Need Recommendations for TS Blades

[Mark W Pugh]

OK, if I wanted to buy a blade for ripping hardwood and a blade for cutting sheet goods, which blades would I go with?

For ripping, I don't see ripping anything thicker than 1", for now.

Sheet goods, usually 3/4" and 1/2" ply.

I know there is a plethora of blades out there. I don't want to break the bank, but I don't want a throw-a-way blade either.

Thanks

ps I know this has been covered in various threads, just trying to consolidate to one specific thread.

[scott spencer]

For ripping, any of the 24T to 30T rippers from top brands should be fine....Infinity 010-024, Freud LM72 or LM74, CMT 201.024.10, Forrest 20T, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, etc....~ $45-$90. The lower the tooth count, the easier the cut...the higher the tooth count, the cleaner the cut as a general rule of thumb. Full kerf for 2hp+, 3/32" TK for smaller motors. If you have a 3hp+ saw, you could easily rip 1" with a good 40T blade....the Delta 35-7657 is the best bang for the buck going at ~ $30 shipped from Cripe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-35-7657-10-x-40T-Gen-Purpose-Carbide-Saw-Blade-/331802730339?rmvSB=true).

For sheetgoods with typical hobbyist volumes, I'd go for a 60T to 80T Hi-ATB grind. It'll have the lowest tearout of any grind, but will have the shortest edge life. A typical hobbyist should still get plenty of cuts between sharpenings....blades like this can last me a few years. Infinity 010-060 or 010-080, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10, Forrest WWI 60T or Duraline 80T or 70T Ply blade - ~ $65-$125.

Bargain Blades - 80T Oldham Pro (made in the US), precision 80T ATB - ~ $32 shipped from Cripe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330499916721?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649&rmvSB=true)

You could always go with the inexpensive Irwin Marples or Freud Diablo series blade made in Italy. Both offer decent 24T, 40T, 50T, 60T and 80T options for ~ $30-$50 each.

[Robert Engel]

Scott pretty much summed it up. Generally you can't go wrong with a Freud blade and they are available at Home Depot.

I picked up a Freud Industrial glue line rip for doing some tenons I was very impressed.
I also like the CMT blades.

If your saw is less then 1 3/4HP thin kerf blades are the ticket.

[Lee Schierer]

I use mostly Freud blades and have not been disappointed with how they cut. I just purchased a glue line rip blade to replace a thin kerf rip blade and have not noticed any bogging down on my saw, which is a Craftsman 1-1/2 Hp saw.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

For general purpose ripping, I use a 9" thin kerf Freud ripping blade. It can cut close to 2-1/2", and is a bit cheaper than a 10" blade.

"Sheet goods" covers a lot of ground. For MDF, particle board or cheap plywood, I use a 60 tooth ATB blade. For anything with high quality veneered faces, I use a Freud LU85 Ultimate cutoff blade.

[Jim Finn]

I use 10" thin kerf blades from Diablo. 24 teeth. I only rip or re-saw on my table saw and these blades give an excellent cut. Good enough for a glue up , skipping the jointer altogether. I found combination blades will not give me as good a cut surface. I seldom cut plywood.

[Martin Wasner]

Anybody ever use a hollow tooth blade in a tablesaw for cutting sheet stock?

[Jon Endres]

For ripping, I have a Freud LM74R010 30 Tooth TCG Glue Line Rip blade. I don't use it very often unless I have large quantities to rip - one or two boards doesn't count. For almost everything else, I keep a variety of 40-60T crosscutting blades in the saw. I don't have any special preferences although I am partial to Freud blades, even the Diablo line. I do have a new Ridge Carbide TS2000 Super Blade but I haven't used it yet.

[Cody Colston]

For 1" hardwoods and 3/4" plywood, what about using 7 1/4" blades? You can get the Freud blades for just about any application at the box store and HP wouldn't be an issue. They are also very cheap <$10 compared to a 10" blade.

I'm just asking, not recommending.

[Bruce Wrenn]

The Delta blade (7657) that Scott mentions is what stays on my saw most of the time. I've even got an older one made under the DeWalt name. Same blade, but different labeling. Order two from Cripe, and your per blade costs drop by about 40%.

