Marking Gauge Jones

[ken hatch]

I knew I had a few marking gauges squirreled away around the shop. I do have an excuse. I've never found the "perfect" marking gauge, one that will do everything well. Problem is most do not do anything well. I know it is a poor workman that blames his tools, that Lee Trevino hustled golf playing with a Coke bottle, but bottom line many marking gauges will not properly lock the stem in place.

Enough rant, here is a photo of the marking gauges I found while moving shop fixtures around. BTW, the reason for moving shop fixtures is to make room for the Plano Vertical Clamping fixture that should be here today or tomorrow.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh222/VTXAZ/markingGaugeB160503_zps5k3cnkxd.jpg

I counted just under thirty, the ones I use are towards the rear with the exception of the Hamilton gauge. For some reason it is too much of a tweener, the Tite-Mark or the Kinshiro works better x-grain and the Marples combination is better with grain. The Philly is another that should get more love but doesn't, I'm not sure why that is other than it is big and heavy.

What can I say other than there are a few extras when I need them.

[Luke Dupont]

As a newbie woodworker, the marking gauge has easily become one of my favorite tools.

Before I knew better, I was laying straight edges across my work and penciling lines in! Heh.

The contrasting accuracy and speed of a marking gauge is wonderful. I just need to make a larger panel gauge now.

I have to say, though - I haven't found the fence moving on me, either with the one I purchased, or the ones that I've made. I've used both screw and wedge type. Which way do you find it moving on you? Inwards, or out? That might help to trouble shoot the problem, if it's one with technique.

[Rob Luter]

I think they're cool too, but I only have a half dozen or so. I guess I need to play some catch up ball....

[Derek Cohen]

Ken, you're in good company. Here are some of mine (photo taken a while ago). Four I built (mortice, two "kinshiro types, and a wheel gauge). Others include Kinshiro, Colen Clenton (prize in an Oz tool competition), Veritas, Tite-Mark ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Gauges_zpsauodsbwb.jpg

About 15 years worth. All get used.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[William Adams]

and I'm still agonizing over whether or no to buy the 3-in-1 brass marking gauge from Lee Valley.... (and only have two, a Stanley 55, and a shop-made one, as well as a third on its way (Lee Valley pocket double-ended one)).

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Not to go off topic, but since you started it- I never knew the Lee Trevino story but I Google it. That's pretty cool. I used to hussle pool players with a metal chair leg shot with one hand. That arose from a challenge between myself and a friend who got bored playing each other. We started shooting one handed, then using found objects one handed. Now I probably shoot better with one hand, and can put English on the ball too.

Edit- I remembered I made a video once but it was a one-take video and I missed a couple of shots.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sd4RWSYDDJE

Back to topic- I love the wheeled marking gauges. I am no fan of scratching lines with a point. I also like the Japanese knife gauges. I own a few gauges, mostly wheeled like the Veritas. Right now the shop is strewn with lumber for the bench build so I will forego pics.

[Brian Holcombe]

I have a Kinshirou and a Matsui that I love, they're wonderful gauges. I've been attempting to win a few more Matsui gauges on eBay, but they've actually gone over the price you can buy them at for some reason, except one....which I fell asleep 5 minutes before it closed and managed to miss it by about $6.

I also have a LN panel gauge and a Blue Spruce gauge, enjoy them as well.

Hard not to have too many gauges, but I think you have a lifetime supply Ken, hehe.

[Bill Houghton]

Lordie, I'll never catch up!

I tend toward American gauges, myself, and find I can lock them down quite nicely.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

....which I fell asleep 5 minutes before it closed and managed to miss it by about $6.

If I had a nickel for every time that has happened to me waiting to snipe an eBay item....

[ken hatch]

Ken, you're in good company. Here are some of mine (photo taken a while ago). Four I built (mortice, two "kinshiro types, and a wheel gauge). Others include Kinshiro, Colen Clenton (prize in an Oz tool competition), Veritas, Tite-Mark ...



