Got the lathe and some turning tools. What else?

[Steve Mathews]

I got the Powermatic 3520A a few days ago and will soon receive some turning tools to get started. Here's a list of the other items I have.

Vicmarc 120 chuck
Large tool rest - I think it's 12" wide
Live center
Baldor 6" grinder with Veritas attachment
Full face shield

So, what else do I need to get started. I was thinking of a tool handle, small bowl or rolling pin for a beginning project. Or?

Here's another list of items that I'm thinking of getting soon. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Grinding jig
Larger diameter grinder
Smaller width or different type of tool rest
Pointed tool that holds part in headstock - I can't remember the name of it. Edit: Someone suggested a Stebcenter
Instruction manuals

[Chris Gunsolley]

I got the Powermatic 3520A a few days ago and will soon receive some turning tools to get started. Here's a list of the other items I have.

Vicmarc 120 chuck
Large tool rest - I think it's 12" wide
Live center
Baldor 6" grinder with Veritas attachment
Full face shield

So, what else do I need to get started. I was thinking of a tool handle, small bowl or rolling pin for a beginning project. Or?

Here's another list of items that I'm thinking of getting soon. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Grinding jig
Larger diameter grinder
Smaller width or different type of tool rest
Pointed tool that holds part in headstock - I can't remember the name of it. Edit: Someone suggested a Stebcenter
Instruction manuals

Superb line of equipment! You're going to need the grinder and grinding jig immediately. I'd recommend a Rikon Low Speed 8" grinder ($99.00 on sale at Woodcraft), along with a Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig and a Oneway Varigrind attachment to go with it.

[John K Jordan]

1) One or two books, as listed before. I and others that have used them recommend them highly.
2) Practice wood
3) Time
4) For platters/bowls: some kind of screw chuck (wormwood screw)

Tool handles make great projects and save money too. Pens are quick and extremely easy: purchasing a mandrel helps a lot. As I mentioned earlier, experts recommend learning spindle turning (tool handle) before face turning (bowl). If you learn tool control from turning spindles you will be a quick expert at bowls.

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

1) One or two books, as listed before. I and others that have used them recommend them highly.
2) Practice wood
3) Time
4) For platters/bowls: some kind of screw chuck (wormwood screw)

Tool handles make great projects and save money too. Pens are quick and extremely easy: purchasing a mandrel helps a lot. As I mentioned earlier, experts recommend learning spindle turning (tool handle) before face turning (bowl). If you learn tool control from turning spindles you will be a quick expert at bowls.

JKJ

I ordered the two books mentioned before and a 6" tool rest. What is a screw chuck? Is that the accessory that is available (and don't have) on my Vicmarc chuck?

[Len Mullin]

Steve, you should check out the turning videos on You-Tube, there's lots of good teaching videos there. A few good turners to learn from, is Richard Raffin, Brendon Stemp, Mike Peace, Mike Waldt, Stuart Batty, John Jordan, Al Lacer, Ernie Conover, Robo Hippy (Reed Gray) and numerous others. Yes, there is a few people posting videos that shouldn't, you can learn bad turning habits watching them. Hopefully, you'll be able to discern which videos they are. All of the turners I listed, are respected for what they know and teach about the hobby. Study what they do, and you should start turning safely.
Len

[Aaron Craven]

steb centers are sometimes also called superdrive centers or safety centers. They all have a set of somewhat fine teeth (as compared to a spur drive center) and a spring-loaded center point. For most uses, they make a great replacement for the very simple spur center that most lathes come with. Pictured below is PSI's version of a steb center. I've been pretty pleased with mine, which I got off Amazon for about $20.

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If you decide to do any types of projects that required drilling (pepper grinders, for example), you may also want to get a Jacob's chuck (I got mine from Harbor Freight for about $15. Look for item #42340.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

No one mentioned Bill Grimbine's videos? I like his Turned Bowls Made Easy. And his second too. Good DVDs.