[Allan Speers]

Mark,

Good suggestions all around, but as always I recommend you simply call Carbide Processors and ask them. They have a large selection of top (pro quality) brands, very competitive prices, and excellent tech support.

- They don't even mind dealing with us lowly hobbyists. :o

[scott spencer]

For 1" hardwoods and 3/4" plywood, what about using 7 1/4" blades? You can get the Freud blades for just about any application at the box store and HP wouldn't be an issue. They are also very cheap <$10 compared to a 10" blade.

I'm just asking, not recommending.

Most 7-1/4" blades are thinner than even a typical 3/32" thin kerf blade, so will require an extra thin splitter or riving knife if you use one.

[Earl McLain]

Mark,

Good suggestions all around, but as always I recommend you simply call Carbide Processors and ask them. They have a large selection of top (pro quality) brands, very competitive prices, and excellent tech support.

- They don't even mind dealing with us lowly hobbyists. :o

What he said. And their web site is a great resource as well. Good people to work with, knowledgable, and a Friend of the Creek.

Also--through this forum i've picked up several really nice used blades from folks changing direction in either work or tooling. All have been well-cared for and arrived sharp (possibly sharper than new--thanks Andrew!!) That has allowed me to build on the few Freud Industrials i had bought new to put together a great assortment of top-quality blades over the past 3 or 4 years at a cost that would rival buying new mediocrity. The downside, of course, is that i've developed a taste for good blades--so when i do need to really buy one new it hurts!!
earl

[Kevin Jenness]

Martin, at my last gig we had several hollow ground blades from Leitz that worked fairly well for veneered panels, though not as well as a high angle ATB. They came with a slider from a shop that used them for melamine, Since we rarely used that material I can't comment on that aspect. They were a triple chip design with every third tooth a trapezoidal shape and every tooth face concave which made for very sharp points. The downside was that they dulled fairly fast and we had to ship them back to Leitz for sharpening.

[Mark W Pugh]

For ripping, any of the 24T to 30T rippers from top brands should be fine....Infinity 010-024, Freud LM72 or LM74, CMT 201.024.10, Forrest 20T, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, etc....~ $45-$90. The lower the tooth count, the easier the cut...the higher the tooth count, the cleaner the cut as a general rule of thumb. Full kerf for 2hp+, 3/32" TK for smaller motors. If you have a 3hp+ saw, you could easily rip 1" with a good 40T blade....the Delta 35-7657 is the best bang for the buck going at ~ $30 shipped from Cripe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-35-7657-10-x-40T-Gen-Purpose-Carbide-Saw-Blade-/331802730339?rmvSB=true).

For sheetgoods with typical hobbyist volumes, I'd go for a 60T to 80T Hi-ATB grind. It'll have the lowest tearout of any grind, but will have the shortest edge life. A typical hobbyist should still get plenty of cuts between sharpenings....blades like this can last me a few years. Infinity 010-060 or 010-080, Freud LU80, CMT 210.080.10, Forrest WWI 60T or Duraline 80T or 70T Ply blade - ~ $65-$125.

Bargain Blades - 80T Oldham Pro (made in the US), precision 80T ATB - ~ $32 shipped from Cripe (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330499916721?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649&rmvSB=true)

You could always go with the inexpensive Irwin Marples or Freud Diablo series blade made in Italy. Both offer decent 24T, 40T, 50T, 60T and 80T options for ~ $30-$50 each.


Thanks for the input. When I get the time, I will look everything up. One other issue is a blade that you will have sharpened, or a blade you'll just buy again. Some wouldn't be worth sending to the local guy to sharpen. Does all that make sense?

[Jim Dwight]

A Freud LU84 will do everything you are talking about. It is a 50 tooth blade with 40 ATB and 10 flat top. It does everything pretty well. But my saw is a little BT3100 with a 15A universal motor. So for deep rips (it will cut 3.5 inches deep) I use a Freud LM72 with 24 flat top teeth. I prefer full width blades but have some of each. I think that think kerf work better for smaller motor saws is mostly a myth. I can rip 3.5 inches deep in hardwood with a full width ripping blade. But I can't cut 2 inches deep well with the LU84.

