Poplar Bed Build

[Mike Allen1010]

Now that our oldest son is officially a college graduate and gainfully employed (thank you God!), it seems he’s thinking about getting his own place. I guess “date night” at Mom and Dad’s house isn’t ideal.
This thread is a hand tool build of a bed for him in Poplar. He sent me a picture of what he wanted. Only modification is he wants the footboard to be lower so his feet can hang over the edge of the bed (he’s 6‘ 5”).
Here’s the pile of lumber in the driveway. Also includes 8/4 piece of Walnut I just couldn’t pass up, but that’s for another day.


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/1%203_zpsqa1y8dds.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/1%203_zpsqa1y8dds.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/1_zpsx4dekyui.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/1_zpsx4dekyui.jpg.html)

Here’s breaking down the 6/4 rails. Jobs like this provide the feeblest justification for embarrassing number of handsaws – 5 PPI crosscut D-8 makes for quick work.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/2_zpsr2kelh67.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/2_zpsr2kelh67.jpg.html)


Next is smoothing the bedposts, rails and drilling mortises.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/3_zpsdfta1nnj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/3_zpsdfta1nnj.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/4.5_zpsivtuymj0.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/4.5_zpsivtuymj0.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/4_zpsjoqnl38d.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/4_zpsjoqnl38d.jpg.html)

I found a 6/4 piece with interesting figure I’m going to try and squeeze the headboard and footboard out of.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/6_zpsztsp0p5o.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/6_zpsztsp0p5o.jpg.html)


Crosscutting small vertical stiles at the bench hook.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/7_zpspku79udw.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/7_zpspku79udw.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Every project seems to have unanticipated delays for tool maintenance. In this case backsaw needed a quick tune-up (that didn’t take very long), but the most finicky tool in my shop, an ancient 14” Taiwanese band saw, needed a new table/fence, which took forever and I’m them still not sure if it’s cuts straight.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/8_zpson0wratj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/8_zpson0wratj.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/10_zpsgcee6i9c.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/10_zpsgcee6i9c.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/10.5_zpstfrhqzcq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/10.5_zpstfrhqzcq.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/11%201_zpsyfgryz1z.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/11%201_zpsyfgryz1z.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/11%202_zpsjr66iomc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/11%202_zpsjr66iomc.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/11%203_zpsg9v9vwzh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/11%203_zpsg9v9vwzh.jpg.html)


Here is cutting the four shouldered tennon’s for the middle stile in footboard.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/12_zpstqp6xbkl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/12_zpstqp6xbkl.jpg.html)
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/13_zpsootczaxh.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/13_zpsootczaxh.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/14_zpsowtlrlnl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/14_zpsowtlrlnl.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/15_zpsgynks8ea.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/15_zpsgynks8ea.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/16_zpslxh6fi1t.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/16_zpslxh6fi1t.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/17_zpsanjunypn.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/17_zpsanjunypn.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/18_zpsubupew4b.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/18_zpsubupew4b.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/19_zpsedqypc8e.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/19_zpsedqypc8e.jpg.html)


The raised panels for the footboard are really narrow (so it’s low enough for his feet hang over), and plowing grooves in the short vertical frame pieces was easier with saw/chisels than a plow plane.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/20_zpspwvfvcyi.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/20_zpspwvfvcyi.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/21_zps4vurrdbz.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/21_zps4vurrdbz.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/22_zpsfhtmokls.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/22_zpsfhtmokls.jpg.html)


Here are the bedposts morticed for the head/footboard rails.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/23_zpsdaoxf9yl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/23_zpsdaoxf9yl.jpg.html)

Design calls for 1” vertical dividers between the middle and top rails; these will be doweled. The middle stile is more structural and gets M&T’s.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/25_zpsd1objp3z.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/25_zpsd1objp3z.jpg.html)


I added a little cloud lift detail to the bottom rails which will be carried through on all four sides. Sort of matches a Greene & Greene inspired coffee-table.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/26_zpsuuomhbe7.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/26_zpsuuomhbe7.jpg.html)



Here is shaping the curve in the top rail and the dry fit for major foot board elements.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/27_zpskcizzw7o.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/27_zpskcizzw7o.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/28_zpsnxcv9h9w.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/28_zpsnxcv9h9w.jpg.html)


