Setting up wedge bed jointer with spiral head

[Jesse Busenitz]

I've been messing around with my jointer trying to get it set up right, and have been having troubles, so I thought I see if anybody here had some suggestions. It's a Greenlee 16" wedge bed that I converted to a spiral head. I pulled of the two blade head, babbit assembly and fabbed a new assembly with pillow block bearings that would put it at the same height. So to set it up I've been leveling the outfeed with the head, as you can't move that, and then trying to make the infeed coplanar, but it seems like I'm still not getting a straight joint?:confused: Any suggestions?

[glenn bradley]

Are you saying you have succeeded in getting the infeed coplaner with the outfeed and still get poor results?

[Andrew Hughes]

Jesse we need more info.Even a pic of the machine.Im very good a setting up a jointer so are others here.
Are you use a machinist straight edge?How long are the beds I believe these things matter.

[Kevin Jenness]

You are on the right track. What equipment are you using for setup? An accurate 6' straightedge and feeler gauges should suffice. When I say accurate I mean within a couple thousandths over its length. Check along the length of the tables at each edge as well as diagonally. Once the tables are truly in plane, adjust the outfeed table height a thousandth at a time starting dead level with the knives. Use two sticks at least 3" wide and as long as the outfeed table and check the jointed edges against each other. Convex edges indicate the outfeed table is too high, concave edges and a snipe show it is too low. It is possible to have a hard time getting it right if the outfeed table is at all concave, in which case machining or hand scraping may be in order. A really accurate straightedge is the only way to track down the inaccuracies that can drive you crazy.

[Jesse Busenitz]

When I got it the tables were pitted and warped width wise, so I took the tables into a machine shop and they Mattison Maddison? ground it. I did just notice that the very edge of the steel lip on the out feed is now a little proud of the rest of the table (angles up. I haven't put a feeler gauge to it but I'm wondering if that's part of the problem. The tables are 3'5" each. The funny thing is, I've readjusted it several times, and each time I thought I got it fixed only to have it go out of tolerance in a couple months. It's like I forgot to tighten some bolts or something.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Oh fun....Pics are upside down.

[Andrew Hughes]

Bummer about the pics.So it looks like you have inclines at each corner.And your beds slide on the the Dt sashes.This is very similar to my Oliver Jointer.
You might be able to use the same set up procedure.
If you don't have the info I would be happy share.
You will need a precision straight edge.Oliver calls out for a five ft.I did mine with a four.
One thing I did learn from mine is the fence will affect the out feed set up since it sits on the table and will press down on one side so put it on when you start.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Andrew that would be great if you would share your method! Interesting thought about putting the fence on first....

[Kevin Jenness]

Jesse,

Start by checking the tables. The fact that they were recently machined is no guarantee that they are flat. A Mattison grinder is subject to wear and setup just as your jointer is. If the tables are flat (enough) and in plane and the table supports are tightened properly you should get acceptable results in practice, and the machine should remain aligned for years unless moved or sitting on a floor that is changing shape. If there are some local inaccuracies in the tables you may find that you can get acceptable results for face planing with sweet spots across the table width for edge jointing. If you have the patience for it you can improve on poor grinding with a machinist's scraper. The outfeed table may need to be adjusted minutely as the knives wear. If you lack an accurate straightedge, buy or borrow one, the longer the better.

Jointers are very simple machines but need to be set up precisely to do what they are designed to do.

[Andrew Hughes]

Tomorrow I will send you a Pm.Unless others would like to follow along.The other thing I thought I should mention is starting low then adjusting up worked the best for me.You will be trying to keep contact on all the shoe inclines even.

Aj

[Bradley Gray]

I have a 16" Fay & Egan wedge jointer. I also happen to have a 2 small machinist's jacks. These work extremely well for adjusting the wedge bed. I use a straight edge to determine which wedges need adjusting, place the jacks and loosen the bolts that hold the wedges. Then it is fairly easy to dial in the right location with the little screw jacks.