So for shallow rips and sheet goods, I would get a combination blade and specifically the LU84. But if you will ever need to do deep rips get a ripping blade too. I have others including all atb blades but I don't hardly use them.

The LU84 and LM72 can be sharpened. I have sent one of my LU84s to Ridge carbide and it came back better than new.

[Mark W Pugh]

A Freud LU84 will do everything you are talking about. It is a 50 tooth blade with 40 ATB and 10 flat top. It does everything pretty well. But my saw is a little BT3100 with a 15A universal motor. So for deep rips (it will cut 3.5 inches deep) I use a Freud LM72 with 24 flat top teeth. I prefer full width blades but have some of each. I think that think kerf work better for smaller motor saws is mostly a myth. I can rip 3.5 inches deep in hardwood with a full width ripping blade. But I can't cut 2 inches deep well with the LU84.

So for shallow rips and sheet goods, I would get a combination blade and specifically the LU84. But if you will ever need to do deep rips get a ripping blade too. I have others including all atb blades but I don't hardly use them.

The LU84 and LM72 can be sharpened. I have sent one of my LU84s to Ridge carbide and it came back better than new.

Thanks for the info. Slowly trying to make up my mind.

[Rich Riddle]

After owning most good brands, I use the Woodworker series from Freud. Infinity would be a solid second choice but they will send junk mail to you until eternity ends.

[Frederick Skelly]

Mark,

Good suggestions all around, but as always I recommend you simply call Carbide Processors and ask them. They have a large selection of top (pro quality) brands, very competitive prices, and excellent tech support.

- They don't even mind dealing with us lowly hobbyists. :o

+1 I haven't yet tried their blades but I HAVE done business with them and they are a first rate outfit with customer service as good as Lee Valley and LN. I'd definitely call and talk to them.

[Peter Kelly]

Anybody ever use a hollow tooth blade in a tablesaw for cutting sheet stock?I'd tried the Leuco ones on the panel saw long ago. Great when new but they don't stay sharp for very long. Those little points on the tips of the teeth wear off pretty quickly.

Wood Tech Tooling has 10" Stehle blades for not terribly expensive: http://www.woodtechtooling.com/Saw_Blades/StehleSawblades/stehlesawblades.html
Just need to call them for pricing.

I believe the unlabeled brand Charles Schmidt are Everlast blades are Everlast which are great.
http://www.cggschmidt.com/assets/pdf/Saw%20Blade%20Special.pdf

[scott spencer]

Thanks for the input. When I get the time, I will look everything up. One other issue is a blade that you will have sharpened, or a blade you'll just buy again. Some wouldn't be worth sending to the local guy to sharpen. Does all that make sense?

Any good quality blade is worth having sharpened IMO if there's ample carbide, but when a blade like the Delta 35-7657 (or other) is clearance priced for dirt cheap ($18 in this case), it can make more sense to buy one to two than to send it out for sharpening. Sending multiples helps justify s/h costs. If you have a local guy who's good, just drop them off. I don't bother to sharpen lousy blades....the carbide is still soft, the balance and tensioning is still poor, the brazing is still sloppy, the steel still sub-par, etc....being sharp for a brief period doesn't necessarily equate to a good cut if several other aspects of the blade aren't right.

[scott spencer]

... I think that thin kerf work better for smaller motor saws is mostly a myth. ....

It's physics, not myth. A 1/8" full kerf blade is 33%% wider than a comparable 3/32" thin kerf blade. Which you prefer is subjective, as there are pros and cons with each, but a comparable 3/32" is unquestionably easier for a motor to spin, and many benefits can stem from that aspect....lower resistance, longer motor life, etc. It's most noticeable with smaller motors in tougher cuts where the motor struggles more. If conditions are equal, the LU83 and LU87 should be easier for your motor to spin than the LU84 and LM72.

[Keith Hankins]

I've been using my Forrest blade (WWII) for years now and its a great choice for both needs. I do have a 20T rip blade but its only required for very thick stock (12/4) and above. That 40T WWII cuts and leaves a glue ready edge on all materials I've cut with it (wood). They will hold an edge for a long time and the amount of carbide on the teeth lends itself to several sharpenings.

Other brands are out there that are good, but after someone recommended them to me over 15 years ago, I've never looked back.