About 15 years worth. All get used.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

Most of mine are not as good looking as yours :)

ken

[ken hatch]

I have a Kinshirou and a Matsui that I love, they're wonderful gauges. I've been attempting to win a few more Matsui gauges on eBay, but they've actually gone over the price you can buy them at for some reason, except one....which I fell asleep 5 minutes before it closed and managed to miss it by about $6.

I also have a LN panel gauge and a Blue Spruce gauge, enjoy them as well.

Hard not to have too many gauges, but I think you have a lifetime supply Ken, hehe.

Brian,

What is really sick is I found myself googling "Sorby Marking Gauge" while taking a break from moving the deck chairs in the shop.

BTW, eBay had a buy it now for, IIRC, 25 UK Pounds. I stopped myself barely.

Sick, I tell you, that's sick.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

Derek,

Most of mine are not as good looking as yours :)

ken

Sounds like a marked gauge envy. :D

jtk

[ken hatch]

Here is one of my biggest gripes with many marking gauges. The stem and stock will not lock and maintain 90 degrees. I'll let Patrick come in and do the math because I know 89 degrees or 91 vs. 90 degrees will not make a rat's patooty but......It drives me bonkers to feel the fence move in relation to the stem once I lock the gauge down.

Here is a photo of stem/fence relationship between three marking gauges, one a cheap as they come Marples, one a pretty high dollar gauge, and the last a better Marples. The better Marples locks in at 90 degrees to fence and does not move. The other two not so much, they will move once locked, not fore and aft but side to side about 2 degrees.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh222/VTXAZ/markingGaugeAngle160503_1_zpsiyg4mz0h.jpg

Pay no attention to that round blue thing at the bottom but from left to right the better Marples, the cheap Marples, and the not very cheap gauge. The lines were made by locking the stem then putting fairly light pressure left and knifing a line followed by approximately the same pressure right and making a knife line. The right two knife lines diverge at about 2 degrees.

Is it easy to fix? Yep, all the maker has to do is pay attention to where the locking screw pushes the stem.

As always YMMV and does it make a big whoop, not really just me being cranky.

ken

[Mike Cherry]

I've got no where near as many gauges, but I understand the journey to find your fave. If I find a favorite, I'll let ya know. I like the titemark for cross grain and getting a board to thickness. I just can't get the hang of the Marples style gauges for with the grain marking. Knife or pin, I can't get it. I'm still looking for my favorite marking knife too.

[ken hatch]

I've got no where near as many gauges, but I understand the journey to find your fave. If I find a favorite, I'll let ya know. I like the titemark for cross grain and getting a board to thickness. I just can't get the hang of the Marples style gauges for with the grain marking. Knife or pin, I can't get it. I'm still looking for my favorite marking knife too.

Mike,

Most folks use too much pressure on the pin and not enough on the fence. It's a marking gauge, not a trough gauge :).

The knife in the photo is a Swiss Made #1 Chip Carving Knife. It is the best marking knife I've found, the blade is thin, very slightly flexible, and it fits my hand. I've kissed a bunch of frogs finding it including some of the high dollar spearpoint knifes as well as the cheapie from LV. Thick blade, thin blade, spear point, single bevel it makes no never mind, the Swiss Made works better. Of course as always YMMV.

Maybe one of my next posts should be laying out all the marking knifes I've tried, maybe not as many as the marking gauges but....there are a few.

ken

[Stew Denton]

Hi Ken,

I don't even have one marking gauge........yet. It's on my list of things to make when things slow up a little.

Arizona is a little out of my way, but if you ever decide to have a garage sale of some of your rejects......

Stew

[Bill Houghton]

Most folks use too much pressure on the pin and not enough on the fence. It's a marking gauge, not a trough gauge :).

I find, when planing a board to a finished width/thickness, that a fairly deep mark is a good thing; when I see the wood starting to feather at the edge, I know I'm reaching my mark.

But I get there by repeated runs with the gauge, not all at once.

[Chuck Hart]

Ken I have that problem with marking knives. I am still looking for one I like. Where did you buy the carving knife? It looks very close to what I am looking for in a knife. Thanks...Chuck

[bridger berdel]

jeeze, Ken
you're thinning the marking gauge herd again? It wasn't that long ago I vacuumed up the loose ones lying around your shop....



