Protecting Cast Iron for long term storage (4 years) in garage without Boeshield

[Rahul Srivastava]

I am moving away for school for 4 years. I am going to be storing my cast iron top machines (bandsaw, planer, etc) in my parents garage during that period. I don't have access to boeshield where I live. What can I put on the cast iron surfaces so that it is protected from rust for the next 4 years.

[Doug Hepler]

Rahul,

The answer, and the effectiveness of the treatment, depends on the environment in which the tools will be stored. One of the main issues in rusting of tools is fluctuation in temperature and relative humidity. Briefly, an iron surface that is cooler than the ambient air will attract condensate, which will promote rust. Also, chemicals like salt (from sweat, etc,) and some rust removers left on the iron may attract water from the air. Wipe the iron clean with an oily rag.

If the tools will be stored in a relatively dry climate with minor temperature fluctuations then I would feel comfortable with a good coating of furniture or floor wax (no silicone!) like Butcher's Wax or Johnson's. In a humid climate with significant temperature swings, consider a thicker coat of wax, perhaps even paraffin wax (used in canning) or petroleum jelly (Vaseline). For bearings, gears, etc just apply heavy mineral oil. Enough should remain in place to protect these surfaces. It will be messy to remove the petroleum jelly in four years, but so be it.

Before moving to Denver (desert climate) I lived in Iowa, Virginia and coastal Florida. Paste wax seemed to work very well, but my tools were being used and were not stored for four years.

Boeshield is really the best because you can spray it into parts that you can't otherwise reach. It might be worth the effort to get some, but then I don't know where you live.

Theoretically, a coat of BLO or shellac should provide an effective vapor barrier for clean flat surfaces. It could be very difficult to remove from some inaccessible surfaces, however. I have never tried this.

Doug

[Peter Kelly]

I'd say wrap everything carefully in movers blankets. As above, condensation on machine surfaces occurs when there are large fluctuations in temperatures typically in the spring and fall. If your machines are insulated a bit, it should help.

Could always use cosmoline as well.

[Nicholas Lingg]

https://www.imscompany.com/ProductNavigation/ItemDetail?ItemNumber=145220

[Rahul Srivastava]

Rahul,

The answer, and the effectiveness of the treatment, depends on the environment in which the tools will be stored. One of the main issues in rusting of tools is fluctuation in temperature and relative humidity. Briefly, an iron surface that is cooler than the ambient air will attract condensate, which will promote rust. Also, chemicals like salt (from sweat, etc,) and some rust removers left on the iron may attract water from the air. Wipe the iron clean with an oily rag.

If the tools will be stored in a relatively dry climate with minor temperature fluctuations then I would feel comfortable with a good coating of furniture or floor wax (no silicone!) like Butcher's Wax or Johnson's. In a humid climate with significant temperature swings, consider a thicker coat of wax, perhaps even paraffin wax (used in canning) or petroleum jelly (Vaseline). For bearings, gears, etc just apply heavy mineral oil. Enough should remain in place to protect these surfaces. It will be messy to remove the petroleum jelly in four years, but so be it.

Before moving to Denver (desert climate) I lived in Iowa, Virginia and coastal Florida. Paste wax seemed to work very well, but my tools were being used and were not stored for four years.

Boeshield is really the best because you can spray it into parts that you can't otherwise reach. It might be worth the effort to get some, but then I don't know where you live.

Theoretically, a coat of BLO or shellac should provide an effective vapor barrier for clean flat surfaces. It could be very difficult to remove from some inaccessible surfaces, however. I have never tried this.

Doug


Doug, Thanks for the feedback. I live in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I don't really know how to describe the humidity level. We have all 4 seasons here. I would not describe it as humid though. Would it just be safe to just use Petroleum Jelly. I am really only going to be doing a Planer bed, bandsaw table and drill press table.

[Guy Belleman]

Being a teacher overseas I do leave a few tools for very long periods of time in a garage. I have had these steps work exceptionally well: clean all tools well, even the tracks and every crevice of sawdust that can adsorb moisture, then rub in a penetrating coating, top with a couple coats of paste wax, then lay on thick layer of Slipit jelly, and top with a thin painters plastic sheeting, making sure to lay it on to get all of the air out between the slipit and plastic. When I return I just wipe the tools off and go to work. A can of Slipit has lasted me for five years and the tools are like new. I had a roof leak above one tool and it had no damage at all.

[John Lankers]

Rahul, I live 2 1/2 hours to the SW and I know Edmonton very well (used to farm in the area before retirement). Lee Valley in Edmonton carries Boeshield T9 and Moovit. Also keeping the garage well ventilated during spring, summer and fall helps a lot with condensation and even heat in the winter (+10 deg. C is plenty)

[Erik Loza]

I don't think Boeshield will be enough. Back when we had the warehouse here in Austin, the warehouse guys used this rattle-can stuff from CRC that was specifically designed to protect raw metal during storage. Went on like snot but did what it was supposed to do.

Erik

[John Lankers]

I don't think Boeshield will be enough. Back when we had the warehouse here in Austin, the warehouse guys used this rattle-can stuff from CRC that was specifically designed to protect raw metal during storage. Went on like snot but did what it was supposed to do.

Erik

Cosmoline?

