Bandsaw for blank prepping

[Jeff Grantham]

Hello Creekers - I have a Delta bandsaw in the shop that only has 6" of clearance, that I'd like to upgrade to something with greater capacity (think they call this the resaw capacity?). I'd heard good things about the Laguna 14 Twelve and was planning on getting that, but just thought I'd solicit opinions from folks first... looks to run around $1,100 for the saw plus another $150 for the 'mobility kit', bringing it to $1,250. In that price range is there anything else that would be as good or better, or something cheaper that would serve the purpose? Primarily I'll be using it for prepping turning blanks from logs, and 6" is just proving to be not enough clearance. I'd like something with more like 10-12".

Anyone who has experience with this bandsaw, or others you think would be good alternatives, your input is welcome, thanks!

[Marvin Hasenak]

A lot of the callmakers use the Grizzly 04555P, it is a 14" bandsaw, with plenty of power. Cost is $545, but on sale for $445 plus shipping.

[Brice Rogers]

There are riser block kits for Delta bandsaws, as well as a number of others. It gives you about a 12 inch throat capacity. Here is one of several different places to buy the riser block: http://www.amazon.com/28-984-Height-Attachment-14-Inch-Bandsaws/dp/B00004Y9GC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

If you used to have a 93 or 93-1/2 blade, you will graduate to a 105" blade with this retrofit.

I suspect that it is important to use a sharp bandsaw blade with a pretty coarse tooth separation in order to clear out the sawdust from the cut and to keep from overloading the motor.

[Bob Bouis]

I got an MM24 recently with the idea that I could use the extra resaw capacity (24") for bowl blanks. However it turns out that a loglet 24" in diameter and 24" in height weighs about 250lbs.

Not sure that's helpful to you (in fact I'm sure it isn't), just wanted to caution against going overboard...

[Prashun Patel]

How big is your lathe?

I will submit that having the biggest, baddest bandsaw you can afford is a good thing; don't settle for 'good enough'.

The reason is that you want good power to muscle through thick, green blanks. You also want a nice beefy table that can support a blank nicely. And if / when you want to tilt it, a sturdy mechanism is nice.

I have a 19" G0514x2 Grizzly and really like it.

[Reed Gray]

Like Prashun said, how big are you turning? I have a Laguna 16HD which has a 4.5 hp Baldor motor, and easily cuts through anything I put on it, well as long as the blade is sharp. It works great for resawing. I used to use it a lot for making thicker blanks that had parallel sides, and smooth surfaces to put on my small bandsaw (it only cuts 6 inches high) so I could cut circles without bending or breaking the blade. I seldom use it for that any more. Look up my Chainsaw Chopsaw video. This makes it easy to cut flat, and fairly parallel slabs from a log round. If you turn lots of bowls, like a couple hundred a year, it comes in really handy. Great for any club. Huge time saver, but you do need the neighbors to be awake first... One side note, Laguna does make a good product, but their customer service is not the best.

robo hippy

[Don Frank]

A year ago I was faced with the same decision. I have had a delta with the riser block and a 3/4hp 110 motor for the last 30 yrs. I looked at a lot of bigger bandsaws and even tried to buy a bigger one at an auction or two. I ended up putting a 3hp 220v. motor on my 25yr old delta. I felt it might be like putting nitrous bottles on a pinto but it has performed really well for cutting bowl blanks. If I was needing the precision for re-sawing etc I would opt for a saw like Prashun owns. Since my main need for the bandsaw is making bowl blanks I've been very satisfied with the decision. I use a 3 tooth 1/2 inch blade and even with wet wood the saw gets the job done. I am going to make a larger bed or table top from 1/4 or 3/8" plate and perhaps make an adjustable pin arrangement to spin the blanks on.
My only complaint is the dust and shavings do not exit the saw very well. I am going to make some changes in the port locations after watching the robohippy video but will also foam the open areas in the casting behind the wheels so the dust can't settle in those pockets. I have a new 3hp grizzly dust collector that I have not hooked up to the saw yet so that should help as well. So far so good.

