router table problems

[Mike Steinhilper]

this seems like a very simple problem, but i have not yet figured out a way to deal with it! to avoid tear-out on the router table, i use a piece of scrap behind my workpiece. but, when the bit gets past the workpiece, it kicks out the scrap. I have tried to come up with a jig to keep both the workpiece and the scrap against the fence, but no luck so far... any home built jigs? off the shelf? Let me know how you've dealt with this! thanks! (especially important b/c this is my first project with cherry and i really don't want to waste a bunch!)

Mike

[john whittaker]

Mike, A little more detail about the type of cut & orientation of the board you are routing might help us help you.

I often use MDF as a backer as it is softer than wood and less susceptible to kicking out.

[Mike Steinhilper]

ok, here are some more details... it is especially hard when coping rails/styles, but it is also a problem just routing a rabbit. basically short pieces of any kind are a problem. no problems with, say an 18 inch board. It become a problem i guess when the piece is to short to use a feather board.

[Lee Schierer]

There are several ways to minimize problems like you describe.

First the backer board is an excellent idea. If it is kicking out, then you might try cutting the profile on the backer board first and then putting the priofiled backer against the stock to be the finished piece. It will still do the same job of preventing chip out.

You might also want to try lighter cuts. Trying to cut a full depth profile puts a lot of stress on the wood so it is more likely to split or chip than if you take a series of small cuts until you get tot he finished profile.

Another thing that works is to make a zero clearance insert for your router fence that exactly fits the bit you are using. These can be a bit more time consuming than a zero clearance insert for a table saw, but serve the same purpose.

Make a shooting board with a backer board firmly attached and a toggle clamp for holding the piece you want. A shooting board arrangement gives you more control particularly on long narrow pieces like stiles and rails. When you clamp the finished piece between the backer block and the shooting board base, it shouldn't mbe able to move. It will also stop you from tilting the piece and you make the cut. Shooting boards are fairly easy to make.

[Mike Steinhilper]

Ok, I think the shooting board idea is heading in the right direction. I'm thinking a piece of hardboard on a runner with a toggle clamp? Happen to have any pics?

[john whittaker]

You might have already tried this but....Try using a scrap backer the same height & width as the piece you're routing, then use a push block with rubber bottom to help hold the small piece AND the backer (I use the push blocks from my jointer) This will allow you to get a bit more muscle holding both your board and backer to the fence & table. Also safer when cutting short pieces.

Also, you may be able to pre-cut the profile of your bit into the backer thus creating a zero clearance backer. This should eliminate "backer kickback" How bout that...a new woodworking term. :D
Good luck.

[Lee Schierer]

Sorry no pictures, but I'm sure the other folks here will have some. The series on TV called "The Router Workshop" uses these types of jigs all the time, but they don't show any on their web site.

You would make the base out of 1/4" hardboard or plywood and make the backer piece from stock the same thickness as your finished piece. Rockers and others sell the toggle type clamps.

[John Gregory]

Eagle America has a coping sled (http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_400-1235). I plan on building one like it some day

[Jules Dominguez]

An option is to use the router without the table. Clamp the board you're cutting to the end of your workbench with a backup board clamped against it and use a router bit with a bearing guide. No tearout. This assumes, of course that you have a piloted router bit that suitsthe job at hand.

I have a router table, but don't use it for all of my router cuts.

[frank shic]

mike, one of the tricks i've used to cope the end grain on rails for frame and panel doors is to use a bessey clamp to hold the backer piece (aligned PARALLEL with the rail) secure to prevent the router from kicking out the scrap which will occur if you simply try applying downward pressure with a grout float or sideways pressure with a push stick. good luck!

[Steve Clardy]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11118


Look in here on my homemade cope sled