I knew I had a few marking gauges squirreled away around the shop. I do have an excuse. I've never found the "perfect" marking gauge, one that will do everything well. Problem is most do not do anything well. I know it is a poor workman that blames his tools, that Lee Trevino hustled golf playing with a Coke bottle, but bottom line many marking gauges will not properly lock the stem in place.

Enough rant, here is a photo of the marking gauges I found while moving shop fixtures around. BTW, the reason for moving shop fixtures is to make room for the Plano Vertical Clamping fixture that should be here today or tomorrow.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh222/VTXAZ/markingGaugeB160503_zps5k3cnkxd.jpg

I counted just under thirty, the ones I use are towards the rear with the exception of the Hamilton gauge. For some reason it is too much of a tweener, the Tite-Mark or the Kinshiro works better x-grain and the Marples combination is better with grain. The Philly is another that should get more love but doesn't, I'm not sure why that is other than it is big and heavy.

What can I say other than there are a few extras when I need them.

[Frederick Skelly]

Maybe I'm missing out on something? I love my hand tools, but I only have 2 of the LV wheel marking gauges. They work really well for me. Did I just get lucky and stumble onto a solution that suits my needs right off the bat, or am I missing something important? :confused:

Fred

[ken hatch]

jeeze, Ken
you're thinning the marking gauge herd again? It wasn't that long ago I vacuumed up the loose ones lying around your shop....

Bridger,

I've been meaning to call, I'm in a git rid of stuff I don't need frenzy and there are a couple or three things you might want.

ken

[ken hatch]

Ken I have that problem with marking knives. I am still looking for one I like. Where did you buy the carving knife? It looks very close to what I am looking for in a knife. Thanks...Chuck

Chuck,

The local Woodcraft has 'em or you can order from Woodcraft online if there isn't a store close by. It is their catalog: pfeil Swiss made Chip Carving Knife #1Item #05Z11 pfeil Swiss made.

I think you will like it.

ken

[ken hatch]

Maybe I'm missing out on something? I love my hand tools, but I only have 2 of the LV wheel marking gauges. They work really well for me. Did I just get lucky and stumble onto a solution that suits my needs right off the bat, or am I missing something important? :confused:

Fred

Fred,

Just lucky I guess, seems I'm always kissing frogs.

ken

[Derek Cohen]

Maybe I'm missing out on something? I love my hand tools, but I only have 2 of the LV wheel marking gauges. They work really well for me. Did I just get lucky and stumble onto a solution that suits my needs right off the bat, or am I missing something important? :confused:

Fred

Hi Fred

I love the wheel gauges. When sharp (you do sharpen them, don't you?) they cut a fine line. The finer the line, the more accurate you will be.

Wheels and gauges rule across the grain (they do pretty well with the grain as well as long as you take very light passes to start). Knives are better than wheels when one uses the gauge to slice away edges of grooves, tenon shoulders or other walls. This is a time when it pays to shoot the ends of stretchers square and mark the shoulders of a tenon with a gauge (as opposed to scoring with a knife and a square. Having said this, you can use a square and a knife to tune a shoulder as well).

Wheel- and knife mortice gauges have bevels that face each other to create square edges. Single wheel/blade gauges do not do this. It is not an important factor until you want to use the gauge to slice the edge (to square it up or to widen it a smidgeon). In other words, it helps to have a gauge such as the Veritas double wheel or a Kinshiro double knife.

Similarly, a double knife (or a pin) gauge is better than a double wheel gauge for marking mortices. The wheel gauges do not work well when used in tandem since they do require more downforce generally, and then double this when used in tandem. I have not have much success with the double bladed wheels for Tite-Mark or LV in this department. The Kinshiro is my go to, however it is not able to hold a setting for multiple depths, such as when marking a stretcher and then an inset table leg. The LV double wheel is better here, with the wheels used individually. Alternately, use two wheel gauges or a gauge with a dedicated spacing for a mortice chisel (this is an argument for several gauges as you do not want to take the two out of play, or have to reset them again for different tasks).