[Paul Williams]

I just went through the same decision except I owned a sears 12 inch band saw that would not accept a riser block. I considered the Jet 14 inch with the taller casting, the new Rikon 10-236, and ended up with the Laguna 14 BX. I like the saw and really like the foot break and dual dust collection ports. Because of the cost difference I would seriously consider adding a riser to your existing saw. If you decide on a new saw I think the new Rikon model and the Laguna are the better buys. The Laguna uses ceramic guides which is different than most manufactures, but they are extremely easy to adjust and do a good job of re-sawing. I don't think they are necessarily the best for tight turns, but you don't really do tight turns when cutting bowl blanks.

[Jeff Grantham]

There are riser block kits for Delta bandsaws, as well as a number of others. It gives you about a 12 inch throat capacity. Here is one of several different places to buy the riser block: http://www.amazon.com/28-984-Height-Attachment-14-Inch-Bandsaws/dp/B00004Y9GC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

If you used to have a 93 or 93-1/2 blade, you will graduate to a 105" blade with this retrofit.

I suspect that it is important to use a sharp bandsaw blade with a pretty coarse tooth separation in order to clear out the sawdust from the cut and to keep from overloading the motor.

I didn't realize such a thing existed, but a riser block looks to be a perfect solution at a fraction of the cost (leaving more $ for other toys!). Unfortunately that Amazon link says it's unavailable, and I haven't been able to locate it elsewhere.

Does anyone know where else I might find a riser block for a 14" Delta bandsaw? Model # = 62-142

Oh, and to answer other's questions, I'm splitting logs that are generally 12-16 inches in diameter, sometimes bigger - so when I try to put the 1/2 spit log through the bandsaw, often times they are taller than the 6" max. clearance.

[Jeff Grantham]

Like Prashun said, how big are you turning? I have a Laguna 16HD which has a 4.5 hp Baldor motor, and easily cuts through anything I put on it, well as long as the blade is sharp. It works great for resawing. I used to use it a lot for making thicker blanks that had parallel sides, and smooth surfaces to put on my small bandsaw (it only cuts 6 inches high) so I could cut circles without bending or breaking the blade. I seldom use it for that any more. Look up my Chainsaw Chopsaw video. This makes it easy to cut flat, and fairly parallel slabs from a log round. If you turn lots of bowls, like a couple hundred a year, it comes in really handy. Great for any club. Huge time saver, but you do need the neighbors to be awake first... One side note, Laguna does make a good product, but their customer service is not the best.

robo hippy

Reed - Wow, that "chainsaw chopsaw" is pretty ingenius! I may have to consider that as another alternative, though I'm not sure I could put something that slick together.

[John K Jordan]

About 15 years ago I put a riser block on my 14" Delta bandsaw and it worked very well for cutting thick, green wood. All the blade suppliers sell a longer blade made for a Delta or Jet with a riser block, 105" if I remember correctly. I processed a lot of turning wood with this saw as well as doing some serious resawing. (We once cut a 12' long 2x12 douglas fir board into four thin boards with this saw.)

Note that many of the Delta 14" saws have a tensioning bracket that may eventually bend from the stress. Itura Design sells a replacement bracket for this saw that is a lot stronger. I used to run 3/4" blades which required a lot of tension which was really too much for this saw. If I knew then what I know now, I'd stick to 1/2" blades with 3 tpi for all of my green wood processing.

I eventually bought an 18" Rikon and don't use the Delta much any more. The Rikon has a lot more power and will tension a larger blade easily. It has better dust collection built in as well, larger table, heavier components all around. It feels more suitable to working with larger chunks of wood and log sections.

The Delta with riser will probably do almost everything you need but if you have the budget and the space you won't be sorry buying a larger saw.

JKJ

[Brice Rogers]

Jeff,you may want to do some internet searching on this subject and also check ebay. I found a link that has links for using a Grizzly and a Jet riser block on the Delta as well as some other info. It may prove helpful. Let us know if any of this pans out.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50154

[Brice Rogers]

Go to eBay and search on bandsaw riser. There are 28 sellers of blocks and parts for a variety of models. I saw 3 listings from a seller to takes a "generic" block kit and remachines it work with a Delta.

