Bow saw and blade project / My "hardware store" saw

[Luke Dupont]

I'm in the process of making a blade for my bow saw, and have the frame roughed out.

I've made much fancier bow saws in the past, but never a turning saw. For this saw, I'm going quite simple and functional, and utilizing hardware (bolts for the pins, and threaded rod and wingnuts for the tension). My goal is a general, all purpose saw for joinery, ripping, and maybe some extra blades for crosscuts and turning/curves.

It uses a simple H joint which allows me to easily make different stretchers for different blade lengths, and I can adjust the depth of the cut for particularly wide boards, or if I want more tension.

I also have a string and toggle for it which I often prefer using, which isn't pictured here. The blade is incomplete, and I will likely be replacing it at some point as the steel I am using is a bit too thin; though, it seems that I can tension it enough to make it work.

I'm using Paul Seller's method of recutting the teeth using a hacksaw in conjunction with the saw file. The teeth are 9TPI. I started off trying to do 16TPI, but that was a bit too small for my skill level and I couldn't get them evenly spaced. I'd definitely recommend going a bit larger for your first blade.
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A picture of the frame.
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You can see that, despite the blade being very thin, I can get a decent level of tension such that it doesn't seem flex too much. Here, I'm holding the saw blade horizontal, and the saw hangs at about a 45 degree angle under its own weight; it's fairly heavy, as it's made of oak and uses a steel threaded rod for tension.
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I've got some .025" steel coming in that should work better than the very thin .018" stuff that I'm using now. I will say that the thinness of the blade does seem like it will allow for an effortless cut; even with completely dull, barely shaped teeth, it cuts fairly easily already! But this extremely thin steel is hellish on my tools. I've already completely destroyed a hacksaw blade from vibrations and snagging that you get with stock that is too thin. I also destroyed a nicholson saw file, but I think the file itself was bad because I have an older one that is continuing to cut just fine. If anyone has recommendations for good, quality saw files, do tell!

[Luke Dupont]

Update:

Finished the blade! This is currently the best performing saw I own for ripping, I think; out performing my both my panel-rip saw, and my Ryoba. And the 0.018" thick blade is doing just fine. No problem with flexing thus far, surprisingly.

Here it is with the frame and blade finished. I used mineral oil and beeswax on the frame, which is Red Oak. I've got it set up with a toggle here; the cord is waxed cotten.

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A close up of the blade:
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Here it is compared to my 12 TPI tenon saw. Bow saw on the right, tenon saw on the left. One light stroke, and three moderate strokes of equal pressure with each.
The kerf is almost the same; I have a bit too little set on my tenon saw, and it tries to bind in the cut sometimes. I could possibly reduce the set some on my bow saw blade, but it seems to be fine as it is. I'm currently just using a screw driver and a hammer to set/reduce the set in my saws, which isn't the most accurate method -- or, at least, takes a bit of practice and experience!
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[Jeff Bartley]

Luke I saw this linked from the more recent thread on resawing. Good work! Saw looks good. I wonder if old bandsaw blades would work as blade stock?
Of course, if one had old bandsaw blades they might not need a frame-saw but it would be cool to have one regardless.

[William Fretwell]

Fun project. I bought mine for $14 many years ago, very useful saw. Came with 2 blades, thick and thin. German origin with a light frame. An essential tool!

[chris carter]

Luke I saw this linked from the more recent thread on resawing. Good work! Saw looks good. I wonder if old bandsaw blades would work as blade stock?
Of course, if one had old bandsaw blades they might not need a frame-saw but it would be cool to have one regardless.

I used a bandsaw blade for my turning saw. Not only does it work very well, but I have a lifetime supply of blade stock for the saw.

[steven c newman]

Been using mine for a while..
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Blade is from an 18" Butcher's Meat Saw....frame is Maple, all thread is 5/16"
Pattern is from "Traditional Chinese Woodworking" web site.
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Cross cut in Ash..
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9ppi...seems to work...

[Luke Dupont]

Luke I saw this linked from the more recent thread on resawing. Good work! Saw looks good. I wonder if old bandsaw blades would work as blade stock?
Of course, if one had old bandsaw blades they might not need a frame-saw but it would be cool to have one regardless.

Bandsaw blades work, provided that you find one without the terrible "wavy set" that they put on higher tpi blades. Generally you can find them in the 12 / 14 tpi range with decent set. Get a good drill bit though -- they're super hard to drill mounting holes into.

I made a few saws using bandsaw blades, but I ultimately opted to make my own for two main reasons:

1: Bandsaw blades have really aggressive rake / hook teeth, which can be a bit much sometimes.

2: It's hard to find them in wider widths. They're usually about 1/2", which is a bit narrow and makes it hard to track the cut. I'd recommend 1.5" or so for a joinery saw.

Making your own blade isn't difficult, so I definitely recommend giving it a try if you find that you want something a bit better than a bandsaw blade.