One of the big ticket items you don't have listed is a good chainsaw. Avoid the local box store cheapo models, get a Husky or a Stihl. Any of the "Pro" name brand models. A good chainsaw will get you lots of "free" wood. Not wanting to start a name brand war, but I'm partial to Stihls. I have 3.

Welcome! You have a very nice "startup set". I'm already jealous....

[Joe Shanaphy]

A 4 (+/-) inch faceplate and some 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inch #10-12 hex-head screws would be helpful. I like the EWT aluminum ones for medium sized projects and steel or cast-iron for larger ones. Also, I have found a set of "framers" gloves which leave the thumb and forefinger fingerless but cover the rest to be very good for turning.

[John Keeton]

I would consider using the Baldor grinder blocked up to accept the Wolverine system and 8" CBN wheels. You could buy two CBN wheels for the price of a Rikon grinder and the Baldor should be a much better piece of machinery assuming it is in good shape. With CBN wheels, I would not be as concerned about guards, but I would think you could find a couple of 8" guards pretty easily. Just a thought.

[John K Jordan]

What is a screw chuck? Is that the accessory that is available (and don't have) on my Vicmarc chuck?

I use a screw chuck on almost every bowl or platter. Keep in mind that usually I turn dry wood from 1.5"-3" thick stock - if turning a huge chunk of unbalanced wet wood or a large glue-up of dry wood I use a different method (faceplate or big tenon in a scroll chuck).

A screw chuck is simple and secure - drill a single hole in what will be the top, mount on the screw, turn the outside of the bowl including a tenon on the bottom, reverse and hold with the tenon to turn the inside of the bowl or upper side of the platter. Even large platters can be done like this, for example this one used three holes to turn a multi-axis platter foot (as taught by Frank Penta):

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BTW, this was done on a PM3520 lathe. I generally use a special screw chuck but this platter was held by a screw that comes with and fits into a Nova chuck:

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I don't know if the chuck you have has something similar. I suspect one of the nova screws would work but I don't have your brand of chuck to try. I do have plenty of extras of these if you need one or just want to see if it works with your chuck - send me a PM with your mailing address.

Note that you can easily make a screw chuck with a piece of wood and a faceplate, but it is difficult to hold work securely without using a screw made special for this. You can also just use a faceplate with multiple normal screws but it is slower to use and less flexible. But as mentioned, a faceplate can be better on large wood blanks.

JKJ

[Prashun Patel]

What do you wish to make?

If bowls, I suggest a face plate.
One way varigrind jig
Right angle drill and some sanding Mandrels. Check out Vince's woodnworks.

[Peter Blair]

Steve, try to join a club. There just is nothing like having like minded people to talk to and most are more than happy to share their experience with you.

[John K Jordan]

So, what else do I need to get started...

Some other things I thought of for the future:

-- I didn't see if you mentioned what jaws came with that chuck. Here again, it depends on what you make but the right jaws make things easier. I have no idea what jaws are available for the Vicmark but for the Teknatool chucks I have some of my favorite jaws are, in the order I use them the most for the thing I like to turn:

35mm
45mm
pin jaws
2"
4"

Whether you should get any jaws now would depend on what you want to start turning first.

-- Good lighting at the lathe. Many options, from cheap swing arm fixtures from walmart to expensive (but worth it) lights such as Ken Rizza sells (Woodturners Wonders).

-- I do love to use the steb centers, one small, one large, one that fits in the chuck, and one on a revolving tail center. The lathe should have come with a conventional drive center, one that looks like four chisels with a central point. I don't use these as much but they are better if you don't want things to slip, especially larger work. I use steb centers for almost all spindle work that's not too big.

-- For health, get one now: a good dust mask or three. I prefer the 3M face masks with twin P100 filters. The paper masks are ok but I'd get the kind with the exhaust vent.

-- Calipers. I prefer the very cheap, stamped stainless steel verniers from Home Depot, that look like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073LC04I . I keep about 10 of them and round the corners so they slip nicely over the work while sizing. A good digital caliper is nice as well for measuring tenons, drill bits, etc, but not for sizing on the lathe.

