Keith's Acrylic Box Design

[Linda Creatore]

Hey Keith...you out there:)

A while back you posted a drawing and pic of a long acrylic box

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7322

Does the lid simply sit on top of the box or is it hinged? It looks like you have two recesses on back panel drawing, but I can't tell from the pic. If it is hinged, what kind of hardware did you use? Do you have to use any special hardware for acrylic?:confused:

Also, I could have sworn you had another pic of the long box, by itself, but can't find it. Did you post one or am I just loosing my mind?:eek:

Thanks,
Linda

[Keith Outten]

Linda,

I'm sure I have posted several pictures of the long boxes. I know that one pic of the clear box and at least one pic of a smoked acrylic box below. I have engraved many different logos and graphics in the white inlay.

Your right, I believe the plans had notches for hinges and also holes in the bottom for a music box which I haven't used yet. The top I made just sat on top, I cut a flat rectangular piece and glued it to the bottom side of the top to center it when it rests on the box.

I should give credit to my Epilog Salesman for providing the cdr files for these boxes, they arean't my designs.

[Linda Creatore]

Hi Keith!

ooo, you found the pic I was looking for -- acrylic box ---other is very nice , as well! What kind of glue do you use on acrylic, particlularly clear acrylic? Does the glue "show through" the acrylic? These boxes are so cool!

Thanks,
Linda

[Keith Outten]

Linda,

I use IPS Weldon #4 solvent cement for glueing acrylic boxes.

You need to be very carefull when you apply the glue, it will melt any surface it comes in contact with. I normally apply the glue from the bottom and inside surfaces. Using the needle-like applicator that comes with Weldon you apply it very spareingly, the glue is so thin it will wick into the joints when you apply just a drop.

Normally I use rubber bands around the box to hold it together while applying glue. I also use elastic hair bands sometimes.

[Tod Landis]

Hmmm... I can't seem to find the Long box design. Any chance that you can clue me on it?

Thanks,

Tod

[Lee DeRaud]

Hmmm... I can't seem to find the Long box design. Any chance that you can clue me on it?Follow the link in message #1 of this thread, then download from the link in message #1 of that thread.

[Tod Landis]

Lee,

Thanks! Don't know how I kept missing that one. I appreciate the help.


Tod

[Tod Landis]

Does anyone else have a problem of the box cracking on the inside corner cuts? I noticed this after the material cooled. I am guessing that it is a matter of power and speed, but it could be as "simple" as radiusing the inside corner cuts.

If so, can anyone tell me an easy way of editing the corners to a small radius?

Thanks,


Tod

[Joe Pelonio]

Only quick way I can think of is add a point on each side of the existing corner point, delete the original point, change the resulting line to a curve
and refine the radius with your node edit tool. Did it crack before, during, or after assembly? Also, did a piece break off or was it "checking" of the edge?

[Lee DeRaud]

Does anyone else have a problem of the box cracking on the inside corner cuts? I noticed this after the material cooled. I am guessing that it is a matter of power and speed, but it could be as "simple" as radiusing the inside corner cuts.If the piece didn't actually break, they're probably just surface stress cracks. (Joe, is that what you meant by "checking"?) I think you had it right the first time: try less power, less speed.

And don't use anything solvent-based to clean the acrylic, it will do the same thing. Note that even some glass cleaners have alcohol in them.

Radiusing the inside corners might help but then you need to compensate on any mating surface, which may either be impossible or make the joints too loose.

[Tod Landis]

You guys seem to know what you're doing. This is a great forum.

I do think that is was a stress issue (according to a plastics engineer that I showed), I'll try to make the cuts with the power and speed adjustments.

Thanks,


Tod

[Lee DeRaud]

You guys seem to know what you're doing.LOL...you haven't been here very long, have you? :D :p :cool:

[Joe Pelonio]

If the piece didn't actually break, they're probably just surface stress cracks. (Joe, is that what you meant by "checking"?) I think you had it right the first time: try less power, less speed.

And don't use anything solvent-based to clean the acrylic, it will do the same thing. Note that even some glass cleaners have alcohol in them.



Right Lee. Do an experiment some time for fun. Cut a piece of 1/4" acrylic
on the laser then rub the edge with some denatured alcohol, you can watch the cracks come out right before your eyes. BTW this is also a concern with acrylic that has been flame polished.