15" Upper Kitchen Cabinets

[Mark W Pugh]

Who has built deeper upper cabinets, > 12", and what did you think of them? I'm wanting more space in the uppers, but was wondering if there is any draw backs in making them 15".

[Mike Goetzke]

I built cabinets for our kitchen. It's unbelievable the help you get from the forums. A professional cabinetmaker suggested 14" to me and they have worked out fine ( http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196442-Pictures-of-Our-completed-Kitchen&highlight=kitchen ).

This was my first kitchen. I bought a few books to get ideas and drew up a plan. Then someone suggested Cabinet Planner software so I bought it. Glad I did because in 3-D the original design didn't look good. The program needs a little thought to use for material cut list but I survived.

Mike

[Marty Schlosser]

Mark,

I exclusively make my uppers at least 14" deep and often 15". However, the only caveat I'll offer is for small kitchens where deeper-than-usual upper cabinets would lend a claustrophobic feel to the room. In such cases, selectively use the deeper uppers.

I think you'll find that the main reason most cabinet companies use 12" depths is to maximize the use of 4 X 8 sheetgoods... and that's a decent reason in itself, but it really doesn't provide the depth most people would prefer if they had the option.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Years ago, we started making our kitchens at 86" standard height (allowing a 30" standard upper and a 2" valence, while still having the 18" counter to upper height).

I also went to a 13" deep upper cabinet as standard. Some of the plates today are larger than in the past and also I found a lot of our older customers, had doors that were "just" not cloning properly due to the size of items they were putting into the cabinets. 13" has worked out great for us.

I do make deeper upper cabinets if required (as for appliances, over the fridge, range hood cabinet, etc) but have not had the need yet to go deeper than 13" as standard.

Depends also if the design is an inset, or overlay door. For inset I add another 3/4" which brings the total protrusion to the same as an overlay cab with the door.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Mine are 14-1/2" deep. I have an over the range microwave, and it looks better imo when it doesn't stick out so far past the cabinets.

I think in most cases, 13-1/2 to 14" is plenty deep.

If the room is poorly lit, deeper cabinets will seem even deeper, but if well lit, you won't really notice much difference.

[Martin Wasner]

My standard walk cabinet is 12½" deep. I've got one builder that wants them at 14" deep. I just say whatever. You burn up a little more material, but it's not a big deal. Every kitchen I've built for myself I've made them my standard depth.

Inset you'll also be losing whatever the thickness of your door is and and any setback you may have, if any.

[Martin Wasner]

I hate my phone sometimes. Just wade through the typos. Sorry

[Robert Parent]

I built mine 13 inches deep and would do it again.

Robert

[Leo Graywacz]

My standard build is 14" for an inset face frame cabinet and 13 1/4" box on a full overlay Euro kitchen yielding 14" deep overall. I only make them less if the client is insistent. If you are paying for a custom kitchen you might as well have more room.

[Robert Engel]

One of the factors in 12" uppers is efficiency in utilizing materials.
You loose 1 side/top/bottom per sheet if you go more than 11 1/2" on a the sheet stock.

[Jim Becker]

I wish I did build deeper uppers...but alas...hindsight is golden...

[Leo Graywacz]

One of the factors in 12" uppers is efficiency in utilizing materials.
You loose 1 side/top/bottom per sheet if you go more than 11 1/2" on a the sheet stock.

No you don't. You combine various parts per sheet and you end up with a pretty efficient use.

[Martin Wasner]

No you don't. You combine various parts per sheet and you end up with a pretty efficient use.


Usually that works. No matter what, you're still putting more material into the box and shelves. Drops will always get burned up, it's just a matter of how conveniently that is.

[Leo Graywacz]

Here's the nest of my last kitchen. This one had 13 1/4" uppers because it was a Euro design.

http://www.fototime.com/F5BC896024B6745/orig.jpg

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Much like the bit of extra material it takes, to make our pantry cabinets and fridge gables 26" wide (so counters end with a clean square cut) the few extra sheets of material for making the upper units wider than 12", is not a whole lot more $$ if you look at the overall cost of materials. At least not on the average custom kitchen.

Kitchens should be primarily about practical, usable space - not about saving a few sheets of material, IMO. Unless you are talking low end, bargain type cabinets priced tight.

[Frank Pratt]

Ikea uppers are all 15"

[Mike Cutler]

Who has built deeper upper cabinets, > 12", and what did you think of them? I'm wanting more space in the uppers, but was wondering if there is any draw backs in making them 15".

Not that I can see, as long as the kitchen is big enough. You might consider raising them up an inch or two. It visually makes them look a little more "standard".
Mine are 15" deep, and it works out very well. Dishes seem to fit better, more per cabinet, than a standard upper. We also have oversized plates.

[Jim Becker]

Kitchens should be primarily about practical, usable space - not about saving a few sheets of material, IMO.
This is spot-on and honestly, should apply to all projects...the end result is what counts the most.

[Mike Goetzke]

This is spot-on and honestly, should apply to all projects...the end result is what counts the most.

When I planned our kitchen project I couldn't believe the amount we spent on quality soft close slides, soft close hinges, and pulls/knobs...the wood seemed cheap!

Mike

[Leo Graywacz]

About 2 grand for plywood, 5-700 for hardware 1200 for solid wood and 5-600 for finish.

[Rick Potter]

Just checked mine. Most are 13" deep, but I made a couple deeper for space as well as making the run more visually interesting. One, for a microwave is almost 19", another for use with no door and fancy plates on display is 15" which fit the plate rack I made, and the third oddball is over the stove, and it is 16".

I find the uppers look really good with the bump outs, and crown along the top. The wif e designed them, and is very happy, with what I like to call 'the 68 drawer kitchen'.

[jessie hachey]

Dude, My sheets are 49" wide....

[jessie hachey]

I am a cabinet manufacturer, and although 12" is standard, I frequently do 13" and 14" uppers for added room, but anything more than that for regular uppers is overkill, and starts to crowd your face area while working. My custom standards are 13" uppers, 24" lowers, 25" over fridge, 25" pantry, and I use applied end panels between dimension changes, and between fridge that stick out an additional 7/8" which makes my 3/4" doors flush after you add a door bumper. Exposed ends are ususally applied door panels also measuring 7/8" deeper than cabinet.. of course this is all frameless design.

[Jim Dwight]

I built a little kitchenette in the walk out basement of our last house. It had a fridge that seemed to stick out. So I made the cabinet over it 24 deep, the one next to it about 18 deep, then one at 15, one at 12 and then a full height pantry about 9 or 10 inches deep to fit beside a doorway. So the whole set stepped along. We thought it looked good.

[Justin Ludwig]

338552

Both. I make my standard uppers X" x 31-7/8" x 12". Offset uppers are X" x 36" x 16". This allows the crown on the shorter cabinets to butt into the taller ones.

Standard depth in laundry room is 14" so I can put a hanging rod in between cabinets or a cabinet and wall cleat. 16" depth over washer/dryer is too encroaching, 12" deep won't allow for proper placement of hanging rod.

[Richard McComas]

My upper kitchen cabs are 14 1/2 deep not counting the doors. I use a 3/4 back. The end result is 13 inches inside. I have built deeper uppers when asked to accommodate particular items at the customers request.

[Leo Graywacz]

Why 3/4" backs? I use 1/2" and it's overkill. But it makes it so I don't need to put stretchers in which takes a lot of time. Thinking about going to 3/8". It'd be more then strong enough and would be lighter then 1/2"