-- I can't work without a 6" and 10" steel rule. And a measuring tape of course.

-- A compass to draw circles.

-- Magnets to stick some of this junk to the front of the lathe and elsewhere. I like the magnets with countersunk holes to fasten them to wood as on the false plywood shelf front at the top of this picture (notice I wrap soft iron wire around pencils and markers and things so they will stick to magnets):

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-- A good depth gauge is invaluable, but you can make do with the one built into the vernier calipers or even piece of wire or a stick or make your own. This is my favorite (beware of cheap, worthless junk that look the same like the latest General).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002FTYRI

-- Did anyone mention sandpaper? A good cloth-backed paper in the coarser grits and some good fine paper. I prefer Rynowet in 600 and finer and the Klingspor Gold in 1" and 2" rolls for 400 and coarser.
http://www.supergrit.com/products/RedlineRedFlexSheets

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-- A bandsaw. The most important tool in the shop besides the lathe.

-- Small diamond hones to touch up tool edges.

-- A gasoline and an electric chain saw to harvest wood.

-- An anti-fatigue mat for in front of the lathe.

-- Cabinets and shelves for all this stuff.

The list is endless.

But before you run out and buy anything else I think you will be better off if you wait since you already have everything you need "to get started"! What if you decide you don't like woodturning? After you get some experience other things you "need" will become obvious.

JKJ

[Brice Rogers]

John Jordan, I like your platter. It looks very nice.

How did you apply the texture on the face and how did you do the texture on the edge?

[John K Jordan]

John Jordan, I like your platter. It looks very nice.

How did you apply the texture on the face and how did you do the texture on the edge?
Thanks! It was good fun. I used the Sorby texture/spiraling tool with the pointed star wheel. I use the large Sorby, the small one, a knurling tool, and a couple of similar shop-made ones. The wheel I used is on the larger Sorby:


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I use the pointed stars a lot on spindles but that was the first time I tried it on a face turning. It's impossible to hang out with Frank Penta very long without texturing something!

Just push it straight into the spinning wood with some force and move it from side to side. The only problem is you get one chance - if you don't like it you have to turn away the wood and try again. I wasn't entirely satisfied with the result at first but it grew on me and went to a good cause. I auctioned that platter on eBay to benefit two little girls of a friend with terminal cancer.

I like using the star wheel on spindles, especially on tool handles where you are interested in the grip regardless of how it looks. But it turns out that if the spindle is curved or tapered you can get some far more interesting patterns than you can in a narrow band on the face of a platter:

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The technique looks good on magic wands too! My 5-year-old grandson and I made this one for him to take home. (Sorry, I love photos!)

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Frank wanted me to texture the edge with the same tool but I rebelled, pacifying him with a technique I made up on the spot: random scribbling with a vibrating electric engraving tool! Here is a larger picture. The photo's not too good but you might see the effect OK. The wood is sapele.

339396

I think a little texturing can add a lot. I more recently started texturing with small rounded burr in a Dremel. It takes a lot of touches but I like the effect (I've posted some of these before):

339399 339400

339401

JKJ

[Dane Riley]

You answered the texturing question an presented a bigger mystery. How did you do the last one (feet and antlers). The magic wands must have come in handy!

[Jamie Straw]

A specific suggestion as to the Varigrind jig (which really should be called a fixture, I'm told): Suggestion is to get the original Varigrind, not the Varigrind 2. I and several other people I've known were disappointed with the VG2. I replaced it with the original and sold the 2 on eBay, awkward thing that it was. Very happy with the regular one. Also, I'll recommend a book that is very comprehensive and well-illustrated, Doc Green's Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturning: Everything You Need to Know to Secure Wood on Your Lathe (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565235193/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

[John K Jordan]

You answered the texturing question an presented a bigger mystery. How did you do the last one (feet and antlers). The magic wands must have come in handy!

