Witherby 2" chisel

[rick carpenter]

Just showing off the Witherby 2" chisel I got yesterday.

336681

From the 1890 Winstead catalog (http://toolemera.com/catpdf/winsted1890CAT.pdf), it could be a Socket Firmer, a Socket Framing, or a Solid Silver Steel Socket Framing Chisel... with maybe a replacement handle. If the handle is original, it looks most like the Socket Firmer.

The logo is <T H WITHERBY> with the ITHERBY in small caps, apparently an early logo. The 2" width of the square-sided blade has 4-1/4" left on it with max thickness of a little over 1/4", the v-neck is 1", and the socket is 3". The handle has 6-1/2" sticking out of the socket but does not have the 'shoulder' at the socket that I've seen with pics of Witherbys. It had a little ~1/16" neck on the end (see the Corner Chisel's handle in the catalog) but since it was so worn down I reshaped the tip to rounded, and it has a section ~1-1/4" back from the tip that looked like it had a ferule. When I find the proper brass or bronze round stock, I'll add the bigger ferule.

It's shaving sharp now and will be used for slick-type work in construction.

[lowell holmes]

Rick, that is a fine chisel. I'm impressed with it.

You mentioned slick-type work in construction. Are you building log houses?

[rick carpenter]

I can't wait to need to use it! But no not for real slick work, I actually meant finishing out joints notched with a circ saw, recessing for hinges, that kind of stuff. Just kinda slick-type work in the sense of shaving them smooth. "Paring" might have been closer to what I should have said.

CORRECTION: "If the handle is original, it looks most like the Socket Framing Chisel."

[lowell holmes]

I have a 2" framing chisel as well. I had to re-handle it. It is extremely sharp. It's good for paring notches in beams.
I built a frame in the garden to hold lattice work. Believe it or not, I chopped mortises with the chisel for the joinery.

[Pat Barry]

Nice chisel and thanks for the research. I now know have a 7/8" Witherby socket firmer chisel, maybe from late 18th century thanks to your homework. The catalog describes it as a 6 inch blade but mine only has a tad under 5 inches left. Mine says T.H. WITHERBY and under that it say WARRANTED and all the text is inside an engraved rectangle.

[george wilson]

With that long handle,it could be a slick. Might be a bit small for a slick. I used to buy them at flea markets many years ago,though I ended up trading hem to the House Wrights as I had no need for a slick. Mine were usually about 3" wide,but had that long handle,which was used to smooth out work in ship building. Also,the top sides of slicks I have seen had a convex curve to them,or perhaps an angular top meeting in the center like a very low pup tent. I'm not certain this is a necessity to be called a slick though.

The long handle was so you could push the slick with the handle held against your chest or abdomen.

It's been so long by now that I can't be sure by now.

[Mel Fulks]

Some sources say that a slick must be at least 3 inches wide to qualify as a "slick". But I dismiss that as slick marketing.

[george wilson]

I have seen a Japanese slick that was 2" wide. I did a bit of Googling.

[Jim Ritter]

Of the several slicks that I have for boat work all have the socket tilted up so that even paring a wide surface the handle is always clear of the work.
just the other day I started to clean up a 2" chisel that I thought was a no name but at the end of the day I was stoning off some burrs on the side and then the top, at that point I saw just enough letters to confirm that it too is a Witherby. I'll take some pics later today.
Jim

[george wilson]

That's correct,Jim. I never used my slicks(why I bought them I have no idea!) they did tilt up. So,that may be a key way to identify a slick from a large framing chisel. That and the arched top surface. Assuming the original handle was gone.

[Brian Holcombe]

IIRC the typical combo of Japanese framing slicks is 24mm and 48mm, so approx 1" and 2"~.

[Jim Ritter]

Here's my 2" Witherby. Seems a bit different my socket is a bit shorter, the blade is shorter too but that could be sharpening. I'll have to check out the different types.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/image_zpsdc6izrad.jpeg

Jim

[rick carpenter]

Mine's definitely a chisel because the socket is 'inline' with the blade, not cranked up or offset like a slick. I'm getting more sure the handle isn't original as the end of the socket shows it was once mushroomed then hammered back somewhat smooth, making it look like it was struck several times when the original handle came off. Plus it looks like it once had a ferrule (two Rs) or hoop, unlike a slick's handle. If I can find adequate ferrule/hoop stock, I'll add one back.

One thing I noticed is that the sides of the "V" where the blade narrows down to the socket are not symmetrical. Jim Ritter, yours possibly looks a little asymmetrical too but I can't see it clearly.

[Jim Ritter]

I'll check when I get to the shop.
Jim

[Jerry Olexa]

i am full of envy...great chisel!!!

[Jim Ritter]

It's pretty symmetrical Rick, some minor differences is all. I guess what you see in the photo is camera/lens induced. I intend to put a long straight handle on it much like yours.
Jim