Building a Media Console

[Barry Beech]

I am working on the design for a Media Console for my wifes Christmas present and I need a little help on the construction of the console.

I am building it out of walnut and using poplar as a secondary wood.

I need help on how to fit the top to the carcass. The top will not fit in a rabbet, so I assume I need to build an open frame out of the poplar and then screw the top to this frame?? There will be a cove molding under the top and attached to the carcass. Will I need to elongate the holes to hold the top to the frame?? (is this clear?)

I really learn a lot from ya'll and thought I would use your collective knowledge on this project.

Thanks!

Barry

[Doug Cowan]

I am not sure I understand your situation, but it sounds like you are looking to attach a top that overhangs the sides. For a situation like that I like to use figure 8 fasteners. I think I got my last batch from Lee Valley, but Rockler or Highland Hardware should also have them. If you arn't familiar with figure 8's, you use a forstner bit to drill shallow holes on the tops of the walls. These holes should overhang the inside edge of the walls which means the figure 8 can swival to account for movement of the top. The top is then screwed on through the other hole in the figure 8. Clear as mud? Hopefully this was somewhat helpfull. Good Luck.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'm not sure I understand what you're doing. Posting a sketch might help.

A good trick for posting a sketch is to make a pencil-and-paper drawing, then photograph it with a digitial camera, then post the jpeg.

[Barry Beech]

Sorry, I wasn't sure if I was clear or not. The top will longer and wider than the carcass so it won't be able to sit in a rabbet. There will be a cove molding under the lip of the top.

I think I need to build a frame to sit in a rabbet to make the console sturdy enough for a TV to sit and then have the top attached to this frame.

Does that make more sense??

I will try to post a picture of the drawing that I have.

Thanks again for your input.

[Steve Schoene]

Don't see how a rabbet will help. The top, or the top and frame still have to be supported by the carcass. First, make sure the carcass won't collapse, then put on the top. For example, having a fixed shelf is a common way of stiffening a carcass.

[Michael Ballent]

Barry,
There are 2 things that you have to keep in mind... What type of material will the top be made of? If it's plywood, MDF, particle board or real timber will help you (and us) decide what the best approach will be to attach the top to the carcass. Timber will move along the width so you need to accomodate the movement with elongated holes, or the figure 8 fasteners. The other materials do not move so you can screw them in with pocket holes, or non elongated holes and screws.

BTW the figure 8 thingies can be positioned inside of the carcass so you can still put the molding on the outside under the overhang. Hope that makes sense. :D

[Jim Becker]

While you can use them, you don't need to use things like the figure-eights, etc. to mount your top. Design the carcass of the project to provide both the support you need for the equipment as well as the means to mount the top. Within the frame or apron of the carcass put in corner blocks and intermediate supports as needed. I'm attaching a picture of the underside of the small vanity table I recently completed for our girls' room. Although you can't see it in the picture, the front holes are elongated front to back to allow for wood movement in the top. I chose on this project to have the fixed screws in the back since that side is to the wall. You can't beat the price of this method and it works with so many carcass designs...

[Michael Ballent]

While you can use them, you don't need to use things like the figure-eights, etc. to mount your top. ....

Jim, I think Fatherhood is making you more frugal ;)

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I think Fatherhood is making you more frugal

Perhaps that will happen. ;) But in this case, I always have 1 1/4" screws available and the blocking helps stiffen the structure a little. This method can also be used in structures that use "dust frames"...even ones that float in a sliding dado for wood movement. As an alternative I've used wooden keys that engage a groove under the table top. Here is an example of that on the cherry desk I build Dr. SMWBO about 6 years ago. (My very first furniture project ever)

[Michael Ballent]

Hehe, that would work as well :D Norm has used that method many times in the past, quick and cheap :D If I remember correctly he runs the groove the length of the apron, instead of using the slots, but either way would work :D

[Barry Beech]

Building the frame is what I had in mind. See the picture that I attached. Sorry, it's rather crude but should give a better idea of what I'm thinking.

The frame is on top and the carcass on the bottom. It shows that the top of the console will overlap the edges. A cove molding will wrap around the frame in the rabbets.

Also, should the frame be constructed with pocket screws or tongue and groove?

Again, thanks for everyones help.

Barry

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v661/bonddaddy/Mediaconsole.jpg

[Michael Ballent]

Are you building the Norm Abram Media Press??? I am building that right now, but only the bottom part to be used as a changing table for our baby that will be coming in November. I ended up using pocket screws to build the frame but that bumped the total depth by 1". Luckily I figured it out before I cut the sides. If you want to put the frame on the top you should put a rabbet on the top of the carcass that will match the plywood thickness and frame will sit in that rabbet. Drill elongated holes if you are just putting in real timber for the top. Make sure that the frame does not interfere with the rabbet on the back of the carcass so you can put in the 1/4" ply for the back. Let us know if this makes sense to you :D

[Barry Beech]

Michael,


1st: congratulations on the baby. They are wonderful. My wife and I have a 18mth old and just found out #2 is on the way. :D

I'm not plannig on using any ply wood on this project except for the back. So, the top will need the screws to be elongated.

I was going to build a entertainment center / armoir, but my wife suggested that we get a new LCD TV for our christmas present :D which wouldn't fit in a normal size EC / A. So, I had to go back to the drawing board and after looking at other cabinets can up with this. The design that I'm copying is one that the TV lowers into the cabinet (in my case that is a little over kill). The main cabinet will have the TV and components inside and then there will be smaller cabinets on either side of the main.

[Michael Ballent]

Sounds like you are in for some fun if you are not going to be using any plywood in the project and serious expense. In my opinion, for case work, there is no shame in using good furniture grade plywood at least on the carcass. You do not have to deal with wood movement and no need to glue up wood panels. The other option would be to create frame and panels for the sides and let the panels float in the frames. Not sure what the final look you are going for. Here a night stand that was my very first project http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7022 The panels are 1/4" plywood FYI. Everything else is made with maple and walnut.

[Barry Beech]

The I got a really good deal on about 350bft of rough walnut :D. That along with the poplar used as secondary wood should be just about perfect. I'm not a snob about the use of plywood, but I need to use all the walnut because my storage space is limited.

[Jim Becker]

If you are building the carcass with solid stock, you should also use solid stock for your support frame and other dividers. You also need to provide for woodmovement on the frame to carcass connection, too, unless you orient the "side" and "center" members with the grain in the same direction as the carcass sides. This might be done by gluing at the front of the rabit you propose and using a screw or screws in elongated holes towards the back so the frame sides remain independent of the carcass side...you have a cross-grain situation there if your "sticks" for the frame sides and center support go front to back. (I'm assuming your carcass grain is "up and down" on the sides)

Personally, I prefer solid stock to plywood any day... ;)