I save the magic wands for fighting evil wizards and for the magic of making money. Those and the handles in the other pictures are the only things I've ever made to sell - when one of the Harry Potter books was released I set up a mini lathe in front of the book store and sold $1740 worth in three hours! Yikes. It's a great gig but the work is not too steady...

339428 339426

Oops, back to the question.

All mysteries revealed: Good friend and prolific turner John Lucas gave a demo at our club on turning bowls with feet and handles. I wanted to try something kind of organic so I made the one from bradford pear. To make these you turn the basic outside shape but leave rings (or wings) that get carved into the feet and handles.

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After roughing out the shape I carved and smoothed with a Foredom rotary carver, carving gouges, scalpels, rifflers, files, and sandpaper glued to small spatulas. (I took a break after the turning and before carving and made a little saw to help rough out the shape - that was good fun itself!:)

339425

When turning it is challenging to get the continuity of the shape right on both sides of the bottom ring. I somehow guessed this one right but if I do another one I think I'll make a template. Since I'm pretty lazy I hit on the idea of leaving a textured band where I carved the "handle" tendrils. This was a lot easier since I didn't have to make a perfect surface between the handles. (Any irregularity would be glaring.) When finished, I think the texture looked better than a smooth side would.

The whole thing was fun to do but it was a bit tedious. The design evolved as I saw what was emerging. The carving tool MUCH longer than the turning! And this design is pretty delicate - I took it to the TAW symposium and elsewhere and I'm surprised it's not broken yet!

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

A specific suggestion as to the Varigrind jig (which really should be called a fixture, I'm told): Suggestion is to get the original Varigrind, not the Varigrind 2. I and several other people I've known were disappointed with the VG2. I replaced it with the original and sold the 2 on eBay, awkward thing that it was. Very happy with the regular one. Also, I'll recommend a book that is very comprehensive and well-illustrated, Doc Green's Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturning: Everything You Need to Know to Secure Wood on Your Lathe (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565235193/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

I agree with both suggestions.

I have both versions of the Varigrind and after one use haven't touched the new one again. It was easy to set up and sharpened fine but I didn't like one thing - by design it forces all grinding to be done at a fixed spot at the center of the wheel. I prefer to spread my sharpening to even out wear on the stone. Even with the CBN wheels I would prefer to spread the wear across the grinding surface. I don't know what others didn't like but that was enough for me. Anyone want one?

In addition to Doc Green's excellent book, check out the many valuable articles on his web site:
http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/articles.html
And Doc is a real nice and helpful person too, always seems to be willing to take the time to answer questions.


As for calling something a jig or a fixture, I am sometimes confused.

From the Jig and Fixture Handbook: Introduction to Workholding:
https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/29625071F0B221118070C1C513906103E0B05543B0B0120090 83C3B2853514359482013180B041D1E173C3B2853524B5A5B
Often the terms "jig" and "fixture" are confused or used interchangeably; however, there are clear distinctions between these two tools. Although many people have their own definitions for a jig or fixture, there is one universal distinction between the two. Both jigs and fixtures hold, support, and locate the workpiece. A jig, however, guides the cutting tool. A fixture references the cutting tool.

This article concerns traditional machining.To explain fixtures the handbook uses examples of gauge blocks, edge finder, or center finder to position the cutter.

In the case of the Varigrind it seems equivalent to think of the operation from a different perspective: as guiding the cutting tool, the grinding stone - imagine the gouge held stationary and the grinder and wheel moving to shape the gouge. What rationale do others use for calling the Varigrind a fixture?

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

A specific suggestion as to the Varigrind jig (which really should be called a fixture, I'm told): Suggestion is to get the original Varigrind, not the Varigrind 2. I and several other people I've known were disappointed with the VG2. I replaced it with the original and sold the 2 on eBay, awkward thing that it was. Very happy with the regular one....

I'm about to order the Oneway Grinding Jig but don't know which of the two original Vari-Grinds to get, the one for 1/8" - 5/8" or 1/2" - 1 1/8" tools.

[John Keeton]

I think you will get the most use out of the smaller one.

