Chisel handle design

[Don Jeansonne]

I am looking at purchasing a set of chisels most to do basic work, not a lot of mortising. My question is about the handle designs. Some have a rounded wood design which I assume is better to par with. Others have an end that includes a metal ring or hoop which I assume takes the hitting abuse. Some brands offer chisels with both types of handles.
I will probably do mostly light hitting and don't think the ring is necessary.
Is the hoop design really necessary or will the conventional rounded handle be adequate and provide a more comfortable feel when parring, etc.

Any discussion is appreciated.

[Luke Dupont]

I think different people will give you different answers.

I am not experienced enough to say, but I highly doubt they are necessary unless you are really rough with your tools, or are using a metal hammer.

Paul Sellers, who I like to follow, mentions using chisels without a hoop for decades without any problems.

The worst that can happen is that you split your handle somehow, eventually. As I figure it, that's just a (unlikely) chance to give making your own handles a try!

[Kevin Hampshire]

Don, I think an honest answer gets to be a little complicated. Overall, I'd say the metal is much more important than the handle.

I use a "Wood is Good" mallet for carving and most lighter chisel work. Primarily because it was my carving chisel mallet and I got used to it. I'd use it on any wooden handle without hesitation and not worry too much about the handles.

I use a wooden shop-made joiner's mallet on my mortising chisels. The mallet and the chisels show wear and tear from it. They're tools and I know eventually the handles or mallet will end up wearing out.

That said, I've put some wear and tear on my tools but not worn anything out. I'm just a home woodworker and not earning a buck with these tools.

[Jim Koepke]

This is an area where I think a person needs to find a handle that fits their hand and style of work. An uncomfortable handle often leads to a tool not being used.

If you do not have a lathe to make your own handles it isn't difficult to reshape a handle to fit your hand using rasps, sandpaper and whatever else is at hand.

With the metal hoops there are the Japanese chisels with real hoops for a real purpose. I see a lot of hoops on western chisels that look to be nothing more or even less than a bottle cap with a hole in it. In other words, they are there for the looks not the function.

Almost all of my chisels are socket chisels. This lets me make handles anyway I want them.

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This general form works good for me with a rounded top and a ring at the base. This design helps me use a chisel with an old hand injury that causes troubles at times. They can also be tapped lightly with a small mallet when a little extra force is needed.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I only use wooden mallets to strike my chisels. Something like this is fine.


http://www.amazon.com/Crown-4-1-2-inch-Beechwood-Mallet/dp/B002S0OIW6

[Warren Mickley]

In traditional work, chisels for carpenters often had sockets, ferrules and rings, or some combination. Chisels for joiners and cabinetmakers had tangs and did not have sockets or rings. I have used chisels without rings for over forty years.

Here are some historic chisels: Nova Zembla (1596), Felibien (1667), Roubo (1769), Martin, (1813)

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[Ray Selinger]

Here is a link to my favourite handle shape http://galootopia.com/old_tools/chisels/swedish-chisels/solliden-style-chisel-handles/ The length of the thumb waist is important, as is the striking dome. If the dome is worn down, the handle feels too short.

[Bruce Haugen]

Here is a link to my favourite handle shape http://galootopia.com/old_tools/chisels/swedish-chisels/solliden-style-chisel-handles/ The length of the thumb waist is important, as is the striking dome. If the dome is worn down, the handle feels too short.

That's my favorite handle shape, too. I have a set of Hirsch chisels whose handle shape I didn't like and used the Berg pattern for all the new handles.

[Mike Cherry]

I bought one Lie Nielsen, one Veritas, and a small inexpensive set of Narex when I first got into the hobby. These are all normally recommended chisels when buying new. I took note of the comfort, but more importantly to me, the steel. I pretty much have decided on Lie Nielsens. I would have no problem recommending the Narex to someone who is not a tool junkie like me. They would be a really great general purpose set, they're inexpensive, and if you wanted to take a rasp or sandpaper to them to make them more comfy it wouldn't be a big deal.

[Mike Holbrook]

A few types that have not been mentioned yet are:

The Japanese make many types of chisels: Oire Nomi, general purpose chisels, Atsu/Taki Nomi, heavy striking chisels, Usu Nomi, paring chisels, Mukomachi nomi, mortise chisels and many other types. Some of the Japanese chisels are designed with rings so they can be struck with specially designed gennou, hammers.

There are excellent custom Swedish made chisels and gouges which are especially good at working green wood, available at Country Workshops.

Barr Specialty Tools hand forges chisels, gouges and other tools for cabinet making, chair building, framing...

Chisels can be a very specialized or general purpose tool. It may be a good idea to try a few of several types to see what works best for the type work you do rather than buying a set of chisels some of which do not get used. Two or three of several types of chisels may better prepare you for more kinds of work than a single more general purpose set. The other important factor is whether or not you want to be able to strike the chisels and what you plan to hit them with.

