 chains. The saw looks like it's in very good shape, although I haven't seen it run yet.

I negotiated a tentative price of 250 with the seller, as long as it runs well.

Do you guys think 250 is a good price to pay for this saw? Also do you think it would handle a 20" bar well?

[allen thunem]

brain
according to stihls website it will handle a 20 inch bar
the saw has been discontinued.
to get a bit better performance from a longer bar you could change the drive sprocket to give you a bit more speed at the chain
but given the cost incurred of changing bar lengths and buying new chains why not just buy a larger saw that has the features you are looking.
the $250 price tag??? only you can say if that is a good price, its your money

[Craig Parks]

For a bit more you can get a new Echo CS-590 which is not a plastic clamshell saw like the MS290. The Echo is a full metal crankcase saw. Many times you can get 20% off at an Echo dealer which puts this saw at $320. My son bought one for $320. MSRP is $399. We've owned Stihl and Husqvarna in the past but this saw is a really nice saw. Husky and Stihl has really cheapened up on their saws in this price range.

I'm saying the MS290 is a bad saw but personally I wouldn't pay $250 for a used saw with no warranty when for a little more you can get a new saw with a 5 year warranty.

http://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chain-Saws/CS-590-Timber-Wolf

[John Keeton]

Seems a bit high, but it depends some on the condition of the chains. New chains are about $24 each.

[Tom M King]

I have one of those that someone gave me with a 20" bar. It's heavy for the power it has. I'd put a few more dollars to that and get a new MS250 or whatever the number is these days. We also have a MS180 (replaces several worn out 018's), which gets grabbed more often than the larger 036, and 066. The 036 ( probably close to the MS360 or whatever today's numbers are) is what I'm very used to. It's a Pro saw which is significantly lighter than the 290 and has more power-enough to run a wider chain, and longer bar. If I wasn't so used to the 036, the 290 might not be so aggravating.

[Bob Bergstrom]

When buying used,look it over closely. Look for burn marks on the bar. Wiggle the chain sideways on the bar. It should not tilt more than less than 5 degrees either way when properly tighten. Pull the chain cover and check the drive sprocket for excessive wear. Pull the plug and look in the hole with a small bright light. See any scoring or heavy wear marks it ran lean or lack of oil. Start it and hold it reving the engine over a piece of cardboard or visible background. You should see a line of oil. I would examine the teeth on the chain for equal length and sharpening angle. Question why he needed 3 chains? Lastly cut some hard wood. Does it run well under load? Shut it off and see if it will restart easily. Talk about a lower price.

[John Keeton]

Bob, I always keep three chains. I have them sharpened - easier at $6 and they do an excellent job. Much more even than I can do. That way, I can rotate chains when needed. But, I use mine for clearing as much as cutting turning wood, and rocks, dirt and old fencing are hard on chains.

i should add that my 290 lasted for 10 years and would have lasted longer had I not loaned it and the borrower failed to keep the air filter clean. He burnt the piston and that was the end of that. I replaced it with the new model replacement for the 290.

[brian zawatsky]

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess it is definitely true that if I bought that saw, by the time I upgraded it to a 20" bar I'd be just about at the price of the Echo CS-590. At almost 60 CC and a 5 year warranty it's kinda hard to argue with.

[brian zawatsky]

When buying used,look it over closely. Look for burn marks on the bar. Wiggle the chain sideways on the bar. It should not tilt more than less than 5 degrees either way when properly tighten. Pull the chain cover and check the drive sprocket for excessive wear. Pull the plug and look in the hole with a small bright light. See any scoring or heavy wear marks it ran lean or lack of oil. Start it and hold it reving the engine over a piece of cardboard or visible background. You should see a line of oil. I would examine the teeth on the chain for equal length and sharpening angle. Question why he needed 3 chains? Lastly cut some hard wood. Does it run well under load? Shut it off and see if it will restart easily. Talk about a lower price.

Thanks for the pointers. I'm not very chainsaw savvy so I appreciate the education!!

[Phillip Mitchell]

$250 is high to me for a used 290, unless it is absolutely mint and was babied. I wouldn't ever buy a 290, though. I'm used to running saws with better power/weight ratios and can't get over how bulky it is for it's relatively little power. I would say it's suited for an 18" bar and could struggle with a 20" in big hardwoods. The most important part of how any saw cuts and seems to perform comes down to the sharpness, selection and maintenance of your chain (and bar.) There's as much discussion about sharpening chainsaw chain as there is sharpening chisels.

