How do you spread glue?

[rudy de haas]

To make my panel doors I ended up cutting wider boards to 5.5", trimming off a 1/8th veneer with the table saw, and using the planer
to get everything to just over 1/2" thick. Now I have to glue the boards back together to form 15" wide panels for the cabinet doors.

While glueing up the first panel (I only have one set of clamps that works for these, so it's one at a time) I found spreading glue evenly
isn't as easy as others make it look - and that an old putty knive works well for spreading it evenly, but not as well as a finger. I also do not
know whether to put glue on only one of the two edges that meet up, or thinly on both. Doing both edges produces more squeeze out and thus cleanup, but I
don't know which produces the better join.

So, can someone please tell me how to do this right? How to spread the glue evenly, how to minimize cleanup, and whether to do both sides?

[Prashun Patel]

Thin and even. Thick just requires a lot of clean up.

On panels, I put it on just one side a little thinner than I think is prudent. Then rub the joint together. Then remove and look at where there are gaps and missed spots. Add to these spots as necessary. Then clamp the joint.
I keep the panels horizontal if there is squeeze out bigger than a b-b.

After drying, I use a beater plane to get it mostly level, and finally a cabinet scraper to get it perfectly flush.

[Garth Almgren]

I like silicone glue brushes (http://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-glue-brush) for spreading glue, but sometimes a finger is more readily available. :D
I've always been told to spread it on both surfaces. The trick is to minimize squeeze out while still getting full coverage. I usually fail miserably at minimizing squeeze out, but figure that too much glue is better than not enough.

[lowell holmes]

I buy a quantity of acid brushes. After a glue up session, I will wash the glue out of the brush, or if it's losing bristles, discard it. One package will last for a long time.

[Andrew Hughes]

I use many differant techniques for gluing.From the finger spread,Glue brush,Notched spreader,and last the roller for large surfaces.
Its good to think about what is best one for that joint.I will usually only add glue to one side if it's a panel like your doing.
But here's the thing,Some woods might benefit from two wet surfaces like oak with big pores.Hard maple not so much.
Sometimes I will even thin out my glue I've done my testing and it still bonds well.
The temperature at the time might change what method I use.
Its really impossible to say what is best.
Good luck Rudy.

[Von Bickley]

I use acid brushes. I buy a gross container and discard after I use them.

That reminds me, I need to order some.........

[Wayne Jolly]

If I do use a spreader that isn't directly and permanently attached to me, I also use the acid brushes but I cut them so the bristles are only about 3/8" long (a T-Mac tip of the week). I apply the glue to both faces, but as thin as I can make it while making sure the surfaces are completely covered with no gaps.


Wayne

[Al Launier]

I like silicone glue brushes (http://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-glue-brush) for spreading glue, but sometimes a finger is more readily available. :D
I've always been told to spread it on both surfaces. The trick is to minimize squeeze out while still getting full coverage. I usually fail miserably at minimizing squeeze out, but figure that too much glue is better than not enough.

My method as well using thr Rockler spreader. They also come as kits http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-piece-silicone-glue-application-kit, or http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-piece-silicone-glue-application-kit, but I prefer to buy/use the individual brush(s) as I think the sets are beyond what I need & i think are expensive. I coat both sides & tend to put too much on, leaving a lot of waste to clean off after clamping (haven't been able to shake that bad habit). I find the silicone bristles help to reduce excess glue & the brush cleans easily, even after the glue sets - just pull the glue off. I also use a short piece of 2x4 with a hole drilled to partial depth to hold the glue bottle upside down while waiting for the next glue application.

[Phil Stone]

I use acid brushes sometimes, especially in tight areas, but for larger laminations, I've found that old gift cards/room keys work great for evenly spreading a large area of glue.

[J.R. Rutter]

I don't spread it, just run a bead down the center. But then again, I don't care how messy it is, I just swipe one face flat while the glue is wet, and use that as a reference for later jointing/planing.

[Richard McComas]

337391

Acid brushes and art rollers.

[Martin Wasner]

I don't spread at all. Lay a bead of glue and let it squeeze out. Glue is cheap, my time isn't. You get good at it after a while at getting the right amount of glue on there.

[Mac McQuinn]

I use acid brushes and apply the glue thinly although thoroughly cover the surfaces. I don't want any voids, just an even, well attached joint I don't have to do over again due to a dry area. I use TB3 a lot and found if I clean the brush with hot water and soap afterwards, I can use a brush several times before discarding.
Mac

[Rich Engelhardt]

I like silicone glue brushes (http://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-glue-brush) for spreading glueSo do I - those things are great aren't they?


I still have and use acid brushes I bought at HF - but - I'm forever forgetting them when I glue up something & they always dry up and I end up tossing them after one use.

W/the silicone brush, you just pull the dried glue out of it & you're set to go.
Matter of fact, I don't even have to do that.
I let the glue dry in one & my wife picked it up and pulled the dried glue out.
She said it was "fun" - I guess in a "packing bubble popping" kind of way it is.....