Original Kinshiro on the right, shop-modified single blade copy on the left ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_m6481cde7.jpg

"Cassette" mortice gauge I built. It uses fixed width blades ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_1ff5cd98.jpg

Shopmade wheel gauge ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Mortice-CuttingGauges_html_3ec0b08.jpg

Veritas double wheel gauge (marking drawer groove) ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers_html_43caa7e8.jpg

Make your own "Western Kinshiro (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/CuttingGauges.html)" ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Cutting%20guiage/gauges7.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Cutting%20guiage/Gaugepoint2_zps029b0fd1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[david charlesworth]

Derek,

I think i might win numerically, but that's about 46 years.

Mostly I actually use modified cheapest Marples. No redundant brass to stop me getting the shaft square to the head. Colen's modification to stop the rock. Pin repositioned to be seen and turned into crescent shaped knife with flat side.

Have been trying to think up the perfect design and failed!

Best,
David

[Derek Cohen]

Hi David

I know that you modify your Marples to improve visibility. A benefit of the wheel- and knife gauges is their visibility. I particularly like the knife gauges since they produce a more defined cut.

I assume that you have used these gauges. What is your impression, and compared against the modified Marples (which would have a blade similar to the last gauge I showed)?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for tutoring me on this Derek. That helped!
Fred

[lowell holmes]

You can make your own. Check this article.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/mystery_of_the_marking_gauge

[david charlesworth]

Derek,

I have many of the ones you show. Just a few observations.

Clenton best for large work, can't see pin.

Japanese, very nice indeed, but nothing to pivot off to control depth of cut.

Wheel gauges do not seem to cut so deep as knife. Not such a precise start and stop.

Your "Western Kinshiro" looks great. Why not tilt pin for visibility?

best wishes
David

[Brian Holcombe]

David,

Having used the Kinshirou and another gauge by Matsui Measure, it's easy to control depth of cut. The blades are an offset spear point, tilt more toward the user to reduce depth and further away to increase it.

Also very handy if you like to karate chop thin straight grained stock, I like to do that.

[Derek Cohen]

Your "Western Kinshiro" looks great. Why not tilt pin for visibility?

Thanks for the observations David.

Regarding the "Western Kinshiro", the pin is shaped into a knife and then slightly rounded at the tip. This design came from Colen Clenton (who is a really nice guy).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Cutting%20guiage/gauges4.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Cutting%20guiage/gauges5.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Voigt]

Mostly I actually use modified cheapest Marples. No redundant brass to stop me getting the shaft square to the head. Colen's modification to stop the rock. Pin repositioned to be seen and turned into crescent shaped knife with flat side.



Hi David,
What is the modification you make to stop the cheapo gauges from rocking?

[Phil Stone]

How does one sharpen the wheel on a wheel gauge?

[Chuck Hart]

Chuck,

The local Woodcraft has 'em or you can order from Woodcraft online if there isn't a store close by. It is their catalog: pfeil Swiss made Chip Carving Knife #1Item #05Z11 pfeil Swiss made.

I think you will like it.

ken


Thanks Ken...I will go by there this week and pick one up.

Chuck

[Frederick Skelly]

How does one sharpen the wheel on a wheel gauge?
I don't know if there's a better way. But I take it off the tool and work the flat side down on a 600 grit stone, then 1200 then 6000. Then reinstall. YMMV of course.

[Steve Voigt]

I counted just under thirty, the ones I use are towards the rear with the exception of the Hamilton gauge. For some reason it is too much of a tweener, the Tite-Mark or the Kinshiro works better x-grain and the Marples combination is better with grain. The Philly is another that should get more love but doesn't, I'm not sure why that is other than it is big and heavy.

What can I say other than there are a few extras when I need them.

Ken,

In your sea of marking gauges, have you ever tried a twist lock type (where the fence mortise looks like a comma)?

I was thinking I'd make one, more because it looks fun to make than for anything else. ut I'm curious to know if anyone likes them.

[david charlesworth]

Thanks Brian. For full length marking that works well, but for delicate spaces between dovetails I prefer my narrow pin/knife.

