Oil stone box

[Kenneth Fisher]

Just finished fitting this up last night. Just a piece of scrap 2x4 and a cheap combo stone. I still need to figure out if I want to put a finish on it or not, I'm thinking an oil and wax finish. I also had the idea of gluing leather to the top of the lid to make a strop, not to sure if this is a good idea though.
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[Jim Koepke]

That is a beautiful looking stone holder.

Overtime the oil used on the stone will penetrate the wood.

I messed up one day while using a smaller stone in a holder. I was using it off bench and forgot the stone is just resting in the holder. The stone fell out and now there are two.

I have thought of cleaning it and trying to glue it back together.

jtk

[John Vernier]

Nice box! I find it's best to have a way to keep dust and other crud off of my strop. If you put the strop on the lid, you might end up making a second lid for it!

[Kenneth Fisher]

Thanks Jim, bummer about the stone. Still usable for knives and carving tools though :)

Thanks John, good point. I'll have to think on it some more.

[Graham Haydon]

Love it, very neat work indeed!

[Kenneth Fisher]

Love it, very neat work indeed!

Thank you, your videos are actually the reason I picked up the stone.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Just finished fitting this up last night. Just a piece of scrap 2x4 and a cheap combo stone. I still need to figure out if I want to put a finish on it or not, I'm thinking an oil and wax finish. I also had the idea of gluing leather to the top of the lid to make a strop, not to sure if this is a good idea though.
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As an "accumulator" of stones/boxes, many vintage boxes did have leather affixed to the top for use as a strop.

[Reinis Kanders]

Nice box, I like those curves. I usually brush mine with a couple of coats of shellac.

[Mike Cherry]

Very nice. What method did you use for the recess in the lid and the curves on the base?

[Luke Dupont]

Very nice! Love the curves on the bottom. I made a simpler box for one of my little Arkansas stones out of cherry. It was rather tough as the grain was odd, and I didn't have a router.

I finished mine with several coats of danish oil, followed by orange oil and beeswax. I'd definitely put a finish, otherwise oily metal particles will make your pretty white box rather ugly rather quickly!

[Kenneth Fisher]

The recesses were chopped in with a chisel and then cleared out with a hand router till I hit depth. The curves were done very carefully with a chisel.

I think I'll be putting at least some Danish oil on it, at least give it some protection.

[Kees Heiden]

I coated mine with a lot of varnish in a feeble attempt to keep the oil inside. I don't know yet how succesfull that is going to be!

[Kenneth Fisher]

I decided to put a coat of Danish oil followed by a coat wax, got it all buffed out, glued the leather on top and sharpened a few chisels. So far I really like having everything right there, easy and quick to use.

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I also added super high tech extra grippy no slip death grip feet to it. Clipped finish nails :)

[al heitz]

A piece of leather for a strop on top would be handy. I'm thinking of also adding a thin rubber pad to the bottom to keep the box and stone from moving while sharpening.

[Frederick Skelly]

Nice box. Love the idea of using a 2x4 scrap. Excellent!

[Malcolm Schweizer]

*Applause! Add another vote for the leather strop on top. (Can I copyright that term; "Strop Top"?) I think it would be handy and a space saver over having another piece for the strop. I vote for oil and wax finish as well. It will prevent the wood from soaking up the oil from the stone.

[Jim Koepke]

I am wondering if stones are captured in the box somehow to prevent them from falling out or are they always left loose?

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

I am wondering if stones are captured in the box somehow to prevent them from falling out or are they always left loose?

jtk

I don't know how they're supposed to be, but I make mine fit tightly via friction so they don't fall out, but you can still tap them out. I get a perfect fit by establishing two knife walls (two corners of the stone) and chiseling a very shallow slope down to them so I can then I can lay the stone up against those two walls as a physical reference and precisely mark the other two corners with a knife. I've found it easy to get a perfect fit this way.

This is also the only way I've been able to get a uniformly tight fit on non-tapered dados, and is where I learned the technique (via Paul Sellers). It works wonders!