Middle rails are mortised into bedposts and central stile. . The best way for me to get the shoulder to shoulder dimensions right so that everything glues up tight/square is to dry fit and mark shoulders directly off reference pieces.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/29_zpsmhb1uqxr.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/29_zpsmhb1uqxr.jpg.html)


http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/31_zps04g2znpe.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/31_zps04g2znpe.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Here are panels for the footboard that are raised on both sides. The LOML asked me why I raised the inside of the panels because you never see them - dammit I hate it when she’s right.
Short ends were easiest to shape with paring chisels and smooth with a small rabbit plane.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/32.5_zps9ogo5qof.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/32.5_zps9ogo5qof.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/32_zpszv3ngpl8.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/32_zpszv3ngpl8.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/33%202_zpsegw3mjv3.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/33%202_zpsegw3mjv3.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/33%203_zpsh3p3s1sj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/33%203_zpsh3p3s1sj.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/34_zpskxfdimmd.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/34_zpskxfdimmd.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/35_zpsdvvag92b.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/35_zpsdvvag92b.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

Here’s the finished footboard. I’ll add some decorative caps to the posts; what would be a good contrasting wood?

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/36_zpsrku5jx8m.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/36_zpsrku5jx8m.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/37%202_zpsbihbo6gz.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/37%202_zpsbihbo6gz.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20Bed/38_zpsnklnqgoo.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20Bed/38_zpsnklnqgoo.jpg.html)


I suck at finishing. The bed needs to be sort of brown to match other stuff, but at the same time I don’t want to obscure the figure if I can. I would very much appreciate any ideas or suggestions.

Thanks for looking.
All the best, Mike

[Brian Holcombe]

Coming along very nicely Mike!

[Joe Tilson]

Hey Mike,
So far that bed board is looking pretty good. That D-8 looks good too. As far as finishing goes, keep plugging away, you'll make it very nice for your son.
Best wishes,
Joe

[Jim Koepke]

Looks good.

My only question is why a rip handle on a crosscut saw? :confused:

jtk

[bridger berdel]

some of that 8/4 walnut in the first pic.

walnut responds well to iron/vinegar stain. it gets nice and black. plenty of contrast to the poplar.



Here’s the finished footboard. I’ll add some decorative caps to the posts; what would be a good contrasting wood?
Thanks for looking.
All the best, Mike

[ken hatch]

Mike,

Great build. Now tell me the secret to remembering to photograph each of the steps as you go:D.

ken

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Jim Koepke;2571563]Looks good.

My only question is why a rip handle on a crosscut saw? :confused:

jtk[/QUOTE

Hey Jim, I'm no expert, but as far as I know; aside from timber/log saws, the only "carpentry style" saws in 5 PPI pitch were are originally manufactured/ sharpened as rip saws.

That is certainly my experience with all the Disston D-8 thumbholes (like this one) I've run across. Personally , I don't need the thumbhole tote for this saw, but I do like the 5 PPI pitch for crosscutting thick stock. Their a package deal - can't get one without the other.

As I mentioned, most people probably have no interest in a 5 PPI crosscut saw and mine is part of an excuse for having too many saws. In my defense, I helped a friend build a patio cover out of construction lumber, including lots of 4x4's, and the 5 PPI crosscut was at least as fast as the portable, worm drive power saw. Plus I'm way more swole from pushing the handsaw than my buddy pulling the trigger.

Cheers, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

some of that 8/4 walnut in the first pic.

walnut responds well to iron/vinegar stain. it gets nice and black. plenty of contrast to the poplar.

Thanks Bridger, that's exactly the kind of advice I'm looking for. I really appreciate your suggestion - walnut it is!

Still gratefully for any tips on finishing he poplar. I know I need some kind of "brown" stain or dye to match other furniture. Still suck at finishing; when forced to add color, my experience with dyes is better than with stains (which seem to require some kind of artistic ability). Any suggestions much appreciated!

Cheers, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike,

Great build. Now tell me the secret to remembering to photograph each of the steps as you go:D.

ken


Ken, you give me way too much credit. Hours and multiple build steps go by w/o thinking of photo's, especially when I'm struggling. Much easier to remember pics when things are "cruising on autopilot".

See what I did there...- yeah that's right, blatant "piloting" pun :)!!( FYI, I think Ken is a veteran, instructor pilot). Note to self: If I feel compelled to explain pun, probably not entertaining to anyone but me. None the less, one can only take so many deadly serious sharpening theads, etc.

Best, Mike

[John Kananis]

If you prefer dye, trans-tint works well. If you want to stain and have trouble with adding color then gel stain is your friend. I like to use (by the way, I'm no expert in finishing but I do well enough) an oil first to enhance the figure (Danish oil works well for this), then a sanding sealer and finally the gel stain followed by shellac (or more sanding sealer if you're so inclined).