[Frederick Skelly]

After Erik's mention of CRC products, I went looking and found this. I haven't used it, but it looked promising. Hard to beat Boeshield though....

https://www.zoro.com/crc-outdoor-corrosion-inhibitor-16-oz-net-10-03282/i/G0286754/?gclid=CLLQ27OMgM0CFQeRfgodDRQI_Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Erik Loza]

After Erik's mention of CRC products, I went looking and found this. I haven't used it, but it looked promising. Hard to beat Boeshield though....

https://www.zoro.com/crc-outdoor-corrosion-inhibitor-16-oz-net-10-03282/i/G0286754/?gclid=CLLQ27OMgM0CFQeRfgodDRQI_Q&gclsrc=aw.ds


That's the stuff!

Erik

[Scott T Smith]

LPS 3 is a heavy duty rust inhibitor. I used to use it to spray on crankshafts and other machined surfaces that were destined for storage back when I had my machine shop.

It would be my first choice. It's basically a spray cosmoline type product.

[Chris Parks]

CRC used to sell the same or a similar product as an ignition sealer on cars to prevent water shorting out the high tension leads and distributor. it went to a hard plastic coating when applied and I used it to preserve my father's machines when he could no longer use them.

[Ken Kortge]

A while back I'd read in a Family Handyman magazine about a newer rust prevention technology. I've never used them but the technology sounds interesting. It may not be intended for something the size of a saw table.
http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/how-to-prevent-rusty-tools/view-all

I followed the link on the above web site. They actually make table saw covers and bigger.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Doug, Thanks for the feedback. I live in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I don't really know how to describe the humidity level. We have all 4 seasons here. I would not describe it as humid though. Would it just be safe to just use Petroleum Jelly. I am really only going to be doing a Planer bed, bandsaw table and drill press table.


Boeshield T-9 is available through Lee Valley, there is one in Edmonton is there not?

[Lon Crosby]

Consider "Fluid Film" in a spray can. Amazon handles it if not available locally. Lanolin in a solvent/propellant. Google it to learn more.

[Jerry Thompson]

Erik, what is the specific name of the CRC product? They have a bunch of different items. I went to their Web site and was overwhelmed by the products offered.

[Tom Ewell]

Often wondered how that 'shrink' plastic used for temporary storm windows would work as a final layer for a prepped iron surface.

[Craig Hoehn]

I seriously don't think boshield is all that its cracked up to be. It only lasted a couple months when I used it, wears off quite easily. I now use ProtecTool wax from leevally and it lasts me about a year. If I didnt have access to it for 4 years though i would probably coat everything in oil, wrap it in plastic, and place some silica gel dehumidifiers inside the plastic just in case any moisture got in there.

[Jon Endres]

I put my grandfather's 1939 vintage Craftsman table saw in storage almost 10 years ago. I cleaned it thoroughly, covered every surface in a heavy coat of Vaseline, and then put it inside a heavy black trash bag and sealed the bag. I've checked it once or twice since then and it still has no rust on it.

[Peter Kelly]

Erik, what is the specific name of the CRC product? They have a bunch of different items. I went to their Web site and was overwhelmed by the products offered.https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z-1sswfo5oy.JPG
https://www.zoro.com/crc-outdoor-corrosion-inhibitor-16-oz-net-10-03282/i/G0286754/?gclid=CLLQ27OMgM0CFQeRfgodDRQI_Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Tom M King]

Lowes has Fluid Film where you find WD40 and such: http://www.lowes.com/pd_650825-59787-AS11_0__?productId=50335157&Ntt=

[Bob Bouis]

Boeshield's not going to cut it. It's not humidity per se but changes in temperature that really cause condensation. And that's going to happen. I'd use something like cosmoline or maybe wheel bearing grease with a layer of plastic sheeting pressed over it with no air bubbles.

[peter gagliardi]

Real simple, and real cheap.
Plain old vegetable oil ragged on heavy.
It will dry and congeal on the metal providing an almost impervious layer.
I have used it on a freshly machined shaper top that i had to put in cold storage for 5 years that was the equivalent of an old open air barn.
Brought it in, and its still fresh as the day it was machined. Cut the film with a little mineral spirits, came right off.

[Sean Tracey]

Corn oil, specifically, is often used in machine tool way lube oils because it is sticky and tends to stay put.

I used way lube oil on my drill press column and it did protect the surface for a very long time without repeated applications.

I think cosmoline is better at long term protection though.

Corn oil is easier to find.

[Michael Yadfar]

I only use my shop in the winter time, and everything sits in the summer. I stick a dehumidifier in there and also lightly coat my surfaces in wax. I also keep my shop heated to 50 degrees when I'm not working in there during the winter. Of course though, if your garage isn't well sealed that will be completely useless, and your parents may not be willing to pay for the extra energy. I pay my parents in furniture!

[mreza Salav]

Edmonton isn't that humid at all. I know because I've lived here long enough.
As others have said get some Boeshield and it will be fine. You can buy it from Lee Valley and probably Canadian Woodworker too.
You can also try flooring wax.

[Jim Andrew]

You could coat the tables with spar varnish. Then you would not have to clean up the machines when you go back to work. Ever seen the painted areas of your machines rust?

[Scott Dorrer]

LPS 3 is a heavy duty rust inhibitor. I used to use it to spray on crankshafts and other machined surfaces that were destined for storage back when I had my machine shop.

It would be my first choice. It's basically a spray cosmoline type product.


This would be my choice also.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612