What is your main need in a chainsaw? Occasional use, yearly firewood, more than use than that? That will determine whether or not you'll be happy with the 290 after using it for a while. It may suit you just fine, but if you plan to be carrying it through the woods for any distance and need something nimble, I would spend that $250 elsewhere. If you don't need more power than what a 290 has then I would look for a used Stihl 025, 026 or a used MS261 (which is a newer model) if you want a Stihl. Just some thoughts from someone who has run several chainsaws in lots of firewood and logging applications.

[James B Lee]

Before you buy a Husky, I'd read some reviews about their customer service.
From what I've read when choosing my saw was that the Husky's are imported
with the carbs leaned out to pass emissions and people are burning pistons and
Husky is claiming that the owner ran it with the wrong mix and wouldn't honor the warranty.
If you do decide to buy a Husky make sure you have the carb adjusted.
I bought a new ms271 for that very reason. And the fact they service the Stihl's
where you buy them.

[brian zawatsky]

$250 is high to me for a used 290, unless it is absolutely mint and was babied. I wouldn't ever buy a 290, though. I'm used to running saws with better power/weight ratios and can't get over how bulky it is for it's relatively little power. I would say it's suited for an 18" bar and could struggle with a 20" in big hardwoods. The most important part of how any saw cuts and seems to perform comes down to the sharpness, selection and maintenance of your chain (and bar.) There's as much discussion about sharpening chainsaw chain as there is sharpening chisels. What is your main need in a chainsaw? Occasional use, yearly firewood, more than use than that? That will determine whether or not you'll be happy with the 290 after using it for a while. It may suit you just fine, but if you plan to be carrying it through the woods for any distance and need something nimble, I would spend that $250 elsewhere. If you don't need more power than what a 290 has then I would look for a used Stihl 025, 026 or a used MS261 (which is a newer model) if you want a Stihl. Just some thoughts from someone who has run several chainsaws in lots of firewood and logging applications.

My main use for a chainsaw is cutting logs for turning blanks. My lathe has 22" of swing, and I'd like to be able to cut 24" diameter logs without too much trouble. I can't afford a larger pro saw right now, even though I'd love to have a saw that can run a 25" bar. I figured a 20" bar is a decent compromise.

I have a Stihl MSE 250 electric saw I bought new that I use to process blanks in my shop, and that saw has a 20" bar. It kicks ass for an electric saw, but obviously I'm limited by the power supply. Need the gas saw to be able to saw logs where I find them in order to get 'em home!

[Phillip Mitchell]

Gotcha! A 290 may suit you just fine. A 20" bar is certainly possible if you keep your chain sharp and let it do most of the work. In my opinion, when crosscutting logs, a properly sharpened chain should self feed for the most part, only requiring minimal/relaxed pressure guiding the saw (not pushing hard to get it to cut.)

And don't forget...you can almost always cut from both sides of the log (effectively doubling your range of cut) if you are careful and measured.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

When buying used,look it over closely. Look for burn marks on the bar. Wiggle the chain sideways on the bar. It should not tilt more than less than 5 degrees either way when properly tighten. Pull the chain cover and check the drive sprocket for excessive wear. Pull the plug and look in the hole with a small bright light. See any scoring or heavy wear marks it ran lean or lack of oil. Start it and hold it reving the engine over a piece of cardboard or visible background. You should see a line of oil. I would examine the teeth on the chain for equal length and sharpening angle. Question why he needed 3 chains? Lastly cut some hard wood. Does it run well under load? Shut it off and see if it will restart easily. Talk about a lower price.

I have at least 2 chains for each of my saws. when I'm in the field cutting, I'd rather swap chains than stop to sharpen.

[John K Jordan]

Brian, I don't know that saw so I don't know the value. I do have four Stihls and use them a great deal around the farm and also for preparing turning blanks. I usually turn dry wood so most of what I'm turning now has been air drying 6-10 years. I try to add some more blanks to my drying racks every few months. (Write species and date on each piece!)

If I buy something mechanical used I will rarely pay more than about half the list price - much more than that I'd rather just get the new one and have the warranty.

For a used saw I would be primarily concerned about the engine. Things like the chain and bar and even the drive sprocket are consumables and will be replaced anyway after some use, just like the tires on the car. If the chain and bar are worn out just throw them away and get new ones. I usually buy bar and chain combos from Bailey's online and keep several on hand. I've had to replace the drive sprocket in one MS250 but that is expected with heavy use. When looking at a used saw I would not worry the least if it is worn - they are cheap, just get another one (along with a new chain).

