Chain saw in the shop - wood holding solutions?

[Dan Forman]

I have a small and very crowded basement shop, and am looking for ideas on how to hold wood for various chain saw cutting operations to be done inside with an electric chainsaw. I do most of the preparation outdoors, but would like to be able to do things like rounding off corners of bowl blanks, or roughing out spindle blanks indoors on occasion. The most challenging thing is trying the counteract the tendency of the wood to move, either in the direction of the chain upon contact, or tipping down from the wight of the saw if trying to cut the corner from a relatively small, light bowl blank. I certainly don't want to stabilize things with my feet, as I am quite attached to them, at least for the moment. I'm hoping that some of you might have come up with some elegant solutions that don't take up much storage space, and can post some pictures.

Thanks, Dan

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I’ve used a piece of Willow log as it doesn’t split easily and isn’t very hard.

I would place the log or half log on the block of willow and hammer two large screwdrivers in on the side of the piece to be cut, it worked for me and I used the same block for many years.

You could also build a saw buck, but probably uses more space than a log, this one by John Lannom I think is a very nice one, with no metal in the top boards, held in place with dowels and easy to renew if chewed up.

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[daryl moses]

I use something similar to what Leo shows [mines not as nice] to hold my "rounds" on. I mostly just use it to cut the rounds to length, usually a couple of inches longer than the width then cut the log lengthwise on either side of the pith and slice an inch or so off the bark side. I seldom cut them to round or cut the corners off with my chainsaw I prefer to use my bandsaw for that.

[Geoff Whaling]

Dan the saw buck idea is good but you still have the issue of the blank moving (rotating etc) as you knock off the corners with the electric chainsaw. In the past I used a timber sleeper (railway tie or landscaping sleeper) about 12" x 3" and 6' long and a timber version of these, it doesnt have to be elaborate as it can simply be a short length of 3" x 2" about 18" long with a 5/8" hole through the middle to take a suitable length of 1/2" all thread or a bolt. The sleeper with an array of holes lays across two foldable saw bucks (we call them saw horses) and the blank is placed on it then held with the hold downs. I keep a range of various thickness "spacers" to support the end opposite to the blank to be trimmed so that the hold down is near parallel to the sleeper to maximize grip.

Bench hold downs will also do the trick, and so will the vast range of accessories including the fancy Leigh hold downs and an incredible range of toggle clamps available these days - however they place metal within striking range of the saw chain - not real clever. At least with the scrap timber hold down if any contact is made by the saw chain there will be no harm done.

Very commendable that you are eliminating hazards and reducing risk.

[Steve Drinkut]

I use this bowl buck design I copied from somewhere and a bunjee cord
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[Hayes Rutherford]

I occasionally do it right on the lathe. With the blank mounted by screw chuck, face plate or even between centers, and lock the spindle to keep it from moving. The lathe becomes a dynamic balancer and the heavy side goes down showing you where more needs trimmed for balance.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

And yes you can also do it on the lathe, I certainly have done that a few times, just cut it to round with the gouge rather than the Chainsaw :eek: :D :cool:

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[Dan Forman]

Thanks for the replies!

Dan

[Doug Ladendorf]

I use this bowl buck design I copied from somewhere and a bunjee cord
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This looks very straight-forward and useful for the job. I hadn't seen that design before.

[John Carmack]

I use two cinder blocks with big Irwin clamps. I wedge the wood between the blocks and clamp 'em tight around the piece and stand on them when I cut or drill big holes. Pretty good makeshift vice for large pieces of wood that are somewhat round.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have a couple sawbucks. None as nice as Leo's.... I'd suggest using a sawbuck vice chainsawing on the lathe. A slip, jump or kick, and you chain runs into the ways, tailstock, live center or chuck. If you're lucky. If you'r unlucky, my lathe electronics is real close to the headstock. No good can come from that picture.

Love that idea of the bungee cord...... Thanks! I'll use that idea.

[Ron Rutter]

I have knocked off some corners with an electric chain saw without problems but mainly use the bandsaw which obviously you don't have.
If you had a piece of rod threaded to suit a faceplate you could set it up vertically on a stand to suit & not have anything that would interfere!
Ron.

[Peter Blair]

I happend to have a couple of older B&D saw horse thingies to which I added a couple of cedar 4 x 4. Works pretty well of me.
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[Michael Mills]

I use the vise on my work bench for cutting down the pith or slabbing. Note the 2X4 below to keep the chainsaw from getting into the vice guides.
If I did not have a work bench I would use a B&D type as Peter shows. Lots of other uses for the B&D style and it folds up for storage.

For knocking off the corners I use a bench holdfast on one end, then loosen rotate and cut the other two corners off. I have never had the log section roll. You can use simpler (less expensive - $25?) holdfast to give the same hold. Plywood down to protect the bench top.

[Ron Rutter]

Peter. Saw horses work great for slabbing lengthwise but not for lopping off corners!
For everyones info, for ripping logs lengthwise a chainsaw tooth profile straight across chisel like is best. Less stringy.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Well less expensive is certainly possible, and at a height you can work at comfortably, that is what I have used for years, both cutting outside with the gas powered chainsaw, or in the shop with the electric chainsaw.

It was as I said earlier, a block of Willow wood, wedges and or 2 long flat screwdrivers hammered into the block on either side of the log (to halve or slab it) or beside the piece to cut the corners off of it.

Here are a couple of pictures, the first one shows where I cut a log into 4 pieces, by not cutting all the way to the bottom, I first made the 3 cuts almost to the bottom and then finished the cuts, the cutting is at a comfortable height, for both lifting the block and to do the sawing, a lower cost than a piece of Willow log to use as the cutting block is hard to do, and that block did last me quite a few years, a new one is easy to get.

Same piece of Willow block used to cut the Beech log pieces and my neighbors Sugar Maple and used on many other pieces of logs :).

The way to prevent the long strings of wood to plug up the saw is to cut on a slight angle, either up or down, that way the strings are shorter and eject without a problem

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[Curtis Myers]

I have issues bending over for long periods. I built a stand using cheep particle board from big box store. I think a sheet was less then $15.00. Used half of the sheet and some 2x4. I was a little unsure at first if I trusted the sturdiness but it has proved to work well. I do all my chainsawing outside.

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