Branding Irons

[Tim Bridge]

Do any of you guys mark your work with a branding iron?
If so can post your mark?

I am thinking of getting a branding iron for my work.

[Raymond Fries]

Was a nice gift from my wife.

[Wade Lippman]

My future DIL gave me one. I don't see the point of it, and have not used it.
Maybe some day I will appreciate it more...

[John K Jordan]

I don't use one, but a friend of mine does, marking the bottom of bowls and things with his farm brand. He started using one after I helped his daughter make a branding iron for Christmas! I understand they can be expensive to buy but fortunately I had a chunk of bronze, a metal lathe, and a milling machine. I milled the design then used files and Dremel to shape the edge. We could brand six times from one heating with a propane torch.

I think I posted these before, but in case anyone is interested:

337833 337834 337835 337836

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

I just have the standard radiused "Handcrafted by" version with my name under it. It works well, but always do some test impressions on scrap of the same wood where your mark will go so you get the "timing" correct. Too little time and it's hard to see and too much can result in a burn mark. It's very hard to put it back in exactly the same place to solve the first issue!

[John K Jordan]

It's very hard to put it back in exactly the same place to solve the first issue!

You've got that right, pert near impossible! I did think of a way I want to try but haven't yet: use some double-sided tape to temporarily stick some guides to the piece so the iron would register to the same place the second time. I'm imagining a small rectangular metal frame made from perhaps aluminum angle iron or square rod made so the iron just fits into the opening.

JKJ

[Jerry Wright]

Different twist - I embed a laser cut 1-1/4" disc in an obscure place. It has my name, logo, and a space for signing that has been laser engraved. Always neat and just requires a shallow forstner cut recess.

[Lee Schierer]

I use a branding iron on all my works where it will fit. It is a simple "Handcrafted by" type with a border that came from Rockler. I also embed a penny of the current year with a forstner bit next to the brand so that the owner can identify years later when the item was made. I chose the penny because they aren't worth much and most people won't go to the trouble to take it out for the cash value.

[scott spencer]

My "branding" solution was a custom rubber stamp. It's cheap, effective, and attractive IMO. It works best when applied prior to the clear coat.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Shop/002-2.jpg

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I use a branding iron that you heat with a torch.

To illustrate Jim's comment about burning....
337883

[Frank Drackman]

I have the standard Handcrafted By followed by my name. It was a gift that I didn't use much until as a joke I stamped a cutting board made of scraps and gave it away. Suddenly people that I had gifted cutting boards felt that they were jipped because their board wasn't branded. Now everything gets a brand.

[Yonak Hawkins]

I agree with scott. I have electric branding irons but there are variables that have to be controlled to get good, consistent marks such as temperature, amount of contact time and angle of application. Because everything has to be just right, especially when it's a one-time shot, like scott, I now go with a rubber stamp. Another advantage of a stamp is that the image can be smaller with greater detail and, because it's rubber with a foam backing and not metal, it's much more forgiving regarding application angle and can be applied to reasonably curved surfaces. You only have to be careful it's loaded with the right amount of ink. Also, it's much less expensive.

[Dave Lehnert]

Hi, I use a branding iron that you heat with a torch.

To illustrate Jim's comment about burning....
337883


This is the same as I use. Heated with a torch
Purchased it from Nova Tool Co 20 + years ago.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I don't use a branding iron, I use a soldering type hand held gun with a fine tip and hand sign and date all my pieces. Simple and effective.

Red

[Lee Schierer]

Hi, I use a branding iron that you heat with a torch.

To illustrate Jim's comment about burning....
337883

A little sanding will remove the "burn" marks and clean up your stamp with out removing the stamp itself.

[Al Launier]

Was a nice gift from my wife.

Good choice Ray, I use the same one.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Scott
your method intrigues me. Do you use a special ink pad to keep it from bleeding? I have a small branding iron but because of issues mentioned, I rarely use it.


My "branding" solution was a custom rubber stamp. It's cheap, effective, and attractive IMO. It works best when applied prior to the clear coat.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Shop/002-2.jpg

[Jason Beam]

Here's mine:

339555

I made it with my CNC router - brass machines so nicely. Here are a few others I've made for folks recently:

339560339562339563

My favorite is the moon one - that one just came out snazzy. It's tough with complex artwork because when you burn the wood, the lines get thicker and sometimes fine details can get lost in the mush. A nice, simple design looks really good, imo :)

[Roger Feeley]

Some folks have posted that they embed a current year penny. If you recognize your work and it stays in the family, I kind of like the idea.

[Wayne Lomman]

If you mount your branding iron in your drill press (unplug the press first!) and use it just as a press, you can reliably, accurately and repeatedly brand your work. Do the brand on the individual component before assembly. First did this over 30 years ago and never a problem in that time. Too faint and you just go again. Too dark, have a word with the operator and pick up the sandpaper. Cheers

[Michael Stein]

My "branding" solution was a custom rubber stamp. It's cheap, effective, and attractive IMO. It works best when applied prior to the clear coat.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/Shop/002-2.jpg

Scott- I, too, bought a stamp, but it always seems to "bleed" into the wood. How do you prevent yours from bleeding around the edges?

[Jim Becker]

Scott- I, too, bought a stamp, but it always seems to "bleed" into the wood. How do you prevent yours from bleeding around the edges?
Stamp after the first sealing coat of finish... ;) But be careful about compatibility of the ink with the finish!

[Yonak Hawkins]

The ink has everything to do with it. I stamp raw wood and I get no bleed. I use Tsukineko Brilliance ink.