Bypassing door interlocks on ULS laser

[Brian Lamb]

I had a 27" square piece today and wanted to engrave/cut half of it, then flip top to bottom and do the other half. Went to open the door on the laser and it has what appears to be some magnets mounted i the door that align with sensors in the chassis. Is there a quick and dirty way to bypass these? My panel sticks out about 5" but with the door open all the unit will do is turn on the red dot and go through the motions.

Pictures of the door and chassis showing the interlocks.

336501336502

[vic casware]

Hi Brian,
Looks about the same as my Epilog's, I place a magnet over the sensor on the machine, usually 2 sensors

[Tony Lenkic]

Brian,

As Vic said place a small magnets on each side over sensors for temporary bypass.
For frequent bypass you can unplug wires at sensors (my machine has the plugs at sensor) and use jumper wire to override.
I would also suggest to install a bypass key switch on side of cabinet if you will be requiring frequent need.

[Brian Lamb]

I tried magnets, but maybe mine were a bit too large and too potent. Leaving them or removing them yielded the same result, red dot laser with movement, but no firing of the "real" laser. I wondered about the wiring and just unplugging and jumping across, right side was/is easy access, can't seem to get the wiring loose on the left, will have to stick a mirror inside and see what's up. I work from a wheelchair, so getting my head in there to take a look isn't going to work.

I will do some more playing around and see what I can figure out. I assume these are Hall effect switches and need a magnetic field... but maybe not direct contact, i.e. no gap with the magnet just stuck on there.

[Bill George]

I tried magnets, but maybe mine were a bit too large and too potent. Leaving them or removing them yielded the same result, red dot laser with movement, but no firing of the "real" laser. I wondered about the wiring and just unplugging and jumping across, right side was/is easy access, can't seem to get the wiring loose on the left, will have to stick a mirror inside and see what's up. I work from a wheelchair, so getting my head in there to take a look isn't going to work.

I will do some more playing around and see what I can figure out. I assume these are Hall effect switches and need a magnetic field... but maybe not direct contact, i.e. no gap with the magnet just stuck on there.

I have some little 10 mm diameter magnets I use on my ULS they are very strong. Somewhere on the machine there is suppose to be a jack installed where a special jumper plug is used for service.

[Tony Lenkic]

I have some little 10 mm diameter magnets I use on my ULS they are very strong. Somewhere on the machine there is suppose to be a jack installed where a special jumper plug is used for service.

Bill,

ULS may have that jack hidden very well but it would be ultimate solution to have one. On Trotec machine Jack would prevent lid closure from what I can see.

[Brian Lamb]

As an update, I went out this morning fresh and took a couple magnets, realized that they have poles (not sure if it matters, but I was being methodical) and putting the poles that caused repulsion magnet to magnet, against the sensors and sliding them all the way to the top of the sensors, covering only about half the sensor ended up working.

I was able to leave the door open and engrave/cut the board that I needed. Did one half, flipped it and did the other half.

Which brings up another question... what do you do when the 0,0 position on your machine isn't really 0,0? I found I had to shift over X.03" and Y.04" to get my vertical and horizontal lines to line up with each other. I know I can re-zero my machine anywhere, but the factory "default" 0,0 position is the upper left corner of the scales. How would you adjust that to be dead on? Another part I do needs a ruler along one edge, don't want to have to mess around each time hitting exactly 0 in the x direction in this case.

[Tony Lenkic]

Brian,

I was told to loosen screws that hold rulers and move them as far as they can go, place masking tape on those spots.
Than in drawing program draw a line for 0°vertical and 0° horizontal. Send it to laser to cut the tape. After the cut leave inner part of the tape and remove extra at the top and left side.
Now you can move the rulers to touch the tape and screw them in. This should have your rulers aligned to drawing program.
Hope this helps

[Bill George]

On my older machine V460 you can go into setup and re-set the O,O zero location and have it stay as start up default. My guess that belts stretch a bit and maybe the machine got out of level. Or you can move the rulers a small amount. I choose to just reset my default origin. To do the default change you really need the manual for your machine with the instructions on how to do.

[Brian Lamb]

Tony,

That all makes sense as I'm not too far off, will have to see if I can shift the rulers that far.

Bill, I have the manual, and it details shifting the 0,0 position, and I've done that before on jobs where I couldn't get the fixture or part to the upper left corner. But, when I power down the machine, it always returns 0,0 to the upper left corner, and I don't see anything in the manual about keeping it there. I can call ULS tech support, they are local for me, and see if they can shed any light on it.

[Bill George]

Tony,

That all makes sense as I'm not too far off, will have to see if I can shift the rulers that far.

Bill, I have the manual, and it details shifting the 0,0 position, and I've done that before on jobs where I couldn't get the fixture or part to the upper left corner. But, when I power down the machine, it always returns 0,0 to the upper left corner, and I don't see anything in the manual about keeping it there. I can call ULS tech support, they are local for me, and see if they can shed any light on it.

There is a special menu you need to get into and do the setting. There is info on here someplace If you find doing a search and I will try to find in my V460 manual but my guess its not the same. I am wondering if other X600 owners could help?

Manuals online > pdfstream.manualsonline.com/.../9156b89a-d72f-4978-a073-f555325ec
Or [PDF]X-600 / X2-600 - you (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjs55X48bPMAhUBZyYKHeLSD4MQFggsMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpdfstream.manualsonline.com%2F9%2 F9156b89a-d72f-4978-a073-f555325ec2e4.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHlExQP2TEmCziGg5Sg3yzcoPThXw&sig2=aRhNtEXJtXAUSX6zJMl26Q)

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[Brian Lamb]

Hi Bill,

That is the same PDF file I have for my machine. It says it will change it permanently in the manual, but having done it plenty of times to catch the 0,0 corner of a part out in the middle of the field, I know for a fact it won't stay there if you power the machine down. It seems that when you power the machine back up, it resets the whole field based on the home switches. I will call ULS tech support and see if they can tell me anything.

[Bill George]

Ok and you are correct I just found the info I used.

[Brian Lamb]

And as another update to my question of re-calibrating my 0,0 position. I called ULS and the answer is to move the scales back, masking tape the table, cut through the tape with lines at X and Y 0 value, remove the outside area of the tape and move the rulers back to coincide with the cut lines.

Now, I'm sure that the machine could be set by the software from the home switch position as to how far over it would shift, but they weren't telling how to do that. Regardless, it's how they suggest to accomplish the calibration and I'll have to tackle that shortly.

[Bill George]

You may find as I did there is not enough movement in those mounting screws or holes. What I posted above came off the ULS website I am pretty sure. Lot easier than messing with those rulers.

[Brian Lamb]

I wondered about that too, guess I'll have to find out.

[Bill George]

Brian did you get it working?

[Brian Lamb]

In regards to re-zeroing? I haven't had a chance to do it yet.... had some other pressing work come up and haven't gotten back to making adjustments.