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View Full Version : Soapstone countertop fabrication?



Mike Berrevoets
04-28-2016, 10:18 PM
Has anyone here fabricated their own soapstone countertops? I have some stone on order but have a few questions.

What kind and brand of epoxy for joining the slabs?

How do I get silicone under the slabs to "fasten" it? some slabs are ok because they are a single slab but ones that get joined to others I can't really lift up after I join them to get the silicone underneath. Maybe I don't really need it? It will be heavy and pushed against the wall.

Any other tips?

Kevin Groenke
04-29-2016, 8:38 AM
I cut and installed soapstone in my kitchen a decade ago.

For epoxy I used System Three mixed with sandstone dust to color-match.

Silicone or const adhesives was applied on top of cabinets, then slab was brought in on 3/4 x 3/4 "risers". Lift the slab and slide the risers out and it seats onto the glue. I don't think you want to not glue as any dip/rise in cabinet elevation will lead to gaps and potential stress on the slab.

Be prepared for A LOT of dust from cutting/routing and more blades/bits than you think you'll need. Have help lined up to move the slabs. Sawhorses.

Rich Riddle
04-29-2016, 9:00 AM
I am going to watch this thread because we will be putting in new cabinets and counters at the farm. Soapstone represents a likely candidate for countertops. Hope to read what you like and how to install them.

Mike Berrevoets
04-29-2016, 12:29 PM
I cut and installed soapstone in my kitchen a decade ago.

For epoxy I used System Three mixed with sandstone dust to color-match.

Silicone or const adhesives was applied on top of cabinets, then slab was brought in on 3/4 x 3/4 "risers". Lift the slab and slide the risers out and it seats onto the glue. I don't think you want to not glue as any dip/rise in cabinet elevation will lead to gaps and potential stress on the slab.

Be prepared for A LOT of dust from cutting/routing and more blades/bits than you think you'll need. Have help lined up to move the slabs. Sawhorses.

thanks. My plan is to cut outside and stay upwind and wear a respirator. I've been cutting the maple countertops (island) on a piece of 2" foam board and was planning to do the same thing with the soapstone so it is fully supported for the cut.

I have some friends that "owe" me so I'll be cashing in some favors for the heavy lifting.

I was planning on using a diamond blade on the oldest circular saw I have and a straight edge clamped for a guide. I toyed with the idea of the festool track saw but I'm thinking that isn't wise.

My cabinets are all 3/4" plywood and have solid tops so I should have good support. My one piece that isn't supported is over the dishwasher for the 24" span. I was thinking I'd put a ledger board on the wall to give it some support. Didn't know if I had to do anything else.

Mike Berrevoets
04-29-2016, 12:37 PM
Rich - The soapstone I have on order is coming from Alberene in Virginia. I think they are one of the only places still getting soapstone out of the ground in the US. They have a DIY kitchen package that they ship out. They send slabs cut to width/depth and 4' lengths. Longer lengths would be nice as it would eliminate one more seam but I'm not sure I want to manhandle anything longer.

We'll see how it goes. I may regret the decision but the materials shipped to Michigan will cost me about $1500. Quotes to have it fabricated and installed was running three times that. I'll try almost anything once.

Rich Riddle
04-29-2016, 6:20 PM
Mike,

Do you mean they are charging you $1500 to ship to Michigan? That's steep. How much did you order?

Jim Becker
04-29-2016, 7:23 PM
I did not fabricate our soapstone kitchen counters myself, but I paid very careful attention to the stone contractor when they were doing in my driveway. For that reason, for a small additional surface and a future eating table, I'll be doing it myself.

My contractor, when they were doing the one joint at an "ell" section, had their epoxy prepared and ready after final joint fitting. They sink section was fastened down already with the silicone. The adjoining section was then lifted, silicone applied to the cabinet tops and then they injected the epoxy while sliding the piece over the last 1/8" or so. Once the epoxy was cured, they did some minor sanding to clean up the joint and make it "invisible".

BTW, they used a PC 7518 for edging and cutting the drainboard.

Rich Riddle
04-29-2016, 8:21 PM
Jim,

Are you indicating that one can route soapstone?

Mike Berrevoets
04-29-2016, 10:33 PM
Rich - The stone is about $1,200 and shipping is about $300. That gets six 4' long pieces that are 25.5" deep.

Rich Riddle
04-29-2016, 10:48 PM
I am trying to figure out why they cut it in such short lengths. Granite weighs a lot and you can get it in much longer lengths. Glad to hear it wasn't $1500 for shipping.

Mike Berrevoets
04-29-2016, 10:54 PM
Jim - Thanks for the description of how they made the joint. That's helpful.

Did they cut the material in your driveway with a circular saw? I'm wondering if I will get a clean enough straight edge off the saw.

Mike Berrevoets
04-29-2016, 11:15 PM
The 4' pieces weigh 175 pounds each so I'm not sure I want longer pieces. I have one space that is 49" long so they will cut a 50" long one for me to trim down. Maybe they would cut them longer but it may have something to do with trying to keep the shipping costs reasonable. i didn't ask for longer pieces because my layout works pretty well with the shorter pieces because of the placement of the range and farm sink.

Jim Becker
04-30-2016, 10:27 AM
Jim,

Are you indicating that one can route soapstone?
Yup...soapstone is "soft" enough that you can work it with woodworking tools and carbide tooling. That said, the dust isn't pleasant and it may even be worth buying an el-cheapo router from HF or something to do the one-time fabrication, rather than bugger up a good tool.

Jim Becker
04-30-2016, 10:31 AM
Jim - Thanks for the description of how they made the joint. That's helpful.

Did they cut the material in your driveway with a circular saw? I'm wondering if I will get a clean enough straight edge off the saw.
They did the final fabrication in the driveway on saw horses. They didn't want to do the sink cutout at the shop because with a "farmhouse" sink, there was only that ~3" piece behind the sink remaining after the cutout. To carry it in, they clamped several boards to the piece to keep it from snapping. They used a worm-drive saw plus hole saws and some files/rasps. They did the eased edge (1/8" roundover) after installation and with jigged-up dust collection on the router.

Mike Berrevoets
06-26-2016, 10:12 PM
Just an update in case anyone is interested or searches for this later.

saturday was the day. I had a friend come over to help out with the heavy lifting.

i used a diamond blade on my Milwaukee circular saw. Clamped down a straight edge and the stone cut surprisingly easy. Dusty for sure but I did it out in the driveway with a respirator on, a box fan blowing away and downwind and my buddy following with the vac.

I used west systems Six10 epoxy for the butt joints. Colored black with some universal tint.

The festool sanders and vac are very handy for final sanding and keeping the dust down in the kitchen. I think my wife may have finally realized the value of festool sanders. :)

still need to epoxy in the last two pieces and some final sanding and finishing to complete but overall I'd do it again right now.

the one item that caused me some fits is the slab thickness was not consistent. Some slabs were 1-1/16+ and others as thick as 1-3/16+. creative shimming gets the tops level but I can see the thickness variation in some spots. Around the apron sink in particular. I doubt anyone else will notice but it does bug me.

ill get some pictures up when the rest of it is finished.