[Steve Mathews]

I think you will get the most use out of the smaller one.

Thanks again John! I'll order the smaller one.

[John K Jordan]

Thanks again John! I'll order the smaller one.

If you are referring to the steb centers here, I suggest one more thing - make sure the one you get has a spring-loaded center point. I have one brand without the spring and I don't use it since it only works correctly in soft wood or if you make a substantial hole in harder wood so the teeth can contact the wood. Forcing a point with no spring into a thin blank of hard and/or brittle wood is likely to cause it to split.

BTW, for thin spindles I always make a hole in the center of each end even if the wood is not hard since it just makes it quicker to mount precisely. I keep a gimlet on a magnet at each lathe.
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It is is much quicker to grab the gimlet and make a hole than finding and putting a bit in a power drill.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

I'm about to order the Oneway Grinding Jig but don't know which of the two original Vari-Grinds to get, the one for 1/8" - 5/8" or 1/2" - 1 1/8" tools.

Do you plan on bowl or spindle gouges larger than 5/8". That is huge for a gouge. If not, the smaller one would be better. It looks like the larger one will only go down to 1/2" which is bigger than all of my favorite spindle gouges and most of my bowl gouges. Those few people who have 3/4" or larger bowl gouges might get both jigs.

You don't mention it here but I suspect you know you have to buy the Wolverine kit too to get the base and tool support ("V" arm), unless you want to make something yourself.

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

The end of the first chapter in acquiring enough tools and equipment is coming to a close. It's almost time to begin turning. I ordered the Oneway Jig and Vari-Grind (original version) today along with a couple of spring loaded drive centers, 5/8" and 1". In response to some of the other suggestions, I already have a band saw, chain saw and some of the other misc. items mentioned. I think it's time to start using what I have. I'm sure I'll make other trips to the bank once I get going. Did someone say this hobby is a money pit?

[Jamie Straw]

[Snip]As for calling something a jig or a fixture, I am sometimes confused.

From the Jig and Fixture Handbook: Introduction to Workholding:
https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/29625071F0B221118070C1C513906103E0B05543B0B0120090 83C3B2853514359482013180B041D1E173C3B2853524B5A5B
Often the terms "jig" and "fixture" are confused or used interchangeably; however, there are clear distinctions between these two tools. Although many people have their own definitions for a jig or fixture, there is one universal distinction between the two. Both jigs and fixtures hold, support, and locate the workpiece. A jig, however, guides the cutting tool. A fixture references the cutting tool.

[Snip]
In the case of the Varigrind it seems equivalent to think of the operation from a different perspective: as guiding the cutting tool, the grinding stone - imagine the gouge held stationary and the grinder and wheel moving to shape the gouge. What rationale do others use for calling the Varigrind a fixture?

JKJ

John, I made that comment, chuckling to myself as I typed. Dave Schweitzer has helped me with a couple of sharpening sessions at his shop, and he always makes a point of how it is a fixture, not a jig. I get confused trying to sort it out.:D Personally, I've long thought that people use the word "jig" because it's only 3 letters and easier to say than "fixture." So goes the English language.:p

[Aaron Craven]

Did someone say this hobby is a money pit?

They don't call it the vortex for nothin'!

[Steve Mathews]

After further thought I decided to get an 8" grinder. At $99 the low speed Rikon sounds good but I can't find the sale referred to by member Chris Gunsolley. Is the sale now over? If so, would one of the other brands like Jet be a better bargain?

[Aaron Craven]

If you're in need of the full setup and want to go with Wolverine, this is what I bought. It's actually a pretty good combo, given that you get the grinder, wolverine (both bases) and a varigrind: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/158820/rikonwolverine-sharpening-kit.aspx

[Steve Mathews]

If you're in need of the full setup and want to go with Wolverine, this is what I bought. It's actually a pretty good combo, given that you get the grinder, wolverine (both bases) and a varigrind: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/158820/rikonwolverine-sharpening-kit.aspx

Thanks Aaron but I already purchased the Wolverine setup and Varigrind. My first inclination was to use the Baldor 6" grinder that I already have. But after others have strongly recommended an 8" grinder instead I decided to go in that direction. I would like to purchase another Baldor but they are prohibitively expensive based on my level of use at this time. The Rikon grinder sounded like a good idea at a sale price of $99 but seemed less so at the regular price of $139. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to consider instead the Jet model. It's yet more expensive but looks better made, sort of a step toward the Baldor. Is there a usual time when these grinders go on sale?