Good luck.

[Rick Johnston]

Cody, there may be a rpm limitation with the smaller blade.

[Don Jarvie]

I've been using my Forrest blade (WWII) for years now and its a great choice for both needs. I do have a 20T rip blade but its only required for very thick stock (12/4) and above. That 40T WWII cuts and leaves a glue ready edge on all materials I've cut with it (wood). They will hold an edge for a long time and the amount of carbide on the teeth lends itself to several sharpenings.

Other brands are out there that are good, but after someone recommended them to me over 15 years ago, I've never looked back.

Good luck.

+1. I have the Chopmaster in my RAS too.

[Jim Dwight]

There are many variables that influence how easily a TS blade cuts. It is overly simplistic to think that reducing the carbide tip width automatically means it will cut with less hp input. It does seem like it should work that way but I do not see the difference. One possible reason is the clearance of the carbide teeth to the steel part of the blade is typically less with the thin kerf. That can result in the steel dragging on the wood requiring more motor input to overcome.

Another factor that is often but not always a difference is tooth profile. Most thin kerf blades seem to be ATB grind. That is OK for cutting plywood and crosscutting solid wood but rips badly. Deep rips is where I need the most help for the blade.

Another factor is sawdust clearing. Rip blades have few teeth with deep gullets so they can clear the sawdust. If it doesn't get cleared, it also is then a drag on the motor. A thin kerf blade may have more difficulty clearing sawdust.

I'm not against anybody liking thin kerf blades. If you think they help your saw cut easier I am OK with that too. But I have several and I do not think they result in less drag on the motor. But they work OK and aren't a terrible choice. But it is extremely clear that using the right grind for your application makes a LOT more difference than the kerf width. A ripping blade (flat top teeth, no more than 30) will cut a lot easier than a thin ATB even if it has few teeth. I'm pretty sure one of my thin kerf blades is a flat top ripping blade. And it works. But not better than my full kerf ripping blade.

[scott spencer]

There are many variables indeed ....... "If conditions are equal (meaning all variables are the same), the LU83 and LU87 should be easier for your motor to spin than the LU84 and LM72."

33% wider is pretty significant key variable between full and thin kerf. Variables like quality, blade geometry, tooth count, correctness for the task, sharpness, gullet size, etc., are all very important to the overall equation, so they certainly shouldn't be overlooked, but it's hard to argue with the physics in play when all else is equal regarding width and subsequent resistance to the motor....it's not so different than how the width of a lawn mower works. The blades mentioned above are very similarly designed blades from the same manufacturer, which reduces about as many variables as possible except for the significant width difference. What we're able to detect is another variable.

[Cody Colston]

There are many variables indeed ....... "If conditions are equal (meaning all variables are the same), the LU83 and LU87 should be easier for your motor to spin than the LU84 and LM72."

33% wider is pretty significant key variable between full and thin kerf. These are very similarly designed blades from the same manufacturer, which reduces about as many variables as possible except for the significant width difference. What we're able to detect is another variable, but it's hard to argue with the physics in play.

Totally agree, Scott. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that removing 33% less stock makes it easier to spin. I recently picked up a Freud thin-kerf from the box store (all they had was thin-kerf) as I waited too long to send my WWII's for sharpening. I was really surprised at how easily it cut and that was on a 3 hp 10" saw.

[joe maday]

I have many blades from cheap freuds, oldhams deltas up to $200 luxite. The blades i use most are the 40 and 48 tooth blades from Ridge Carbide in NJ. They give good life between sharpenings and you deal with the owner/maker when contacting the company. Great service and decent turnaround. I usually keep a 40t 1/8 kerf blade on the machine (PM66 3hp) 95% of the time....thick, thin, crosscut or rip. i find the thin kerf blades do "flex" or "wander" in wide crosscuts.... The other manufacturers sit in the drawer. The cheaper blades are "throw aways" after 1-2 sharpenings.....not worth it in my opinion. I believe it is worth it to get a quality blade from a USA maker and keep sharpening and maintaining the blade with them. You build up a "re-pore" and if/when a problem arrises( broken tooth, bent shoulder) it gets the attention it deserves without a run-around.