I do want an engine that starts every time with minimal effort. Some develop carb problems and are a pain to start. Make sure it has good compression. Use Stihl's starting instructions in the manual, also available online. I'm surprised at the number of people who haven't read the manual and don't know the procedure. The saw should start on two pulls every time or something is wrong.

I would peek in the oil and gasoline tanks - the saw should use them equally so if the saw has been used they should both have about the same amount of fluid. If the gas is lower than the oil the oil tank the oil hole in the bar might be plugged or the oil line from the tank might be clogged. (This is often caused by getting sawdust in the oil tank.) Neither are a big problem since they are no big deal to clean - just do it before you use the saw. Check the oil delivery as someone mentioned. BTW, I always add a little oil directly to the chain before sawing. If the chain and bar on the used one has obviously been run without oil just throw it away.

I know people who still drive to the shop and drop their chains off to be sharpened. That would be one reason the old owner might have more than one bar and chain. I'd rather sharpen myself. I sharpened with a file for years but an electric sharpener will save a lot of time.

Hey, if you don't know, every few times you sharpen a chain you should flip the bar over for even wear. Check the wobble in the chain as someone mentioned but not everyone knows that a sloppy bar can be reworked easily - I have a tool that adjusts the width of the slot so the chain rides straight upright. A bar worn so it has sharp edges usually needs only to be filed and dressed. Make sure the sprocket on the tip turns freely (should be oiled periodically but almost no one does this.) I would make sure the bar is not bent, especially after you get it hung up in a tree. BTW, here's a hint that can save you untold frustration if cutting in the field: take along an extra bar and chain and a wrench. If you get the saw hung up, just remove the saw motor from the bar, install the new bar and chain, and cut out the pinched bar. ALso, learn to use plastic wedges and you will never get a saw stuck again, even when cutting massive trees suspended from both ends.

I don't worry if some teeth are shorter than others as long as they are sharp. This doesn't hurt a thing. If the chain is run into the dirt or rock or metal just be sure to remove all of the damage on each tooth or the saw won't cut well. Most chains have a little angled line on each tooth - I sharpen down to this line leaving the tooth looking like a little nub. They still cut very well.

If you haven't done much chainsawing, I'd highly recommend doing a little study first. When I bought this farm I researched all the ways I could find to get hurt or killed with a chainsaw and trees. There are more ways than you can imagine and if you don't know about them you can't possibly protect against them. I particularly like an old book called "The Good Woodcutter's Guide" for chainsaw operation and care, safety, and staying alive while cutting trees.

I just cut up a sugar maple tree that came down across the fence at a friends farm. Most of our maples are soft maples so I was happy to get this. It was pretty hard but I sharpened before I went. If you don't know, as you reduce the length of each tooth by sharpening you also have to reduce the height of the depth limiting gauges or even a sharp chain will quit cutting. I use a stone on a Dremel for this along with a little gauge for checking. I found out some dealers who sharpen chains do NOT lower these - I suspect it is because they can then tell a customer his chain is worn out and sell a new one even if there is actually a lot of life left in the chain.

Here is one reason I have so many chain saws. This is just half of a big white oak tree that came down on my own fence behind the barn a few years back. This one took a bit of planning (and some effort) to clean up safely. The other half came down a couple of years later. Good exercise for an old guy.

339491

JKJ

[Fred Belknap]

The other half came down a couple of years later. Good exercise for an old guy.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=339491&d=1466395929&thumb=1 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=339491&d=1466395929)



Looks like a job for thr pros.

[John K Jordan]

Looks like a job for thr pros.

That's why I did it myself. Not trying to be a smart-alec here - I too ALWAYS recommend calling a pro to remove a tree. There are too many things that can can go wrong and kill you. In fact I cringe when a woodturner with his first chainsaw heads out to harvest turning blanks.

A tree like this requires careful consideration of the geometry and weight distribution. I thought about it for a days before starting. The biggest danger was the "spring pole" in the foreground, embedded a foot in the ground from the fall. Walk up to it with a chainsaw and die.

I whittled away on the small branches at the top of the tree to reduce the weight, removed several unstressed log-sized "branches" safely at ground level, applied tension to one section of the tree with a cable, then used a chain with the tractor to pull the spring pole out from under that section from a safe distance, then released the cable tension which rolled the tree and dropped that section to the ground. In general if you whittle away from the top of the tree from a safe place the whole thing will gradually sink safely towards the ground. Much of this tree paid a visit to my sawmill.

