Roofing screws recommendation

[Tom M King]

For those of you in the process, or thinking about using metal roofing with exposed fasteners: We've done more replacements on this type of roofing than I would have expected. The main problem is 95% of the time from the screws rusting out.

Brand doesn't seem to matter.


This is what I replace the rusted out, usually #9 screws with: http://www.roofthings.com/12-stainless-steel-screw.html or google can find other suppliers.


That company also sells screws with painted stainless steel caps on regular screws. Those might be okay, and certainly if you need to match a dark color, I'd go with those rather than the screws sold by the places that sell the metal.


It looks like to me all the manufacturers get the metal from the same supplier, and probably the screws too. I expect their roll forming mills probably come from the same place too, since one manufacturer's stuff fits everyone else's.


I'd recommend spending the extra money on getting standing seam, which doesn't have exposed fasteners, if you haven't gotten that far yet.

[Tom M King]

I thought about this too:
I see a lot of screws overdriven, which inverts the cup shaped washer, exposing more of the "rubber". That EPDM washer is supposed to be protected by the inverted bell shaped metal washer over it. Once it's exposed, which is happening with the rusted fasteners, it splits and lets water in. I think the big problem with that came with the availability of 18v impact drivers. Hand a new guy, or one that doesn't care, an 18v impact driver and he can get a lot done in a hurry. That also includes: screw up a lot in a hurry.

I put it on my barn 35 years ago, and that is still fine. I remember using an 18v drill, and expect the metal and screws were still made in the USA back then. An impact driver works fine, but you have to watch what you're doing, and care.

[Jon Endres]

Have installed three metal roofs, all ABC roof panels and screws, all exposed fasteners. The oldest one is about eight years old now and no sign at all of rusting or corrosion. Thanks for the tip on the stainless though, although I imagine they are expensive.

[Tom M King]

The last one was 12 years old. I don't know of any problems with any fastener rusting problems on any newer than that one.

[Wayne Lomman]

I did not know you could get roofing screws that rust. Everything in Australia is minimum hot dip galvanised with colour on the heads after hdg. We only use stainless in severe coastal environments. Cheers

[Bruce Wrenn]

Tom as for panels MBCI has a rolling mill in Colonial Heights. Their trucks deliver to most areas in VA and NC. We bought SS roofing screws from Atlas Bolt and Screw when I was building mini storage buildings.

[Robert Engel]

I think he's got something there.

I have a lot of metal roofs on 4 different buildings on my property.

Leaks occur when the rubber seal allows water to seep in around screw, which subsequently rusts and loosens.

Standing seam is, of course the best, but economies dictate - an equipment shed you build as cheap as you can.

On another note, what's your opinion on screwing in the flats vs. the ridges?? Manufacturers recommend on the flats but I've had a couple roofers refuse to do it.

[Tom M King]

As far as flats versus rib: The ribs on the current stuff are much wider and higher than the 5V tin of old. Of course, 5v was always nailed on top of the ridges, but that was also when state-of-the-art fasteners were twisted nails with lead "seals" that wouldn't possibly seal on the flats. I expect it might move around some fastened only on tops of the ribs. I think I would want it fastened on the flats at least along the lower edge, especially if in high wind risk area.

It's a shame that standing seam costs more per square foot. It really shouldn't since it's the same metal just roll formed into a different shape.

Your particular manufacturer is probably the one closest to you. It looks to me like it's all the same, and one works with the other. I wouldn't be surprised if all the metal came in rolls from the same place, and even the roll formers, or at least the dies as well.

As far as cost, the #9 standard size if you are installing new is 38 bucks to me for a bag of 250, and some less for multiple bags. The #12 replacement screws, if they are going back in the same holes that the rusted #9s came out of, are 70 bucks for a bag of 250 including shipping to where I am. I haven't compared the price to new regular ones, because I haven't bought any regular ones for several years. At that, the price difference is a small part of the job any kind of way, unless of course the most important parts of the job to you are "fast and cheap", as it is to so many.

[Eric Schmid]

I've fastened at both the flats and the ridges on different roofs and neither leak when done properly. My equipment shed roof is 10 years old and fastened at the ridges. Never had a leak. I've done a few roofs for customers and always follow the manufacturer recommendation on those roofs; screws in flats or nails in the ridges.

If screws aren't driven in plumb you can have problems with the gaskets not sealing. Seems to be more of a problem in the valleys.