Steve,

Imagine a square shaft in a slightly sloppy square hole.

Now tilt one side of the shaft, ( i.e. plane it out of square) the side opposite the tightening screw.

As the screw is tightened, the shaft now twists in the hole and becomes stable, if the tilt is sufficient!

I learned this clever solution from a Colen Clenton gauge, where the shaft is actually a rectangle section, with slope.

David

[Steve Voigt]

Thanks Brian. For full length marking that works well, but for delicate spaces between dovetails I prefer my narrow pin/knife.

Steve,

Imagine a square shaft in a slightly sloppy square hole.

Now tilt one side of the shaft, ( i.e. plane it out of square) the side opposite the tightening screw.

As the screw is tightened, the shaft now twists in the hole and becomes stable, if the tilt is sufficient!

I learned this clever solution from a Colen Clenton gauge, where the shaft is actually a rectangle section, with slope.

David

Thanks for the response David, that is interesting. I have made gauges with trapezoidal beams, but not ones that were intended to twist.

I googled and found the FWW video where they demonstrate your technique of drilling the pin hole at an angle to improve visibility. Looks like a good idea--I may try that.

[Patrick Chase]

I knew I had a few marking gauges squirreled away around the shop. I do have an excuse. I've never found the "perfect" marking gauge, one that will do everything well. Problem is most do not do anything well. I know it is a poor workman that blames his tools, that Lee Trevino hustled golf playing with a Coke bottle, but bottom line many marking gauges will not properly lock the stem in place.

Enough rant, here is a photo of the marking gauges I found while moving shop fixtures around. BTW, the reason for moving shop fixtures is to make room for the Plano Vertical Clamping fixture that should be here today or tomorrow.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh222/VTXAZ/markingGaugeB160503_zps5k3cnkxd.jpg

I counted just under thirty, the ones I use are towards the rear with the exception of the Hamilton gauge. For some reason it is too much of a tweener, the Tite-Mark or the Kinshiro works better x-grain and the Marples combination is better with grain. The Philly is another that should get more love but doesn't, I'm not sure why that is other than it is big and heavy.

What can I say other than there are a few extras when I need them.

Wow, that's an impressive collection. Out of curiosity what do you think of the Veritas dual-arm gauges? (of which you appear to have 2?).

I have a love-hate relationship with that gauge - after I use it to cut a bunch of M&T joints I start to hate it (I've always found it a little finicky to adjust), but then I try something else and remember why I got the dual-arm gauge to begin with. To paraphrase Churchill it's the worst option except for all of the others.

[Patrick Chase]

Here is one of my biggest gripes with many marking gauges. The stem and stock will not lock and maintain 90 degrees. I'll let Patrick come in and do the math because I know 89 degrees or 91 vs. 90 degrees will not make a rat's patooty but......It drives me bonkers to feel the fence move in relation to the stem once I lock the gauge down.

Hah, I didn't read this thread until now. I actually agree with you - non-perpendicular gauge arms are annoying. The math says it shouldn't matter even when transferring measurements (1 deg perpendicularity error = .02% length error - happy now? :)) but it messes with my head anyway.

[Patrick Chase]

I don't know if there's a better way. But I take it off the tool and work the flat side down on a 600 grit stone, then 1200 then 6000. Then reinstall. YMMV of course.

This is what I do as well. I also strop the bevel on a piece of MDF with an appropriately radiused groove to remove any burr from sharpening.

[ken hatch]

Ken,

In your sea of marking gauges, have you ever tried a twist lock type (where the fence mortise looks like a comma)?

I was thinking I'd make one, more because it looks fun to make than for anything else. ut I'm curious to know if anyone likes them.

Steve,

I've never used one or seen one in the wild but I suspect they would work very well.

ken

[ken hatch]

Wow, that's an impressive collection. Out of curiosity what do you think of the Veritas dual-arm gauges? (of which you appear to have 2?.

I have a love-hate relationship with that gauge - after I use it to cut a bunch of M&T joints I start to hate it (I've always found it a little finicky to adjust), but then I try something else and remember why I got the dual-arm gauge to begin with. To paraphrase Churchill it's the worst option except for all of the others.

