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John Sanford
05-13-2016, 1:59 PM
Recently I was slathering some Anchorseal on a hunka redwood burl that I got in a raffle. As often happens when slathering anything, a bit of the slather ended up elsewhere than on the slatheree. I was able to scrape up the majority of the Anchorseal that missed the target, but what is the optimal cleaner to get the rest off my bench? Window cleaner didn't do anything. (It was sitting on the bench at the time, so I tried it...)

Jamie Straw
05-13-2016, 2:03 PM
Recently I was slathering some Anchorseal on a hunka redwood burl that I got in a raffle. As often happens when slathering anything, a bit of the slather ended up elsewhere than on the slatheree. I was able to scrape up the majority of the Anchorseal that missed the target, but what is the optimal cleaner to get the rest off my bench? Window cleaner didn't do anything. (It was sitting on the bench at the time, so I tried it...)
I've not had trouble getting it off my jeans (small spots) if I wipe with a towel before it dries. It's basically wax in, I think, a latex paint base. The wax may have prevented the window cleaner from affecting the paint? When in doubt, try Simple Green full strength (test a small spot first). Perhaps heat a spot up with a hair drier (or heat gun if you're very careful), and wipe the wax off, see what happens next.

Dave Bunge
05-13-2016, 3:16 PM
I suspect mineral spirits would dissolve the dried wax Anchorseal residue (prediction only, haven't tried it). They are chemically similar.

Leo Van Der Loo
05-13-2016, 3:25 PM
Recently I was slathering some Anchorseal on a hunka redwood burl that I got in a raffle. As often happens when slathering anything, a bit of the slather ended up elsewhere than on the slatheree. I was able to scrape up the majority of the Anchorseal that missed the target, but what is the optimal cleaner to get the rest off my bench? Window cleaner didn't do anything. (It was sitting on the bench at the time, so I tried it...)

Scraper.....

Stan Smith
05-13-2016, 6:03 PM
I literally just came in from putting some on. I patted down the brush with a shop towel and rinsed it out. To keep stuff off of the workbench, I have a 2' x 3" piece of hardboard that I put on the bench before using finish, anchorseal, etc..I usually use a putty knive to scrape stuff up using a light touch. Good luck!

Jamie Straw
05-13-2016, 10:34 PM
I literally just came in from putting some on. I patted down the brush with a shop towel and rinsed it out. To keep stuff off of the workbench, I have a 2' x 3" piece of hardboard that I put on the bench before using finish, anchorseal, etc..I usually use a putty knive to scrape stuff up using a light touch. Good luck!

When green wood abounds, as it has the past several months, I keep a chip brush for Anchorseal, and just wrap the brush head in a small plastic bag. Figure since painting green wood doesn't demand a smoooooth surface, it's OK.

John K Jordan
05-13-2016, 11:16 PM
When green wood abounds, as it has the past several months, I keep a chip brush for Anchorseal, and just wrap the brush head in a small plastic bag. Figure since painting green wood doesn't demand a smoooooth surface, it's OK.

I use a lot of Anchorseal for turning blanks and for the sawmill (the last I bought was a 55 gallon drum). For years now I do this: Put some Anchorseal in the bottom of a Folgers plastic coffee can. I keep a cheap chip brush in the can. After use, put the brush back in the can and put on the lid. I've shown this method to several people who started doing the same thing.

I have not cleaned an Anchorseal brush in at least 12 years. There is no need. With the coffee can the brush and sealer are always ready to go.

JKJ

Stan Smith
05-14-2016, 12:40 PM
I totally agree, that if you are going to use the brush often, there is no need to clean it. To be truthful, I buy cheapo brushes and about half the time, I just throw them away. This is determined by how many I have at the time.

Robert Henrickson
05-14-2016, 11:27 PM
I've found that I can get by with just putting the brush aside. It hardens, but if I put it into some fresh Anchorseal for a minute or two, it softens up on its own. I've been using the same brush for years, all with 'benign neglect'.

John K Jordan
05-15-2016, 6:26 AM
...It hardens, but if I put it into some fresh Anchorseal for a minute or two, it softens up on its own. I've been using the same brush for years,..

I don't have experience with the "new" Anchorseal recipe, but with the original Anchorseal if the chip brush hardens up a few swipes flexing the bristles against something (such as the end of a log) breaks the dried wax loose and it's ready to use.

JKJ

Bob Bouis
05-15-2016, 10:12 AM
I keep the brush in a can with an inch or two of anchorseal at the bottom and try not to shake it too much when I move it around.

robert baccus
05-15-2016, 10:17 PM
I always use my right hand and then rinse it.

Leo Van Der Loo
05-16-2016, 12:12 AM
Anybody read the question asked by the OP :rolleyes:

As the ??? question by the OP was how to clean the Anchor seal from his bench, what is your answer ??

John K Jordan
05-16-2016, 8:07 AM
Yes, I read it and can't answer. I don't get anchorseal on the bench. I usually apply anchorseal outside.

When using the bench for greasy or otherwise messy things I either tape down a sheet of aluminumized mylar (from a 3500 ft roll given to me by WoodCentral's JL) or set down an piece of 1/2" plywood cut to fit. This is too late for the OP's problem.

The mylar is wonderful stuff. Anyone want a few hundred feet, stop by and visit in East TN.

JKJ

allen thunem
05-16-2016, 9:21 AM
Laquer thinner works but it is indiscriminate, will take the finish off the bench as well. or you can let the anchor seal dry and sand it off with a r.o. sander or belt sander

ALAN HOLLAR
05-16-2016, 11:35 AM
Wipe and scrape what you can, then mineral spirits or VM&P naptha. Anchorseal is basically emulsified wax, so anything that will clean wax will work.

Tom Albrecht
05-16-2016, 3:33 PM
I called UC Coatings, just in case I run into the same problem.

They say if it's dried, then scrape off as much as you can and then go at it with hot & soapy water. It's a water based product-- that's why the the brushes loosen up again when you start using then again.

Prashun Patel
05-16-2016, 4:41 PM
Anchorseal 1 is close to being wax in mineral spirits. You can dissolve it with mineral spirits.

Anchorseal 2, I am unsure of.

One has to ask, though: is it such a mess that you can't just keep it on the bench? It'll eventually be abraded away.

John Sanford
05-17-2016, 1:29 AM
Anchorseal 1 is close to being wax in mineral spirits. You can dissolve it with mineral spirits.

Anchorseal 2, I am unsure of.

One has to ask, though: is it such a mess that you can't just keep it on the bench? It'll eventually be abraded away.

FYI, I don't know whether it's 1 or 2. I'll take a shot at it with mineral spirits. It's not a huge mess, but it is on the steel portion of my ORB (Old Rebuilt Bench). I'm concerned that the wax may cause things to slip when I'd prefer that they stay put.

Tom Albrecht
05-17-2016, 7:30 AM
Anchorseal 1 is close to being wax in mineral spirits. You can dissolve it with mineral spirits.

Anchorseal 2, I am unsure of.


Neither product has mineral spirits, or anything "close to mineral spirits" in it. They are both fully water based, without volatile compounds.

Leo Van Der Loo
05-17-2016, 6:04 PM
Neither product has mineral spirits, or anything "close to mineral spirits" in it. They are both fully water based, without volatile compounds.

That is correct, and the reason you can thin the sealer with some water if it has gotten too thick because of drying out.

Just add water and mix it up.

Frank Johnston
05-17-2016, 6:25 PM
FWW Ammonia is used to strip floor wax.