Another jointer help thread...

[Brian Akers]

Ok guys, I've been fiddling with this thing for too long now! Rockwell 37-220

I have shimmed the outfeed table because it was sagging. Also "tried" to make the tables co-planer. I'm using an Empire 48" e2G Professional True Blue level that is supposed to be .001" accurate. I used a .005" shim for checking and I can't get the shim in under anywhere. I just put new blades on as well. My method of setting the height is dragging a short ruler through the rotation of the head. When both ends of each blade drag the same distance (5mm) I called it a day.
When using the jointer one side of the board ends up shorter than the other. Not the ends but across the board. It's a little over an 1/8th off. Is this a blade issue or co-planer issue?

339282

[Bradley Gray]

Depending on the twist of the piece before jointing this could be the proper result. Did you try more than 1 board?

What is your reference when setting the knives? I use the out feed table with a short reference straightedge. I turn the head so the knife at top dead center and drag a thin piece of paper between knife and reference while adjusting the jib screws.

[Brian Akers]

Depending on the twist of the piece before jointing this could be the proper result. Did you try more than 1 board?

What is your reference when setting the knives? I use the out feed table with a short reference straightedge. I turn the head so the knife at top dead center and drag a thin piece of paper between knife and reference while adjusting the jib screws.

This is the method I used here:

https://youtu.be/2u8OAS8-xJY

This was the only piece today. It's just a piece of pine 2x4 I had laying around. I'll try another piece tomorrow.

[Andrew Hughes]

I think you should get a machinist presion straight edge if you really want to shim your tables in alinement if it needs it.
That level is not good enough and could be sagging.
Messing with the ends of the table will tip the opposite corners.This will cause foul language and heavy drinking.:eek:

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

When using the jointer one side of the board ends up shorter than the other. Not the ends but across the board. It's a little over an 1/8th off. Is this a blade issue or co-planer issue?




If the faces are flat, then there's no issue at all.
The act of making one surface flat will create non parallel faces. The second side should be surfaced with a planer.

[Ronald Blue]

What Gerry said. The only result you want is a flat surface off the jointer. If you end up with parallel surfaces that's just luck because it isn't anything you should expect.

[Al Launier]

"When using the jointer one side of the board ends up shorter than the other. Not the ends but across the board. It's a little over an 1/8th off. Is this a blade issue or co-planer issue?"
If, by this you mean that the thickness across the width of the board varies, resulting in a "clapboard", then I experienced the same thing with my Ridgid Jointer (JP06101)

I related this problem on http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?227006-Ridgid-J-P-Problem&highlight= and then highly recommended this book to others on
A Highly Recommended Book http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?238841-A-Highly-Recommended-Book!&highlight=

This is a comprehensive book entitled "CARE and REPAIR of SHOP MACHINES", A Complete Guide to Setup, Troubleshooting, and Maintenance authored by JOHN WHITE. Let me say this is an extremely detailed and well written book with clearly stated procedures for maintaining shop machine tools. I followed the procedure detailed by John White and damn if that didn't completely take care of a jointer problem I had. The tables were not co-planar and required shimming to correct – a relatively easy fix. I can now enjoy jointing wood with complete confidence.

[Brian Akers]

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I got the book too. So I still have some questions though. Mainly were to start. So, lots of guides say I should make sure the tables are aligned to the cutter head. Both of mine are not... So I wasn't getting a squared face to edge. So I took all the shims out and starting over. So no shims anywhere at the moment. First, neither table is lined up with the cutter head. The outfeed is low on the fence side and the infeed is low on the non-fence side. So where do I start shimming? The cutter head to match one table or the other? Or just start shimming the tables?
Thanks guys!

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

Your outfeed table is the most important. You need to make it parallel to the knife otherwise you'll never have a flat board. (you will induce twist)

After is the infeed table, it needs to be parallel to knives as well.

Then you should just shim the minimum to get them both coplanar at the ends.

I know it's a bit of a pain, but you only need to do it once or twice in the life of the machine when done properly.

[James Gunning]

Brian,

One thing that has not been mentioned is the use of a dial indicator. Fairly inexpensive ones with mag bases can be had now, and they will be more accurate than the dragging ruler and paper method. You can check the inner surfaces of the outfeed vs. infeed tables, and set the height of the knives relative to the tables. Also, the dial indicators are useful in setting up many other machines.

[John TenEyck]

As Sebastian said, start with the outfeed table. Get it parallel with the cutter head, or if that's not possible then adjust the knives to be parallel with the outfeed table. Then work on getting the infeed table in the same plane with the out feed table. A straight edge and flashlight is all you need to gauge your progress.

John

[Brian Akers]

So after getting the outfeed aligned with the cutter head do I shim the infeed? Most of the directions I've read recommend not shimming the infeed since that is the one that is moved.

[John TenEyck]

Ideally, you won't have to shim it, but if won't align with the outfeed table then I don't see much choice. But start by making sure the gibs are snugged up. If those are loose (at all) the infeed table will sag down at the front.

John

[Andrew Hughes]

Before you get all wrapped up n shimming you might what to take off the tables and check and clean the Dt ways.Hope you have a precision straight edge.
I don't want to discount what others have suggested.
Both procedures are a lot of work.
Good luck