Patrick,

I have two because I couldn't believe something from LV wouldn't be the best :o. I put the stem locking device on both and it helped. BTW, the execution is pretty good other than sometimes the stem will slip (cured with the locking attachment), my problem with them is personal preference. I'd rather use a pin gauge with the grain vs. a cutting gauge.

ken

[david charlesworth]

My gauge modification, can be seen working on you tube, 1minute ten seconds into this clip.

An extract from the DVD Secret Mitre Dovetail - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-aT7WIdydg)

David

[david charlesworth]

I was hoping for some feedback about the gauge modification in use?

It is so much clearer in action rather than in words.

David

[ken hatch]

I was hoping for some feedback about the gauge modification in use?

It is so much clearer in action rather than in words.

David

David,

I've dug out a couple of candidates from the pile, I just need a couple of minutes to do it. I expect it will work very well because it does what should have been done when the gauge was made, set the screw so it pushes the stem into a corner that way it can not rock.

I need to look at some old gauges that were made before machines, I'll bet the stems were not made square. Our ancestors were a wile bunch I wouldn't put it pass 'em :).

Thanks for posting a easy fix.

ken

[david charlesworth]

Ken,

PLease let me know how it goes.

David

[Jeff Ranck]

I have resisted buying or making the traditional western pattern marking gauge because I don't like the pins hidden under the arm. This may actually encourage me to give them a try. I have the LV wheel gauge, but for some reason we've never really clicked. I also have some very inexpensive Japanese "bent blade" pattern gauges, but for some reason they seem to be awkward in my hand - I can't seem to figure out how to hold them comfortably. The screw on top goes where I want to put my finger and so I can't seem to get them situated correctly.

So this thread has been really helpful for me.

[david charlesworth]

Excellent. I do find that seeing the pin/knife is a huge advantage.

David

[James Waldron]

Excellent. I do find that seeing the pin/knife is a huge advantage.

David

I was taught to attend to the fence, not the pin/knife. It's the most important part of accuracy; if the fence deviates from proper registration, the line wanders. The pin/knife is fixed relative to the fence and doesn't have any independent ability to deviate. If you mind the engagement of the fence, it doesn't matter if the pin/knife is visible or not; if you're not looking there, it's just immaterial. It is ingrained in me now, but I do remember it took a bit of effort at first to watch the fence and ignore the pin/knife.

[lowell holmes]

I have several marking knives, but the one I use most often is the one Paul Sellers provided in classes I attended.

That is a box cutter. You just rotate the blade so that the near side of the bevel is vertical. It gives you a sharp easy to follow scribed line to follow. You can make knife wall with it also.

[david charlesworth]

Jim,

You are quite right about the fence, but not about visibility.

There are times when I want to start and stop a gauge line in specific places.

David

[Jeff Ranck]

I was taught to attend to the fence, not the pin/knife. It's the most important part of accuracy; if the fence deviates from proper registration, the line wanders. The pin/knife is fixed relative to the fence and doesn't have any independent ability to deviate. If you mind the engagement of the fence, it doesn't matter if the pin/knife is visible or not; if you're not looking there, it's just immaterial. It is ingrained in me now, but I do remember it took a bit of effort at first to watch the fence and ignore the pin/knife.

Sure, but when you are trying to set the gauge, I find it hard to do if I can't see/have difficulty seeing where the pin is relative to the fence.

[bill howes]

Ken,

In your sea of marking gauges, have you ever tried a twist lock type (where the fence mortise looks like a comma)?

