Suggestions to fix mistake on tabletop

[Lester Sak]

I'm building Darrell Peart's Rafter Tail Coffee table (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/tweakingGGopener.jpg), and so far so good until tonight. I was using the patterns needed to rout the tabletop, and on the home stretch the template slipped and the router bit gouged the edge (see where the pencil is pointing below. I've included a pic of a good corner as well). I'd like to try to save the tabletop if possible but I've never tried to repair an edge of a board so looking for suggestions on the best approach to try. If you don't think the result will be worth the effort, I'm ok with that. I've already got close to 60 hours into this, so if I need to build a new top I will. (Hoping I won't though, lol).

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Thanks,
Les

[Dan Hahr]

Make the table top about 1/4 narrower by ripping off the bad edge. Lay out the pattern and make sure it is tight! Usually, there is enough of an overhang that 1/8' on both sides isn't noticeable.

Dan

[Dave Zellers]

This seems totally fixable but I guess it depends on what you consider acceptable. Making it narrower is an option as mentioned, as is ripping off the bad edge and gluing on a strip to bring it back to full width. Assuming you can match the grain well enough to not be noticeable. What about re-routing all the indents to match the inner most point of the mistake?

Another consideration is, if you do make a new piece, will you be able to use the wood of the failed top elsewhere in the table? Maybe that would make it more tolerable.

If you don't mind- what is that wood? Is it really gray?

[Jim Becker]

In addition to Dan's suggestion, you may with VERY careful matching be able to rip off a strip following the grain line, gluing on a new piece to entirely replace that edge and then re-routing that side with the template. The material you are using just might work for that if you pick the right glue line (which may not be exactly parallel to the current cut edge.

Alternatively you might be able to splice in a patch by creating an a small, angled/irregular wedge of material that is a match for the grain and color in that area.

I think you can fix this...consider carefully and work meticulously to make it invisible. Fixing "oops" is where craftsmanship shines!

[Lester Sak]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I had thought of ripping and gluing a strip, then re-routing the profile, but I don't have any scraps long enough so I'd need to buy another board and try to grain match it. Since the top is small, if it comes to that I may just make a new top. My hope was that there was a way to invisibly splice in a patch as Jim suggested, which I will try first. If I have problems getting it to blend in, I can always go to the other 2 options.

Dave - The wood is African Sapele and no, it's not gray just bad lighting, lol. Here's a better pic:

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[Pat Barry]

I'd re-machine the top just a bit narrower (bring the entire edge down to equal the depth of the mistake) and save the existing top which looks great by the way. This would make the existing top maybe what, an 1/8" narrower? I think the patching would be fine somewhere other than the top. You really don't want to be looking at a patched top the rest of your life

[Lester Sak]

I'd re-machine the top just a bit narrower (bring the entire edge down to equal the depth of the mistake) and save the existing top which looks great by the way. This would make the existing top maybe what, an 1/8" narrower? I think the patching would be fine somewhere other than the top. You really don't want to be looking at a patched top the rest of your life

Thanks Pat, this does make alot of sense. Dave suggested the same thing but it didn't sink in when I first read it. Gonna try this tonight!

[Prashun Patel]

I bet the hole is slightly eccentric. Even if it were perfect, making a dowel with the right orientation might be more work than it's worth. Also, it will ultimately look like a plug.

If it were me, I'd rip off the edge, re-glue a new strip(s), plane it flush, then re-rout the profile.

Nice glue-up! I'm doing an edge grain sapelle countertop right now, and aspire to this level of seamlessness.

[Lester Sak]

Thanks Prashun. A plug was my first thought, but didn't think I could make it work. I'm going to re-rout that edge and then re-profile the side. If the results are good, I don't need to buy more material, but if I'm not happy with it I can also rip the edge and re-glue a new strip. I appreciate all of the feedback, it really helps to talk things through before deciding on a strategy. You guys are great!

BTW, I used dowels for the glue-up:

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[Mel Fulks]

I think a skinny diamond shape would be much better than a plug. Since you have scraps of the same wood it could be patched so that even you would not notice it. Indeed,you would take pride in it and gleefully point it out to friends who can't find it. A good place to use the gelatin glue George Wilson has mentioned.

[Kevin L. Waldron]

Might effect your concept or view but I personally might band/attach something like ebony/persimmon blackened or a contrasting wood to the outer edges. Noticed pegs are contrasting on the table I looked at after I googled the table......I wasn't familiar with the work.... I'm not a purest anyway.

Blessings

[Lester Sak]

I tried Dave and Pat's suggestion (rout back to bring the entire edge down to equal the depth of the mistake) and I'm happy with the results. Thanks to all for weighing in!

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[Dave Zellers]

Well done!

Plus, it's not gray anymore! :cool:

[Randy Red Bemont]

Well done!

Plus, it's not gray anymore! :cool:

+1. Great save and very nice top.

Red

[Lester Sak]

Well done!

Plus, it's not gray anymore! :cool:


+1. Great save and very nice top.

Red

Thanks guys :D

[David Helm]

Not a suggestion for a fix, but maybe an alternative. A few years ago I participated in a class with Darrell. He was using glass tops on his rafter tail tables then. I built two of them, one end table and one coffee table. They both have 1/4 inch tempered glass tops. Works very well and gets away from slipped templates.

[Jim Becker]

Wow, that top looks great! And that very small decrease in width to fix isn't going to matter much in the end, either, I suspect.

[Lester Sak]

Wow, that top looks great! And that very small decrease in width to fix isn't going to matter much in the end, either, I suspect.

Thanks Jim. I'm routing the rafter tails that support the top tonight. I'll just adjust the length of the cross pieces slightly so the size relationship remains the same.
BTW, my wife didn't notice the difference in width so it was a home run :)