[Kenneth Fisher]

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it. I did glue some leather to the top and it works like a charm. It's been oiled and waxed and used very frequently. I fit the stone with a loose friction fit, it's a combo stone and I wanted to be able to flip it back and forth between the grits. On both the base and lid I sunk some small finish nails about a 1/2" in then clipped them. This made a great no slip set up, just don't put it on your good furniture :D

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks guys, I'm glad you like it. I did glue some leather to the top and it works like a charm. It's been oiled and waxed and used very frequently. I fit the stone with a loose friction fit, it's a combo stone and I wanted to be able to flip it back and forth between the grits. On both the base and lid I sunk some small finish nails about a 1/2" in then clipped them. This made a great no slip set up, just don't put it on your good furniture :D

I love the nail idea! I was sitting here thinking of how to glue rubber to the bottom -- something which I may still do in case I want to place it on good surfaces, but the nails are a much more solid and easy solution! Everything about your design is simple, and highly functional in a small package.

By the way, what stone do you have? I was thinking of trying a combination India stone (not that I really need another sharpening media, honestly!), but every combination Norton stone that I have seen in the store -- and one that I unwittingly bought, has been cupped on one side, and humped on the other, making sharpening anything a real fun (ehem, impossible!) task.

[Kenneth Fisher]

I love the nail idea! I was sitting here thinking of how to glue rubber to the bottom -- something which I may still do in case I want to place it on good surfaces, but the nails are a much more solid and easy solution! Everything about your design is simple, and highly functional in a small package.

By the way, what stone do you have? I was thinking of trying a combination India stone (not that I really need another sharpening media, honestly!), but every combination Norton stone that I have seen in the store -- and one that I unwittingly bought, has been cupped on one side, and humped on the other, making sharpening anything a real fun (ehem, impossible!) task.

Thanks Luke, I borrowed that one from Mr. Sellers. My stone is an older Norton India combo stone Fine/Coarse, it's 8x2 and was surprisingly flat. By no means perfect, but close enough. So far I'm loving it, super quick and easy for me. It's almost got me thinking of selling my water stones.

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks Luke, I borrowed that one from Mr. Sellers. My stone is an older Norton India combo stone Fine/Coarse, it's 8x2 and was surprisingly flat. By no means perfect, but close enough. So far I'm loving it, super quick and easy for me. It's almost got me thinking of selling my water stones.

Oh? I'm kind of curious now - what project did Paul use cut nails as non-slip spikes on? I am subscribed to his master class stuff and follow his youtube channel, but I haven't gone through all of his project videos yet.

[Kenneth Fisher]

Is an older blog post, he walks thought the making of an oils stone box. If you google Paul sellers oil stone, it should be in the top links.

[Glen Canaday]

I've done similar with a few of mine, and need to do it again for the new stones.

Except that mine still look like 2x4s. In fact, the lids are a second 2x4! The boxes themselves are now 4x4 ;)

[Stewie Simpson]

I have a personal preference to remove the honing stone from its storage box and take advantage of a non slip draw lining material to prevent the stone from moving. Its generally sold in rolls of good length and width that suits a wide range of tasks within woodworking. https://www.masters.com.au/product/900001686/easyliner-super-grip-beige-non-slip-mat-50x200cm.jsp;jsessionid=ts7MqnyyyW+4AkJmLAL8lQ__.n cdlmorasp1203?bmUID=llwcF_3

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/_DSC0162_zpsv59nctlo.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/_DSC0162_zpsv59nctlo.jpg.html)

[Luke Dupont]

I have a personal preference to remove the honing stone from its storage box and take advantage of a non slip draw lining material to prevent the stone from moving. Its generally sold in rolls of good length and width that suits a wide range of tasks within woodworking. https://www.masters.com.au/product/900001686/easyliner-super-grip-beige-non-slip-mat-50x200cm.jsp;jsessionid=ts7MqnyyyW+4AkJmLAL8lQ__.n cdlmorasp1203?bmUID=llwcF_3



I'm a big fan of shelf-liner too. I use it for my diamond stones and such - and anywhere else I don't want something to slip. Works great.

I suppose you could have the best of both worlds; put the shelf liner under the oil stone box! I do kind of like the box as it catches the oil and metal particles and keeps it all from going on your bench top.

[Warren West]

Nice stone holder. I did the nails for feet on mine too. Mine's not as pretty though.