It would be interesting to know how much modification is needed for the riser block.

[Prashun Patel]

I will also add that if your only goal is professing blanks then a small electric chainsaw may serve you well.

[Jeff Grantham]

Lots of good info, thanks everyone - back to my original question though, if I do go with a new bandsaw, anyone have experience/input on the Laguna 14|Twelve, or something comparable (think I saw a Jet 14" "Deluxe Pro" that has similar resaw capacity for $999)?

[David Sloan]

Hello Creekers - I have a Delta bandsaw in the shop that only has 6" of clearance, that I'd like to upgrade to something with greater capacity (think they call this the resaw capacity?). I'd heard good things about the Laguna 14 Twelve and was planning on getting that, but just thought I'd solicit opinions from folks first... looks to run around $1,100 for the saw plus another $150 for the 'mobility kit', bringing it to $1,250. In that price range is there anything else that would be as good or better, or something cheaper that would serve the purpose? Primarily I'll be using it for prepping turning blanks from logs, and 6" is just proving to be not enough clearance. I'd like something with more like 10-12".

Anyone who has experience with this bandsaw, or others you think would be good alternatives, your input is welcome, thanks!

I have had the 1412 for several months and love it. I did all the research and it seemed like it got the best reviews for a thousand dollar machine. Laguna has frequent 10% off sales so that helps. I converted it to 220. It is quiet, powerful with very little vibration. Fence is excellent. I did buy the wheelbase which is not essential but nice to have. I think its a great machine. I sold my 20yr old 500lb Grizzly which was powerful but vibrated like a steam engine and was impossible to tune. Great for roughing out blanks for turning but not for furniture making. Good luck!

[Pat Scott]

It sounds like you have the budget for the Laguna saw, so my vote is buy it instead of trying to upgrade your old saw. In the end I think you'd be happier. How many times have we tried to save money on something only to wish we had put that money towards buying new? It ends up costing us twice as much than what it could have.

I inherited my Dad's 14" Rockwell/Delta BS. I put a riser kit on it and all kinds of other upgrades (to the tune of $400 on upgrades). Here's the bottom line: I was trying to make the saw do something it wasn't designed to do. I know a lot of guys have put riser blocks on their saws and are happy with the end result. But the frame on those saws was not meant for resawing 12", nor tensioning a 105" blade. I never could get enough tension on the blades like I wanted, and I ended up cracking the aluminum block. More money for a replacement. Also the saw was so light weight that when I did try to cut 8"-12", the saw scooted across the floor. I haven't even got to the motor yet, which constantly stalled out and tripped the breaker. And then there's the table that no matter how tight I tightened the lock knobs, it would move under the weight of a big 12" half round log section and before you know it you're cutting at an angle. Wait, don't forget about dust collection which was a puny little 2-1/2" port. Believe me that is not enough for a 12" saw.

I also bought a Laguna LT14 BS when it first came out. I owned it for 8 years and it was a good saw. I had it when I inherited my Dad's saw, so I had two saws in my shop. My model Laguna only 8-1/2" resaw (later models had larger resaw), but the reason I sold it was to buy a ONE saw that would do everything that I wanted. The frame on the Laguna was solid, tensioning a blade was never a problem, the 2hp motor never bogged down or tripped breakers, the saw never scooted across the floor, the table never tilted on it's own, I love the Laguna guides, and dust collection was fantastic. If that Laguna had a 12" resaw I'd probably still own it.

I ended up selling my Dad's saw and got my $400 back, I sold the Laguna in 2 hours after posting it on Craigslist for $75 less than I paid for it 8 years earlier. What's that saying? Something like buying good tools only hurts once, but buying cheap tools continues to hurt. Personally I would buy Laguna over Jet also.

[Bob Bouis]

Before I got the minimax, I had a harbor freight 14" bandsaw. I'd outfitted it with a riser block (made for a grizzly, IIRC) and a larger motor (1.5 hp, but a real 1.5hp motor, one that would trip a 20-amp breaker if wired for 110v). The habor freight bandsaw has a peculiar four-speed setup, which had issues with belts slipping even with the stock motor. I assume I should have replaced the pulleys -- but what a waste. The guides never lined up with the riser block, the blade tension was poor, etc. I wouldn't encourage anyone to bother with trying to upgrade a crummy 14" saw.