I was thinking I'd make one, more because it looks fun to make than for anything else. ut I'm curious to know if anyone likes them.
337398337399
Steve,
I made one, or rather started out as you can see but ended up just sticking a pencil in ,rather than a knife. It was hard to set to exact lengths. Probably because you had to twist and mostly because I could never remember to twist clockwise or counter clockwise and would end up starting again. I still use it for a fixed purpose in chair making but never change. Fun to make though
Bill

[Steve Voigt]

Steve,
I made one, or rather started out as you can see but ended up just sticking a pencil in ,rather than a knife. It was hard to set to exact lengths. Probably because you had to twist and mostly because I could never remember to twist clockwise or counter clockwise and would end up starting again. I still use it for a fixed purpose in chair making but never change. Fun to make though
Bill

Bill,
Thanks very much for posting your gauge. Looks good! Do you recall the radii you used for the beam? I was thinking 3/4 and 7/8 would work, but I'm open to suggestions.

Regarding setting, I was imagining that it would be set much the same way Richard McGuire sets an English gauge (http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/a-good-gauge/), by getting it close and then tapping. FWIW, I found my English gauge pretty useless, because of the difficulty of setting it, until I watched Richard's video. So hopefully that will work. Anyway, thanks again!

[bill howes]

Bill,
Thanks very much for posting your gauge. Looks good! Do you recall the radii you used for the beam? I was thinking 3/4 and 7/8 would work, but I'm open to suggestions.

Regarding setting, I was imagining that it would be set much the same way Richard McGuire sets an English gauge (http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/a-good-gauge/), by getting it close and then tapping. FWIW, I found my English gauge pretty useless, because of the difficulty of setting it, until I watched Richard's video. So hopefully that will work. Anyway, thanks again!


If remember correctly the rod started with a 3/4 inch diameter, and was shaped to its comma shape, initially with a 1/8 inch groove and then using a little rebate plane. The whole was drilled to the smallest diameter (I believe 5/8) and the filed to shape
You will have to show us your result if you do make one. You may have gotten me thinking about finishing the project.

[Jim Koepke]

Not a whole fleet like Ken at the start of this thread.

337440

The two Stanley 12-065 gauges have the beam shaped to help prevent rocking. Some of the older Stanley gauges have rounded tops and bottoms to also help prevent this.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Ok ok. You gauge-crazys got to me with this thread. So I just bought some brass and I'm gonna try to duplicate a small gauge I saw on the Blue Spruce web page. Geez guys! Like I need another tool? Thanks a lot for helping me to find a new addiction.
Fred :eek::)

[Jim Ritter]

Here is one I made a number of years ago for a tool swap on another forum. The blades are high speed steel from a used Tersa planer blade. The back of the beam is tapered for dovetail marking and it has a notch for guiding a pencil if you don't want to use the cutter.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/2efed016de45489eb6947c4565f2a54b_zps062b8c44.jpg

Jim

[William Adams]

I am in love (w/ your marking gauge) — will have to draw that up (unless you have drawings you’d be willing to share?) — the dual-function for marking dovetails catches my cupidity perfectly.

[Jim Ritter]

Thanks William but it's not my design in general. I added the taper for dovetails, the pencil notch and originally it was made for a pin, but like many I wanted a blade out where I could see it. Send me a PM with your email and I'll see if I can find the drawings that were shared with me, sans my modifications.
Jim

[Frederick Skelly]

Here is one I made a number of years ago for a tool swap on another forum. The blades are high speed steel from a used Tersa planer blade. The back of the beam is tapered for dovetail marking and it has a notch for guiding a pencil if you don't want to use the cutter. Jim

That's a really nice tool Jim. Is the knob the only thing that holds the arm square to the fence, or is there a pin or something I can't see that also helps keep it square? (I ask because I'm making a similar tool out of wood.)

[Jim Ritter]

Here is another view. The beam rides in a slot in the body.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/5445d108c6a1b62f16bc5f8189ae01d9_zpsf64ac4d5.jpg

Jim

[Frederick Skelly]

Here is another view. The beam rides in a slot in the body.

Jim

Thanks Jim. I didn't snap to that. I appreciate the idea!
Fred

[Jim Ritter]

You're welcome Fred. I was pleased when the recipient of the gauge gave the locking knob an upgrade.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/image_zpsazvi4ude.png

Jim

[Frederick Skelly]

That's a nice touch!

[allen long]

Dang it guys! Now I am going to have to build three of these for my son's and me! (My daughter will inherit the third if she wants it.) And some panel gages too.