Traditional Drawer Construction

[Robert Goodwin]

I have read a couple of articles on how to build dovetail drawers that are inset into the face frame. I seem to be missing something. They mention cutting the drawer front so that you have an even reveal around the drawer opening. This is not a problem as long as the opening and your stock is square. The part I am missing is that when you build the drawer, the sides do not protrude down below the drawer front, so it seems to me, the drawer would rest on the face frame/dust frame, and there would be no reveal on the bottom portion of the drawer and twice the desired reveal on the top. I suppose the portion of the dust frame could be shimmed, but I would expect to see that mentioned in the articles. I hope this makes sense.

Thanks,
Rob

[Greg Wandless]

Rob,

The articles I have seen, the "right" way to fit a drawer front into its opening say that the drawer front should fit the opening exactly so there is no reveal. Be sure you to be sure to take into account seasonal variation so it doesn't freeze when the front swells. For tall drawer getting a keeping good fit will be a problem but short drawers the space (revel) that opens when the drawer front shrinks will be very small.

However, I had the same question when I was making some drawers, before I had read those articles. I solved it by make drawer sides a little wider than the drawer front and positioned the front up from the bottom the amount I wanted for the spacing. It worked but it not realy the "right" way the fit a drawer.

Hope this helps.

Greg

[Lars Thomas]

Robert, that's an interesting question. I'll be watching to see how others reply . . .

[Martin Shupe]

Go to the library and get Thomas Moser's new book.

I don't know what page, but there is a closeup of the front of one of the drawers.

If you look at the photo, you can see that the bottom of the drawer front has been planed about 1/16 inch deep and a half inch back. This allows the drawer sides to sit on the supports, and the front of the drawer has a reveal at the bottom.

If I ever get to one of their stores, I am going to ask them how they cut that...hand planed, or maybe router?

If I won the lotto, which would be awfully hard since I don't play, I would fill my house with furniture exclusively from two sources: Thomas Moser and Chris Becksvoort.

[Jim Becker]

Go to the library and get Thomas Moser's new book.

I don't know what page, but there is a closeup of the front of one of the drawers.

If you look at the photo, you can see that the bottom of the drawer front has been planed about 1/16 inch deep and a half inch back. This allows the drawer sides to sit on the supports, and the front of the drawer has a reveal at the bottom.

If I ever get to one of their stores, I am going to ask them how they cut that...hand planed, or maybe router?

If I won the lotto, which would be awfully hard since I don't play, I would fill my house with furniture exclusively from two sources: Thomas Moser and Chris Becksvoort.


We share exact appreciation for furniture...Thos Moser is my "hero" and much of my work is derived from his designs. I also recently built Chris' Shaker candle stand from the Taunton In the Shaker Style book. (Nakashima is also coming into play on my chair project...)

That all being said, the picture you are referring to is on page 143 of Tom's new book, Thos Moser Artistry in Wood. You need to look carefully to see the detail, but it's there. The offset is the full thickness of the drawer front.

The easiest way to accomplish this detail is to build the drawer "normally" and then pass the bottom of the drawer front across your jointer once to create the reveal before you assemble and glue it up.

I also recommend that you do not build your drawers until your casework is complete. In that manner, you can carefully craft the drawers to fit the opening, rather than the opposite. The exception to this is where you are using what I call the "single board" technique...the drawer front and the apron are all from one piece of material. In that case, you are calculating the opening and drawer front as part of the cutting process and MUST built a square carcass to have things work properly. This is the technique I used for the poplar Shaker-style desk I built for my niece and is pictured below.

<img border="0" src="http://sawsndust.com/images/kids-furniture/kids-desk-1.jpg">

BTW, the latest issue of Woodwork magazine (August 2003) features an article and interview with Chris Becksvoort. He has some very interesting things to say about the business...and the problems that many face trying to be successful in it.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I've started using a single dovetail guid on smaller drawers. By putting a 'stretcher' piece (flush with the top of the bottom opening) between the drawer opening and the back of the case, you can machine whatever height guide you need to raise the drawer to provide the reveal you want (which you will attach to the 'stretcher' piece).

I use a chamfer bit to rout the edges on the guide and the mating pieces that I glue to the drawer bottom, then plane or put the guide through the drum sander to reach the final thickness.

If this doesn't make ANY sense, I happen to be doing it this afternoon, and I'll take some pics and send them (and/or post) if you'd like. The dovetail guide also keeps the drawer from 'racking' against the sides as you open/close it. As many times as I used side guides, I never ever got one that worked as smoothly as I would've liked.

KC