Besides the tractor, I also have a bobcat, a 50' length of 3/8" chain, and some large manila ropes which help with bracing and pulling for trees and cleanup. I could not have moved this one without the backhoe and bobcat when clearing to build my new shop:

339494

BTW, for even more ways to get killed study tractor fatalities.

I have a much smaller tree a pine across a fence in another part of the farm to clean up this week. If I never post here again you'll know I messed up. This one is much, much smaller but you can't get complacent for even a moment. It doesn't take a very big branch to hurt you badly or kill you.

An elderly neighbor was sent to the hospital when a widomaker branch hit the top of his head while his son was felling a tree. He was three trees away at the time and the cut tree was falling away from him. That tree brushed another tree which dropped a limb which knocked loose a dead limb from the tree he was standing behind. It was that limb that hit him on the head. A hard hat would have saved getting all those stitches.

The bobcat is my go-to tool for clearing and cleanup since it has a strong cage to protect against the occasional falling branch. Still, I call my favorite tree guys for felling a tree unless it is pretty small or leaning significantly in the right direction.

BTW, this is my favorite "come-along" cable puller. Note the pulley with the hook which doubles the force when needed.
http://www.baileysonline.com/Tools-Outdoor-Equipment/Winches-Pullers/Hand-Winches/3-Ton-Ratchet-Puller-with-20---5-16-Cable.axd

339495

I've even used it to get my tractor unstuck.

JKJ

[Bob Bergstrom]

Bob, I always keep three chains. I have them sharpened - easier at $6 and they do an excellent job. Much more even than I can do. That way, I can rotate chains when needed. But, I use mine for clearing as much as cutting turning wood, and rocks, dirt and old fencing are hard on chains.

i should add that my 290 lasted for 10 years and would have lasted longer had I not loaned it and the borrower failed to keep the air filter clean. He burnt the piston and that was the end of that. I replaced it with the new model replacement for the 290.
I guess you are backing up my asking why. I have a Stihl 362 with one backup chain if I really trash it on a hidden spike or rock. I sharpen with a file and file it for cross cutting and ripping. I only cut wood for bowl blanks. You state you use your saw for clearing and other things that are hard on chains. That's something I, as a perspective buyer, would like to know. How was the saw used. Was it because one was cutting nasty stuff or just that one preferred to be prepared. I must say I took my chain in to be sharpen at my Shihl dealer and lost half the length of the tooth. I guess I should have told him how I use it to rip 24" bowl blanks.

[Rich Sabulsky]

I have a 290 with a 20" bar and it's a good firewood saw. The 20" bar is nice, but if you bury the whole bar in a hardwood log it's going to work pretty hard. I hardly use it though - I reach for my smaller saw for 95% of my firewood work - it's lighter, more fuel efficient, and easier on the body.

I tried using the 290 for ripping bowl blanks and it was definitely low on power with the 20". To be fair I was using a regular chain, maybe better results with a ripping chain? I just picked up a 461 for this task, and while it's heavier the power is more than plenty.

If you're close to Allentown, you can come by and help me make smaller pieces of wood out of larger ones anytime you like. :)

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

I have a 290 with a 20" bar and it's a good firewood saw. The 20" bar is nice, but if you bury the whole bar in a hardwood log it's going to work pretty hard. I hardly use it though - I reach for my smaller saw for 95% of my firewood work - it's lighter, more fuel efficient, and easier on the body.

I tried using the 290 for ripping bowl blanks and it was definitely low on power with the 20". To be fair I was using a regular chain, maybe better results with a ripping chain? I just picked up a 461 for this task, and while it's heavier the power is more than plenty.

If you're close to Allentown, you can come by and help me make smaller pieces of wood out of larger ones anytime you like. :)
depends on how you are "ripping" blanks.

For ripping, I use a standard chain (Stihl Rapid Micro), lay down the log and cut parallel with the pith. you get long shavings this way. It can bog down the saw and shavings can clog the chain cover, but once you find the "sweet spot" - shavings fly and the chain cover keeps itself unclogged.

If you're cutting them from "end grain" - as would be done with a chainsaw mill, you have to use a ripping chain. I've only run a chainsaw mill a few times, but my opinion was that it is VERY slow cutting...and that was using the largest Husqy saw.

ripping through side grain is faster, but easier to leave a poor surface that might be tough to take straight to the bandsaw.

in the field, I usually use a 440 for ripping. On the driveway, I use my Stihl electric (usually), just to be courteous to the neighbor. For some reason, he doesn't like a chainsaw running 20' away from his kitchen window. Go figure.