[Derek Cohen]

I discussed chisel design, and especially chisel handle design, in the review I wrote on the Veritas O1 chisels: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview.html

The handles of Veritas and LN/Stanley #750 are very different in use ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_m658973e6.jpg


My analysis of their handles is open to debate, of course, but this is how I saw it ...

This is how the Veritas handle looks in my hand …

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_20b657f9.jpg


This is the Stanley handle ..


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_67c78155.jpg


For me the difference is that the Veritas handle combines the ease to push along with the advantages of a paring chisel. For some, however, I am sure that the Stanley would be preferred with the balance towards being a chopping chisel, since the smaller handle alters the balance towards the blade.

Note that the Veritas, as with the LN, do not use hoops. I have no issue with using a hammer on them, however will not strike wood handles with a steel hammer head, such as a gennou. That is best done on hooped chisels, such as Japanese nomi.

The hammer I use for the Veritas PM-V11 chisels I have, which has ebony handles, is an 8 oz (225gm) brass-headed plane hammer with a hard nylon head on one side (I would only use the nylon side here). This combination is ideal for dovetailing. On nomi I use either a 225 gm or a 375gm gennou. The handles of Japanese bench chisels are designed to be struck, since that is the preferred method of use. Use a slick if paring.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_240f224e.jpg

Left-to-right: Koyamaichi, Blue Spruce, and Veritas.


Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Linnabary]

I guess my first question is, "do you own a lathe?" If so, then the discussion is very different. :)

Personally I find that making handles is one of the fun things I do in the shop that doesn't require a great deal of time or expense and can be an ongoing learning process of styles, materials, technique, etc. My last batch of handles came from a neighbor's Bradford pear tree, had no idea that stuff was so tough.

Made a handle and it's not quite what you wanted? Make another! :)


David

[lowell holmes]

I guess my first question is, "do you own a lathe?" If so, then the discussion is very different. :)
.......

David

A lathe is not required. You can shape them with shaves. :) You can tell what my opinion about the metal rings. They keep the handle from mushrooming when struck with mallets. Someone had used the larger chisel without a handle and the socket was mushroomed. I had to file the mushroom off to fit the handle. I think the metal rings are necessary if you are going to chop mortises with these chisels. I have made mortise and tenon joints on fences and gates with these chisels.

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[Bill Rhodus]

Don, lots of good info here and all of it relevent depending upon perspective. I normally recomend a new user buy the Narex chisels; good, inexpensive chisls that have hoops. These chisels are not the most comfortable in the hand but will begin to teach you what you like and don't like. After the new user feels he is ready to upgrade, these chisels can be sharpened to a bit steeper angle and used for chopping tasks as they have hoops. This will allow you to sharpen your new chisels to a more relaxed angle (there are some metalurgical considerations) that is better for paring and light chopping.

[Robert Belillti]

I am looking at purchasing a set of chisels most to do basic work, not a lot of mortising. My question is about the handle designs. Some have a rounded wood design which I assume is better to par with. Others have an end that includes a metal ring or hoop which I assume takes the hitting abuse. Some brands offer chisels with both types of handles.
I will probably do mostly light hitting and don't think the ring is necessary.
Is the hoop design really necessary or will the conventional rounded handle be adequate and provide a more comfortable feel when parring, etc.

Any discussion is appreciated.
I was looking to buy good quality bench chisels. I Google searched ‘premium quality chisels’ and was surprised to find really nice looking sets made by IBC. I didn’t know they also make chisels. No one seems to have mentioned these yet. Has anyone tried them? I already have an IBC blade chip breaker set in a Stanley #4 that my uncle gave me and I love it so I’ve decided to buy their chisels, or at least a 3/8” and 1/2” with the walnut handles to start. I’ll post my opinion after I’ve used them.
Rob B

[Warren Mickley]

Welcome to the forum, Robert. I would have trouble seeing these as premium quality. Fifty and sixty years ago manufacturers would make cheap chisel out of bar stock. They had no real bolster, just a little shoulder cut out of the bar. Nowadays people make chisels from bar stock and call it premium.

I was unable to find the length of the chisels and the length of the handles. I like a little over ten inches long for a bench chisel and enough length in the handle so I when I hold the handle in my left hand, I am touching only wood and there is clearance for the mallet not to bruise my knuckles. Something like five inches of bare wood. Also I generally replace the handle as the chisel is used up, making a longer handle to make up for loss of blade. I can't see that that would be possible with these IBC chisels.

I don't think I would not want to be hitting an aluminum end cap with my mallet. I will look for your impressions, Rob.

[Jim Koepke]

Robert, Welcome to the Creek.

I am some what of an old frugal tool buyer. I have bought a lot of old Buck Brothers, Witherby and other great chisels for the price of one IBC chisel.

If it were my nature to but the best new tools (in this case chisels) my tendency would be to look at the offering of PM v11 from Lee Valley. In my case this would be mostly for the handle ergonomics. I have trouble with an old injury to my right hand and gripping some handles. Many handles do not have a bulge at the base. To me they look like a slippery fish.

The idea of using one handle on multiple chisels seems kind of odd.

The "first observations" seem more like marketing prose than customer comments.

jtk