Yeah! The Powermatic 3520A works. But questions??

[Steve Mathews]

The Powermatic 3520A that I just purchased and brought home works. It was a real bugger getting it unloaded off my pickup and assembled but I managed to do it myself. After putting together the lower assembly I tackled the rust on the ways. I wet sanded the surface first with 120 grit paper and then 220 grit. The rust was completely gone after a few hours of work and only slight staining remains. There are no pits as the rust seemed to just cake on the surface. Any suggestions on removing the stains?

I wasn't able to run the lathe before purchasing it because power was not available but I lucked out there too. It seems to run fine - not a hint of bearing noise or wobble. The VFD doesn't light up or display anything though. Is that normal?

I plan to take off the OneWay vacuum pump adapter tomorrow and play around with the lathe some more. The lathe had a chuck on it and I was finally able to see the manufacturer today. It's a Vicmarc and it's apparently made in Australia. Is that a good one?

[Brice Rogers]

Seems like you got a real treasure there. The vacuum pump adapter has value as does the vicmark, which is a perfectly good chuck.

Regarding the display not working - - if there is an RPM display and it is blank, that is not normal, but I suspect that the repair assemblies probably won't break the bank. If I were you, I'd check to make sure that all of the wires are connected, and that all of the connectors are corrosion free. Perhaps the display being blank is just a bad connection. Also, check the mfr's site and/or eBay to see what it might cost to replace the assembly. Worst case, a tachometer could probably be bought off of ebay.

Regarding the remaining stains on the bed, I personally wouldn't bother to take off any more metal. They are purely cosmetic. Perhaps others may differ. But as long as the lathe ways are flat and smooth and the tailstock slides around okay, then I'd leave well enough alone. If this was a metal, rather than a wood lathe, I suspect that the owner would only have sparingly used a fine grit scotch brite or steel wool pad with some lubricant. BTW, now that the ways are clean, I recommend oiling them before they re-rust/oxidize.

[Brice Rogers]

Here is a secondary market tachometer: http://www.easttexaswoodturners.org/tips-tach.htm

Here is another one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MachTach-Machine-Digital-Tachometer-Kit-RPM-SFM-any-Lathe-Mill-Drill-Press-/322143978319?hash=item4b0147034f:g:yDUAAOSwjVVVl~A A

I suspect that there are other secondary tachs as well....

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

the display on VFD is not RPMs. it's some other number, so don't worry about trying to get an RPM on it.

I don't recall if mine ever shows anything on it...but it's on the back of the lathe, so I don't ever look at it.

[William C Rogers]

Steve, congrats on your lathe. You got a great deal.

I bought this for less than $10 to check my rpm. Accurate to within 20 rpm comparing on my Delta midi belt lathe.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Laser-Photo-Tachometer-Non-Contact-RPM-Tach-Meter-Motor-Speed-Gauge-USA-/231759126174?hash=item35f5eb9e9e:g:P7MAAOSwLzdWTph j
and it works fine.

[Roger Chandler]

The 3520 "A" model does not have RPM readout.....they put that in on the 3520 "B" model....just FYI.

[Steve Mathews]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'll probably leave the VFD alone and skip getting a separate tachometer for now. I want to get some experience turning something before expanding the capabilities of the machine. I don't have any gouges or chisels yet so they should probably be my priority, that and some casters or something to move the lathe to its resting place in the shop. Did I mention this machine is heavy.

On the rust again. I've dealt with rust on bare metal before but this seemed different. There were a few spots where the headstock, banjo and tailstock sat that was completely rust free. The adjacent rusted surface was raised somewhat. While wet sanding the entire length of the ways (with a sanding block) it was doing its work on the rust but didn't even scratch the clean surface. After removing only the rust the entire surface was smooth and without any pits. The only thing that remained were the stains, the same kind of stains that are on some of my other machines with cast iron tops. And yes, after cleaning the ways I applied some WD40 to prevent it from rusting again. I plan to clean that off today and apply some way oil.

[Doug Ladendorf]

You did great! It's a good lathe and with the vacuum adapter and chuck a great deal. Vicmarc chucks are arguably the best available. That's what I switched to. Leave the "stains" on the iron. That's character. :)

For tools, if you want to invest in quality look at Thompson and D-Way. A good set to start would include a spindle roughing gouge, parting tool, 1/2" bowl gouge, 3/8" spindle gouge and a 1" skew. A scraper would be useful too depending on what you plan to do.