One advantage to a larger saw is being able to mount larger blades. A 1" blade on the minimax can make straight cuts through a log standing on end no matter how thick it is (assuming you can get it on the table!). A thinner blade can't do it (at least not for long after it dulls) even on the big saw. That's something to consider. Cutting green wood is hard on bandsaws and bandsaw blades; you'd be happier if you could use cheaper blades with fewer teeth per inch, intended for sawmills. You need larger wheels to use them.

[John Grace]

If you have the funds, I would suggest the Laguna. They're frequently considered one of the premier saws available and their guide systems are excellent. As others have suggested, nobody ever cries over having bought a saw a size too big but a size too small is another story. Finally, whatever saw you decide upon, be sure to get the correct style of blade for what you'll be doing. A great blade can make up for some of the sins of a bad saw wheres as a great saw can be limited by a cheap or otherwise 'unworthy' blade.

[Reed Gray]

If I am cutting a log in half, I also cut a flat where the bottom of the bowl will be. Generally this is easier than turning it off, and it will help get it under the smaller bandsaw. Are you splitting like with a fro or axe and wedges? A bit more difficult to split off a flat bottom that way, not too bad with a chainsaw and marker pens for a line to follow.

robo hippy

[Jeff Grantham]

Well I did manage to find a guy who sells a riser block that will work with my bandsaw on eBay, for $220 (which seems like alot, but still alot less than a new saw). But I'm also now a little concerned that my 1/2 hp motor on my existing saw wouldn't be able to handle the larger capacity? I do have the fortunate situation of having come into a little extra spending $ for the shop, so I could buy a new one... question is is that the best use of my precious shop $$.


If I am cutting a log in half, I also cut a flat where the bottom of the bowl will be. Generally this is easier than turning it off, and it will help get it under the smaller bandsaw. Are you splitting like with a fro or axe and wedges? A bit more difficult to split off a flat bottom that way, not too bad with a chainsaw and marker pens for a line to follow.

robo hippy

Reed, No axe splitting for me! ;-) I'm splitting with a chainsaw, but often I won't cut the flat for the bottom, to try to save as much height to the blank as possible, and/or to keep as natural-edge bowls. This is primarily where I run into problems with the 6" max height.

[daryl moses]

I think you answered your own question "a little concerned that my 1/2 hp motor on my existing saw wouldn't be able to handle the larger capacity".
1/2 hp with a riser block is really pushing the limits IMO. Do what I and a lot of other wood-workers do. Keep the 14" saw for scroll cuts etc, and get a larger saw dedicated for resawing and cutting bowl blanks.
You'll spend much less time changing blades resetting guides etc. Makes life a lot easier.

[Reed Gray]

To cut 12 inches high, you need 1 hp at least, and that is with a good sharp blade.

robo hippy

[Pat Scott]

My Dad's Rockwell had been upgraded to a 3/4 hp motor from the original 1/2 hp. That 3/4 hp motor bogged down and stalled out all the time. It's tough cutting 12" of wet log. I had already sunk enough money into the saw and it still wasn't doing what I hoped it would, so I wasn't about to spend more on a new motor. Even with a new motor I'd still be left with a lightweight frame, lightweight saw, poor dust collection, etc. Save yourself frustration, I'd really encourage you to buy a saw that is built to resaw.

[John K Jordan]

To cut 12 inches high, you need 1 hp at least, and that is with a good sharp blade. robo hippy

I agree that is a good idea. However, for years I used the Delta 52-941 with a riser block. The motor plate doesn't say the HP but rates the motor at just over 8 amps at 110v.

I cut a lot of wood at or near 12" thick, both dry boards for resaw, reasonable dry blocks for turning, and at least a truckload of sopping wet green logs, various species, for turning blanks, both across and with the grain. I generally process log sections by cutting

I think the major factors for cutting thick wood: the blade type, sharpness, tension, and cutting speed. (Slower feed is not always better) I resharpened often.

JKJ