Anyhow, I don't bother to clean the glue out anymore. I just hand her the dried brush and she has a ball. :D

[Cody Colston]

I don't spread at all. Lay a bead of glue and let it squeeze out. Glue is cheap, my time isn't. You get good at it after a while at getting the right amount of glue on there.

+1

I used to be meticulous at spreading the glue on edge joints until a pro furniture maker told me I was just wasting time. On 1" or thinner boards, run a bead of glue down the center of one edge, place the boards together and clamp. You will get squeeze-out on both sides along the joint which indicates full coverage. No spreading, rubbing necessary. As noted above, after a while you will become adept at judging how much glue to apply without having a lot of messy squeeze-out to clean up. Note: On a 1/2" thick board, it will be a very narrow bead of glue.

[Shawn Pixley]

Acid brush (that is tossed afterwards) thinly both sides. I'm not good on washing them out after. Use finger as necessary.

[Mel Fulks]

A bead is ok ,but not neccesasarily the fastest way. Most of the time we were gluing two or three panels at one time. If just one ,it was an unusually wide one. Stack the pieces on the clamps near the handles ,use two or three inch wide brush to do most of edges at one time. Then while placing them for clamping we would hit other edges. Usually used UF glue. Of course you have to get used to same order each gluing to be able to place and flip the pieces quickly observing the matching pencil lines. Usually put spring clamps on ends until clamps were tight. Slight hollow jointing helped to make the whole thing easier to manage without swiveling and sliding.

[Martin Wasner]

I still think the bead is faster. When doing drawer sides we typically do four sides at once, so a total of eight parts. Just stack them up in order, apply the glue, and pick up the whole stack at once and drop them in the clamps. Pull on the whole mess to squeeze/spread the glue out, then apply clamp pressure. Our drawer parts finish at 5/8", but start at 13/16". You can be pretty sloppy on alignment with two trips through the planer and a pass on each face in the widebelt.

[paul cottingham]

I used to use just pressure with a single bead on each board. I know, theoretically, that is sufficient but now I use the silicon glue spreaders that Lee valley sells http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=48479&cat=1,110,42967
cause I just feel like well spread glue works better. I would use my finger, but I just enough on the spectrum that I don't like glue on my fingers. Weird.

[Doug Hepler]

Rudy,

Acid brushes usually, but a "trim" size paint pad (about 1 1/2" square(?) ) is the best for getting a thin, even coating of Titebond. They cost more than acid brushes but you can easily rinse and re-use many times if you are as cheap as I am.

Doug

[Bill Conerly]

I have a plastic box, like part of a flatware organizer for the kitchen. Put an inch of water in it, then drop the used brush in it. Next time I'm in the workshop I pull the brush out to dry. Easier than cleaning my finger.

[Jim Finn]

I use an old credit card or gift card to spread glue. Artist brush for smaller surfaces. I keep the credit card and the artist brush in the same glass of water I have on my workbench.

[glenn bradley]

The magic "right" amount? Depends on the material and other things we probably don't even think about. A bead along one edge is fine if you're in a hurry AND you get squeeze out on both sides. I have fixed failed joints where you can still see the trail of the bead as the builder didn't think about absorption (poplar, pine and other thirsty woods can make starved joints).

For long edge joints the finger makes a great tool. PVA glue makers recommend glue on both surfaces but, then again, they sell the stuff ;-) I bought a six pack of these (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=48479&cat=1,110,42967&ap=1)so long ago I can't remember. I'm still using the first one . . . I think I know where the rest of them are . .. I think I got my money's worth.

[Roy Harding]

For long edges, like a panel glue up, I use a 3" roller. I use those "trim sets" you can buy in the paint section - the set comes with a tray and cover, a 3" roller and a couple of replacement roller sleeves. I keep the tray (with glue in it) inside a plastic freezer bag, stored in the shop refrigerator, for repeated usage. I replace the tray set occasionally, when it becomes too gummed up to remain useful. If you're doing this, get the cheap trim set with the all plastic roller - I tried one that came with a metal roller, and discovered that it rusts if stored in the glue - and little flecks of rust gets into your glue. For a panel, I stand all the pieces on one edge, and can "paint" all the surfaces at once.

For dovetails, finger joints, tenons and so on I use an acid brush. I never thought of trimming the acid brushes as someone else above mentioned he does - that sounds like a good idea and I'll be giving it a go.

[Bill Orbine]

Bead and finger on one edge on panel glue ups. Mate two pieces by hand and see if glue transfers well to other piece. Acid brushes on smaller joints (face frames, cabinet doors, etc.)

Wet rag on excess glue clean-up and towel dry.

[Bob Potter]

Maybe it's me but I will never use my finger to spread glue. I have enough trouble getting glue on places it's not suppose to be. I know you can have wet rag to wipe your finger on but for me only small brush and glue on one side only.
Bob