Project is looking good - can't wait to see the rest.

[Frederick Skelly]

If you prefer dye, trans-tint works well. If you want to stain and have trouble with adding color then gel stain is your friend. I like to use (by the way, I'm no expert in finishing but I do well enough) an oil first to enhance the figure (Danish oil works well for this), then a sanding sealer and finally the gel stain followed by shellac (or more sanding sealer if you're so inclined).

Project is looking good - can't wait to see the rest.

Looks great Mike!

If you decide to use dye on poplar, be careful. I was inexperienced and got a lot of blotching on a poplar end table last year (transtint in distilled water). I finally evened it out, but doing so made it so dark that I buried the figure.

Next time, I'd like to try John's second suggestion/method - danish oil, sealer, gel stain, shellac. I think I could make that work. Maybe you can too.

Fred

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks a lot John and Fred for the finishing advice. Fred your scenario is exactly what I'm afraid of.

I know I could go with John's suggestion: "I like to use an oil first to enhance the figure (Danish oil works well for this), then a sanding sealer and finally the gel stain followed by shellac (or more sanding sealer if you're so inclined). I believe this would eliminate the blotching concerns, but challenge with stain is I seem to struggle with spreading the pigment evenly. Maybe t hat's just me

I also like Danish oil first to highlight the figuire; I'm wondering if I can if I can still dye after Danish oil? If yes, does the sanding sealer go on before or after the dye? In other words is it A or B below?

A) Oil, dye, sanding sealer, surface finish

B) Oil, sanding sealer, dye, surface finish (I'm wondering the dye would penetrate the sanding sealer?)


For surface finish I'm thinking probably varnish or Lacquer because I want something more durable than shellac, which is my preferred finish for most stuff that doesn't get a lot of wear and tear.

Thanks again for the help! All suggestions much appreciated.

Best,Mike

[John Kananis]

I would go a different route actually. Dye first, then oil. Sanding sealer is going to be used sparingly at first (diluted with some alcohol) on endgrain (just enough to keep the color even). Then, I'd give it a regular coat of sealer after the oil.

Don't be afraid of gel stain, really. If you follow the original process it will look very even. Definitely try it out on some scrap first - you'll get an idea what it will look like when done and gain a tiny bit of experience for confidence. A single small plank won't take long to experiment on.

EDIT: Ensure the dye has dried before adding the oil or you'll seal water into your project.

[Jerry Olexa]

Very nice work...Thanks for the pics.

[Stew Denton]

Mike, I am no expert on finishing either, but do have a couple of thoughts.

I definitely like the Danish Oil option, I use it on fir projects that I care about. It helps bring out the grain and even the grain. Fir will never be curly maple, but I have built projects out of it because of the relatively low cost, and I think the Danish Oil gives the fir a very nice appearance. It brings out the grain, but at the same time prevents the "in your face" appearance that you often get on untreated fir that has been given a medium to somewhat dark stain.

If you go with stain or dye, I think poplar may be a little like white pine, in that the stuff will really sop up the stain, I don't know if uneven absorbance of the stain at the growth rings will make for a blotchy job that shows too much contrast, but the Danish Oil first, sometimes followed with some sort of sealer thinned way down, like 10% urethane in 90% paint thinner, THINLY brushed on will help even out how the lumber takes the stain, and cut down on the blotchiness. One thing on this, let the Danish Oil have a lot of time to cure, but remember that it actually soaks down into the wood. I say this, because the thinned finish will potentially strip out some of the Danish oil. That grain in your poplar is beautiful. The Danish Oil will help bring that out, and make it even more beautiful.

The thinned urethane (or some other type of finish) helps because you are blocking, to an extent, how much faster the soft part of the growth rings absorb the stain as opposed to the harder part of the growth rings, so you get a much less striking contrast. The thinned urethane soaks into the lumber when you put it on and partially seals the lumber, of course soaking into the softer part of the growth rings more than the harder parts. That "absorbed and cured" thinned urethane partially blocks how fast the softer parts of the wood will soak up the stain, thus partially blocking the softer parts of the grain from disproportionally getting drastically darker than the harder parts of the grain, because more of it will be in the softer parts to help seal them more. You don't want to use un-thinned finish, because the idea is just to get partial blockage of the absorption of the stain, not total blockage.

What ever you decide to try, with regards to finish, try it on some scraps FIRST, a scrap big enough to see what it will look like, such as a 1X4 a foot long. If you don't like the first try, plane it off the scrap, and try another approach. I can absolutely tell you that this approach is easier to fix than fouling up the piece itself and having to fix and start over. Now how would I know that?