[Doug Ladendorf]

Check for a used Baldor in your area.

[John K Jordan]

...he always makes a point of how it is a fixture, not a jig. I get confused trying to sort it out.:D Personally, I've long thought that people use the word "jig" because it's only 3 letters and easier to say than "fixture."

Of course. He too retains the divine right of every 'merican to state his opinion publicly and with authority, confused or otherwise.

I always thought a "fixture" was the old guy who had been there forever and would probably never retire. I avoided that label by graciously retiring (long time ago) at age 56. :-) Now you'll have to excuse me, my Lovely Bride has just put a warm peach/blueberry pie on a rotatable fixture stationary jig platter stand thingy and I'm on a quest to find an appropriate cutting tool. I decree it an emergency. Blueberry time is just once a year here at the Farm and it is my duty to embrace it.

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

Check for a used Baldor in your area.

A used Baldor is actually my first choice but being in a rural area they are few and far between. Shipping is an option but that too is expensive for a heavy grinder.

[Aaron Craven]

Thanks Aaron but I already purchased the Wolverine setup and Varigrind. My first inclination was to use the Baldor 6" grinder that I already have. But after others have strongly recommended an 8" grinder instead I decided to go in that direction. I would like to purchase another Baldor but they are prohibitively expensive based on my level of use at this time. The Rikon grinder sounded like a good idea at a sale price of $99 but seemed less so at the regular price of $139. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to consider instead the Jet model. It's yet more expensive but looks better made, sort of a step toward the Baldor. Is there a usual time when these grinders go on sale?

Sorry. I have no idea on sales or on how the Jet compares to the Rikon. I certainly see your point on the price, though.

[John K Jordan]

I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to consider instead the Jet model. It's yet more expensive but looks better made, sort of a step toward the Baldor.

I don't have a Jet but my "collection" of 5 grinders does include the 1/2 Hp Rikon. It is ok but the construction is a bit cheap. I and others have noticed the irregular casting requiring some grinding or other effort for it to sit flat. I think the 1/2 Hp is underpowered compared to the no-name 3/4 Hp grinder next to it, the one Woodcraft used to sell for about $100. The Rikon is slower to start up and some people have noted that two heavy steel CBN wheels are almost too much for it.

We also have one at a shop for teaching children and with conventional wheels it spins ok, but horribly out of balance with the Aluminium Oxide wheels that came on it, even after truing. It shakes the whole table. The wheels wobble from side to side and are evidently not entirely uniform as well. When I use standard wheels I use the Norton 3x along with the Oneway balancer - runs so smooth. CBN wheels should be smooth from the start, assuming the seat and nut are true.

Used Baldor grinders around here are usually very high, even with 3-phase motors. With a VFD one would make a wonderful variable speed grinder.

JKJ

[Jamie Straw]

Blueberry time is just once a year here at the Farm and it is my duty to embrace it.

JKJ
Our blueberries are just ripening now. If we can get to them before the birds strip the bushes, I'll send you some!

[Jamie Straw]

As far as a particular grinder having enough oomph to spin CBN wheels, remember -- there are aluminum CBNs that are much lighter but (I've been told by those who use them) just as good. Ken Rizza (http://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/cbn-wheels)sells them, and also has 2-part washer sets that solve run-out problems created by the grinder nuts not being square. I got my wheel last week, and am pretty much in 7th Heaven. They cost much less than the steel wheels also. If you can afford a pair, go for it! at $249 + shipping, it's a good deal.

[William Bachtel]

Wood, and then some more wood.