Doug

[Joe Kaufman]

I don't know if anyone has mentioned it but there is useful info and links here........
http://mustardmonster.weebly.com/

Be sure to clean up the sliding surface (bottom side) of the banjo also. Suggest you disassemble the banjo then remove any rust. I'd start with a wire brush, then 220 wet & dry with mineral spirits or WD40 as a solvent/lubricant. Wash out with warm soapy water to get rid out the grit. Don't lubricate the sliding cam surface when you reassemble or you will probably find the banjo won't hold it's locked down position.

[Barry Richardson]

Congrats Steve, I just bought a used 3520a a few months ago. It's been great so far. I had digital readout on my prior lathe, but I don't miss it, not a big deal to me. Vicmarc Chucks are top of the line..... Have fun with your new toys!

[robert baccus]

Just a FYI. If you want totally clean iron use a rust remover containing phosphoric acid--follow directions. WD 40 is a joke as a rust preventer.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Actually, in 2012 Fine Woodworking magazine did a side by side test of 20 or so rust prevention products. WD-40 was in the top group of preventing rust. It did better than Boeshield T9 and paste wax. Whatever you use its important to reapply every few months. I have several cans of WD-40 around anyway so it's an easy wipedown and gets done.

[Steve Peterson]

Here is a secondary market tachometer: http://www.easttexaswoodturners.org/tips-tach.htm

Here is another one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MachTach-Machine-Digital-Tachometer-Kit-RPM-SFM-any-Lathe-Mill-Drill-Press-/322143978319?hash=item4b0147034f:g:yDUAAOSwjVVVl~A A

I suspect that there are other secondary tachs as well....

I have one like the second link and it works great for calibrating the speeds on my Oneway 1224. I only needed to use it once for each belt position then I wrote the values next to the tick marks around the dial.

Steve

[robert baccus]

I agree that waxes and boshield are very poor rust preventers. Years of duck hunting and guiding convinced me WD 40 is a joke--go to commercial rust proofers on Google.

[John K Jordan]

Actually, in 2012 Fine Woodworking magazine did a side by side test of 20 or so rust prevention products. WD-40 was in the top group of preventing rust. It did better than Boeshield T9 and paste wax. Whatever you use its important to reapply every few months. I have several cans of WD-40 around anyway so it's an easy wipedown and gets done.

The WD-40 warning gets read and and passed on over and over - I've heard that for decades. I find it great for many things in the shop and around the farm. Like many lubricants it is not permanent and not appropriate for many tasks.

For the lathe bed I like to use Renaissance Wax.

Another method of rust control may be appropriate for certain cast irons, especially those slightly porous. I have a Robland/Laguna sliding table on my PM66. Their instructions for cast iron: rub talcum powder into the metal with a blackboard eraser once a week. They say this fills the pores and keeps out moisture. I've been doing this and it seems to work great. It also lets things slide easily, won't get gummy, and won't attract dust. You have to use the real talc and not the baby powder which may have cornstarch and other ingredients.

JKJ

[Prashun Patel]

Regarding your stains, you can always polish them away with a random orbit sander and some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Personally, I wouldn't do that. Rust likes shiny. Let a patina build over time. That will actually help your lathe be slightly more rust resistant. I notice my ways don't rust as quickly as they did when they were new - and I turn a good deal of wet wood. Besides, you'll get plenty of matching stains over time.

All that being said, make sure you are persnickety about vaccuuming dust around switch boxes and all metal parts and wiping clean immediately after turning.

[Dennis Peacock]

I have been protecting all my cast iron surfaces with regular old Johnson's Paste Wax for the past 20 years now. Never a problem and no residual rust to show up. My shop does not have A/C for the hot months but I do have heat for the winter months. All I know is what I use and have done for many years now. Love my 3520A....still in use today. And no...it does not have a RPM display. Just dial up to a comfortable speed and start turning. :D

[David Delo]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax on both of my bandsaws that have cast iron tops and it works great. On my 3520B I've found it to be not worth the time to even put it on. Immediate rust when the shavings hit the bed. Tried just about everything know with varying degrees of success but the only thing for me that's worked worth a plug nickel is Fluid Film. Convinced me that not all cast iron is aged the same even among the same manufacturer.