Stew

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike, I am no expert on finishing either, but do have a couple of thoughts.

I definitely like the Danish Oil option, I use it on fir projects that I care about. It helps bring out the grain and even the grain. Fir will never be curly maple, but I have built projects out of it because of the relatively low cost, and I think the Danish Oil gives the fir a very nice appearance. It brings out the grain, but at the same time prevents the "in your face" appearance that you often get on untreated fir that has been given a medium to somewhat dark stain.

If you go with stain or dye, I think poplar may be a little like white pine, in that the stuff will really sop up the stain, I don't know if uneven absorbance of the stain at the growth rings will make for a blotchy job that shows too much contrast, but the Danish Oil first, sometimes followed with some sort of sealer thinned way down, like 10% urethane in 90% paint thinner, THINLY brushed on will help even out how the lumber takes the stain, and cut down on the blotchiness. One thing on this, let the Danish Oil have a lot of time to cure, but remember that it actually soaks down into the wood. I say this, because the thinned finish will potentially strip out some of the Danish oil. That grain in your poplar is beautiful. The Danish Oil will help bring that out, and make it even more beautiful.

The thinned urethane (or some other type of finish) helps because you are blocking, to an extent, how much faster the soft part of the growth rings absorb the stain as opposed to the harder part of the growth rings, so you get a much less striking contrast. The thinned urethane soaks into the lumber when you put it on and partially seals the lumber, of course soaking into the softer part of the growth rings more than the harder parts. That "absorbed and cured" thinned urethane partially blocks how fast the softer parts of the wood will soak up the stain, thus partially blocking the softer parts of the grain from disproportionally getting drastically darker than the harder parts of the grain, because more of it will be in the softer parts to help seal them more. You don't want to use un-thinned finish, because the idea is just to get partial blockage of the absorption of the stain, not total blockage.

What ever you decide to try, with regards to finish, try it on some scraps FIRST, a scrap big enough to see what it will look like, such as a 1X4 a foot long. If you don't like the first try, plane it off the scrap, and try another approach. I can absolutely tell you that this approach is easier to fix than fouling up the piece itself and having to fix and start over. Now how would I know that?

Stew


Thanks Stew, I appreciate the advice and the explanation – makes a lot of sense. I just finished the headboard. Once I finish the side rails I will have no choice but to quit pussyfooting around and make some kind of decision about finishing and move forward. Your suggestion about using large enough sample pieces for testing finishes is excellent. I've certainly tested finishes on pieces in the past that were too small to get any real idea of what the finish would look like on the actual project.

Building the bed without first having the mattress that supposed to fit into it goes against one my basic rules. I wish I could say that I "can imagine" how much it would suck to assemble finished bed and find out the mattress doesn't fit, but regrettably I know exactly how that feels.

Hopefully I'll be done here in the next week or so. If I don't post again it means either the finish was a train wreck, and/or the mattress didn't fit. I will post updates. Wish me luck.

All the best, Mike

[John Kananis]

Mike, seriously, since you have some time before the project is complete, try the second method I mentioned on a decent sized piece of scrap - you'll feel like a finishing champion! Poplar is sometimes a bit in the PITA when finishing but... gel stain is your friend. :-)

Edit: If you get really motivated (think you will after you see results), use a little finishing wax over top of the whole thing and well...

[Gary Focht]

This stuff works really well to prevent botching with dyes or stain. Definitely need to use it with the poplar.

http://www.cn-woodworking.com/cn-pre-color-conditioner/

[Chuck Nickerson]

Great process.
I love build threads.
I really love build threads that start with a photo of the raw lumber.
I'm over the moon for build threads that use an obscure tool I use as well (the 5ppi crosscut saw).

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike, seriously, since you have some time before the project is complete, try the second method I mentioned on a decent sized piece of scrap - you'll feel like a finishing champion! Poplar is sometimes a bit in the PITA when finishing but... gel stain is your friend. :-)

Edit: If you get really motivated (think you will after you see results), use a little finishing wax over top of the whole thing and well...


John, you had me at "feel like a finishing champion". The Watco oil\varnish has been on for a couple days and I just rreturned from Rockler with sanding sealer and 3 colors of oil based gel wipe on stains. Once I have color approval from the Boss, it's onward into the fray . M

mostly just want the finishing done. When it's my standard oil, ,shellac finish it's fun to see the transformation that comes w/ the added depth and gloss. But when I have to add color, like on this project, that's when things go down hill.