Miter sqaures

[lowell holmes]

There has been a lot of discussion on this site lately concerning miter squares.

I'm curious why with the popularity of combination squares, why a miter square is needed. I have a 6" and a 12" combination square.

Also, a miter gage set to 45 degrees will do the job as well.

[Bill Houghton]

Convenience. A combination square can be awkward for certain miter layouts. And, yes, you can set an adjustable bevel, but it's an extra step, and then you have to be confident that you don't bump it and knock it out of alignment.

[Jim Koepke]

A fixed 45º - 135º gauge is much more convenient than a combination square or a bevel gauge. When checking a miter cut it is handy being able to quickly check from either or both sides of the cut.

If one crossed my path with a longer blade it would likely be bought and taken for a ride home.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I understand that a full toy box is the goal of all woodworkers,:) however, the 6" combination square (from Lowes) makes an excellent substitute.

[lowell holmes]

Jim, you said "When checking a miter cut it is handy being able to quickly check from either or both sides of the cut."

For the life of me, I don't understand what can't be checked with the small 6" combination square. The one I bought at Lowes is dead on at 45 degrees and only cost a few dollars.
I made a wooden square with a thick handle so I could check the mid leg brace between adjacent legs for square. A miter square would be easy to make. You could make a 22.5 degree, a 30 degree, or what ever angle you want.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim, you said "When checking a miter cut it is handy being able to quickly check from either or both sides of the cut."

For the life of me, I don't understand what can't be checked with the small 6" combination square. The one I bought at Lowes is dead on at 45 degrees and only cost a few dollars.
I made a wooden square with a thick handle so I could check the mid leg brace between adjacent legs for square. A miter square would be easy to make. You could make a 22.5 degree, a 30 degree, or what ever angle you want.

The blade on my fixed miter square makes both 45º and 135º in relation to the main stock. I haven't figured how to measure 135º with a combination square. Besides, I am not much a fan of the combination squares even though I do have a few of them. The one with the adjustable angle is nice, but a fixed gauge is less bother.

Making them for other angles is a great way to go. I do have a lot of bevel gauges. So far they are easier to set than to make particular fixed angle models.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I see, (I think), you want to measure the angle on the wood, you're not talking about layout. I was fixated on layout. I don't think I ever had the occasion to measure 135 degrees. I have measured 45 degrees many times. I have a difficult time visualizing a solid 135 degree piece other than a raised panel and that would be on the face of the panel.

[Jim Koepke]

When a 45º miter is cut, the pointed side is at 45º. The other side of the with the wide angle is 135º.

A picture is worth many words:

339235

One side of the blade to the stock is 45º the other side is 135º.

135 + 45 = 180

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I understand the 45 degree cut, But I don't recall ever cutting a piece of wood to 135 degrees. What would you be building?

[Jim Koepke]

I understand the 45 degree cut, But I don't recall ever cutting a piece of wood to 135 degrees. What would you be building?

It all depends where you establish your point of reference. On a miter box both marks are labeled 45º. One is actually 135º.

When cutting miters and shooting for perfection I often read both sides and adjust as needed.

339254

It helps to fit the corners.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I'll give you that your miter square is a sexy tool. And that is reason enough to have one.
I do admire your miter square and would want to show it off if I had one.
I'm considering making one.

However, I think I could check the corners with a combination square and I probably would use my 6" square.

[Jim Koepke]

I'll give you that your miter square is a sexy tool. And that is reason enough to have one.
I do admire your miter square and would want to show it off if I had one.
I'm considering making one.

However, I think I could check the corners with a combination square and I probably would use my 6" square.

Well, that isn't my miter square as the picture was just the first image to show up in a web search. I couldn't find an image of mine right away. A bit more digging found this:

339302

It is up above my right hand. It isn't quite as sexy as the other, but it does have its own resting place on my try square rack.

But I was thinking about this while remaking my shooting board yesterday. (see my post Oh Shoot!) When a 45º wedge is used to shoot mitered corners the angle to the face of the work is 135º.

In my post the wedge was cut for ~17º but there really would be no place to check that angle for the work being done. One would need a gauge with the supplementary angle, 163º, to check the work if it had to be accurate.

jtk

[george wilson]

You can change your mis spelled thread title by pressing the "go advanced" button. It allows corrections then. Thought this would be useful info.

[Jim Koepke]

You can change your mis spelled thread title by pressing the "go advanced" button. It allows corrections then. Thought this would be useful info.

Not sure to what you are referring George. Should it be Oh Chute?

jtk

[Jim Davis]

I've read all the posts and can't see any advantage of the miter square over a combination square, BUT, I really like my 1937 Stanley miter square. I also have a couple of Stanley try squares and four or five combination squares--a couple of Starrets and a Union Caliper square that was made only one year.

I have ENUFF squares. Won't be buying any more. I need to be thinking about whether some of my grandkids should end up with particular tools I have.

[Jim Koepke]

I've read all the posts and can't see any advantage of the miter square over a combination square

When working with moldings it is often easier to measure an angle from a flat back than a curvaceous front.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I've read all the posts and can't see any advantage of the miter square over a combination square, BUT, I really like my 1937 Stanley miter square. I also have a couple of Stanley try squares and four or five combination squares--a couple of Starrets and a Union Caliper square that was made only one year.

I have ENUFF squares. Won't be buying any more. I need to be thinking about whether some of my grandkids should end up with particular tools I have.

The other part of the equation is that we all need one of each kind of tool. Let's don't forget that.:)

[Mike Holbrook]

Jim you reverse symbols too don't you: square vs sqaures, is probably what George is referencing. I am guessing you got ahead of yourself typing the a before the u and still may not see it. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim you reverse symbols too don't you: square vs sqaures, is probably what George is referencing. I am guessing you got ahead of yourself typing the a before the u and still may not see it. Don't ask me how I know this.

I can not change that as I am not the OP of this thread. But yes, being dyslexic those errors often get past me.

The other problem with editing a post is there is a time limit on how long after the post is made one can edit things.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I can not change that as I am not the OP of this thread. But yes, being dyslexic those errors often get past me.

The other problem with editing a post is there is a time limit on how long after the post is made one can edit things.

jtk

I am the original poster and I can't change it either.:(

[Jim Koepke]

I am the original poster and I can't change it either.:(

Well, it seems to have taken someone known for his keen eye toward details to take notice.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Jim, never thought of checking both sides...nice tip, thank you.