What types of hardwood take a dye really well?

[Craig Behnke]

i'm making a large lazy Susan to look like the tartan pattern of the Welsh family name Roberts. I need to make three shades of blue and 1 shade of red. I'm thinking of using a dye (like aniline dye) to get the desired shades of blue and red. I've only dyed wood one time and it wasn't a great success.

What type of common hardwoods (meaning readily available from most suppliers) take a dye really well and go pretty deep into the grain so that it can withstand some sanding and finishing work without losing the color?
Thanks for the help.

[James Gunning]

I know in my limited experience red oak works well with Trans tint alcohol dye followed by stain if required. The pieces were finish sanded prior to dye application, and the alcohol dye didn't really raise the grain.

[Jamie Buxton]

Years ago I spent quite a bit of time trying to dye veneer through and through. I wanted veneer I could sand. I tried pressure-cooking and all sorts of things, but never did succeed. I suggest you just buy veneer that's already dyed. Certainly Wood sells it -- https://www.certainlywood.com/results-woodmenu.php?name=DYED%20VENEER&menu=Flat%20cut . Another source is B&B veneers -- http://www.wood-veneers.com/index.htm .

[Rick Whitehead]

I've had success in dying poplar with water-based aniline dye. It soaked right in, and gave an even color without any pre-treatment.
How are you planning to avoid bleed-over between adjacent colors?
Rick

[John TenEyck]

No dye that you and I use goes very deep into the wood; they certainly will not withstand sanding w/o first sealing them in and adding some sort of topcoat. I would look at pre-dyed veneer, as mentioned, and get a CNC shop to cut the patterns you need.

John

[Craig Behnke]

How are you planning to avoid bleed-over between adjacent colors?
Rick

I was thinking of dying the component pieces, then doing a glue up,...a method similar to how an open weave cutting board design is made. Not sure if that is the route to go but I'll experiment.

[Rick Whitehead]

I was thinking of dying the component pieces, then doing a glue up,...a method similar to how an open weave cutting board design is made. Not sure if that is the route to go but I'll experiment.

How thick are your component pieces? Are you working with veneer, or thicker pieces?
If you're working with thicker pieces,your plan should work. It would probably help to coat the pieces with Sealcoat (except the gluing surface) before gluing up.If you have to do any sanding after glue-up, you'll probably have to re-touch your dyed areas. Just be careful when approaching the joints between the colors.
Hope this helps, and good luck with the project.
Rick

[Frank Drew]

In my experience, ash takes to aniline dies really well, although light-fastness isn't guaranteed with those dies unless you take steps to ensure it.