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steven c newman
04-27-2016, 9:25 PM
Now that the box for the Stanley 45 is "done".....trying to decide on the next item.

I also have a Wards (Stanley) No. 78 and a Stanley No. 39 3/8"

Maybe build a build to house them both? Or just a box for each?

The 78 would be the first one to get done, as I can always stash the 39 back into the tool chests....

Need to get the Single Brain Cell Sketch Up back on line.......without giving me a headache...:D

lowell holmes
04-28-2016, 9:15 AM
Now that the box for the Stanley 45 is "done".....trying to decide on the next item.

I also have a Wards (Stanley) No. 78 and a Stanley No. 39 3/8"

Maybe build a build to house them both? Or just a box for each?

The 78 would be the first one to get done, . . . . . .

I keep my 78 in a plastic shoe box from Target.

steven c newman
04-28-2016, 12:58 PM
Hmmm, well, that MIGHT work for your shop...

I think the 78 needs a little bit better home than a shoe box, and I think I can build a better box than some plastic container that used to hold footwear.

Going through my scrap pile now.......have some white oak? NOT with cast iron touching it. Poplar? maybe..... Not enough Cherry for the box....I do have some Black Walnut I could add to it.....a bit showy, though.
Might go to the Blue Borg later, as they sell thin "Project" boards, was where the Poplar for the 45 came from. Might see what they have, this time..

A plastic shoe box? Really????

Stew Denton
04-28-2016, 9:37 PM
Hi Steven,

Just a thought, and your boxes are nice, but have you thought about building one big box, like the Anarchists Tool Chest instead of smaller ones? I hope to do that some day. I know there are reason for going the individual box route, such as storage set up, being able to tote the tool to a job site without needing a truck and 4 guys to help move the thing, etc., but I was thinking that building one big tool chest might be less time consuming, and handier than several small ones.

By the way if you haven't read "The Anarchists Tool Chest" by Schwarz, it is a great read, and I am reading some of it for the 3rd time, maybe the 4th.

Anyway, please don't take the above as a criticism, and I am enjoying the pictures and notes about your projects, but I was just had the thought about a big tool chest, and wondered what your thoughts on it might be since you are building individual boxes instead?

Thanks and regards,

Stew

steven c newman
04-28-2016, 9:51 PM
Happen to have two such tool boxes in the shop..
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Tool chest No. 1.....and
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Tool chest No. 2

I found out that being in a basement shop, things tend to rust, sitting on the bottom of the chest. Working on sealing the bottoms a little better...

Of course, I could always stack these individual boxes inside the chests....

Stew Denton
04-28-2016, 10:25 PM
Steven,

Thanks for the reply. After I read it and looked at the pictures, I was thinking that a while back, someone had a post about making a box that looks a lot like the one in the bottom picture. Was that you?

By the way, nice job on the chests. I am likely moving to Oklahoma after retiring, (SWMBO wants to move there), and the humidity is much worse where we are going than it is in this dry climate here. Keeping things from rusting is something I will have to seriously consider.

Stew

steven c newman
04-29-2016, 12:03 AM
The second chest started out in life as a bed frame I found sitting out on the curb. Recycled most of the parts into that chest. Yep, that was me....

lowell holmes
04-29-2016, 10:02 AM
Hmmm, well, that MIGHT work for your shop...

I think the 78 needs a little bit better home than a shoe box, and I think I can build a better box than some plastic container that used to hold footwear.

Going through my scrap pile now.......have some white oak? NOT with cast iron touching it. Poplar? maybe..... Not enough Cherry for the box....I do have some Black Walnut I could add to it.....a bit showy, though.
Might go to the Blue Borg later, as they sell thin "Project" boards, was where the Poplar for the 45 came from. Might see what they have, this time..

A plastic shoe box? Really????

Well, it is protected in a soft enclosure, dust and moisture are kept out, and I can see what's in the shoe box. Besides that, I have two Lee Valley Skew Rabbet Planes.

After all, it is an orphan you know.:)

James Pallas
04-29-2016, 12:56 PM
Steven you build the coolest things. Find a need build it and move on. The tool chests are nice. It looks as if that 78 might fit in the corner of box #2.
Jim

steven c newman
04-29-2016, 2:11 PM
There was a sliding tray that held it...and the 39....would prefer the 78 out where I can access it faster....

Lowell: I do take in orphans in my shop....;)

steven c newman
04-30-2016, 1:22 PM
Back from Lowes on a cold and rainy afternoon. Now have some 3/8" x 5-1/2" Clear Pine boards, one is 24" long the other is 36" long. Should be able to make a box out of that amount of "timber"?? Amounts to four sides, and at least one top panel. We'll see IF there is enough for the bottom panel as well. Single Brain Cell Sketch Up is working on a cut list now. Letting the boards dry out a bit, before I start in.

Maybe redo the one tool chest, to hold the boxes being made. Maybe some "runners" to slide them around in the chest? Maybe get a bag of Desicant packets for the local drugstrore, and throw a few inside the chests?

steven c newman
04-30-2016, 5:27 PM
Handsaw to cut things to length
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No, it is not a D-23. The etch says Craftsman/ special saw. Decent crosscut saw, though..
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A Millers Falls No.56B to clean up the ends..
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There is two sides, and two end pieces. After I'd figured out just how much room those two planes needed.
Corner joints? Maybe a repeat of the last one?
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Used a chisel to layout the spacing, a marking gauge for the depth, and a small square to bring the lines round.

Currently on a short break, then a bit of saw work can be done......Not sure how tall this box will wind up...still figuring things a bit. And, nothing on paper, either.

Stew Denton
04-30-2016, 5:57 PM
Hi Steven,

The desiccant packets won't have the capacity to help for very long. Wish they did, but they don't. I think the keys are keeping the tools clean and free of sawdust, and coating the tools with an oil, or wax, or some other material to protect the metal. I know some guys use some sort of mild heating to keep the tools inside a tool cabinet a little warmer than the air outside of the cabinet.

Stew

Stew

steven c newman
04-30-2016, 11:31 PM
About need a Dehumidifier for the whole basement...

Got enough done tonight, I could mock up the box..
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And was able to sit the planes inside, to see how they would fit..
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Still need to split off the top. Need to work on the bottom, maybe two levels, one for each plane, and a place for the 78's parts.

More finger joints, maybe IF I do enough of them...I might get good ones?

David Eisenhauer
05-01-2016, 10:36 AM
This is causing guilt feelings I don't need. My 45 and 78 both live sitting nakedly on a bench shelf. The 45 cutters are in a couple of the old OEM cutter boxes, but the planes themselves are not boxed. And I have always liked finger joints since seeing the old wooden, finger-jointed .22 ammo boxes my grandfather had at his farm house when I was very young. The list seems to always grow faster at the bottom than it gets scratched off at the top.

steven c newman
05-01-2016, 11:47 AM
Thinking about adding storage in the lid for the wooden shoulder plane I have...
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Maybe do a fitted cavity in the lid, with a keeper or two? Have a decent 3/4" thick panel I can insert into the lid....

steven c newman
05-02-2016, 2:41 AM
Due to all the rain lately, there is a creek of sorts going across the Dungeon Shop's floor.....life in a basement. Waiting on things to dry out a bit before anything else gets done...

steven c newman
05-02-2016, 10:19 AM
Also, due to issues with leg cramps keeping me from using stairs, might be a day or two before this saga continues. Need to sell off a pile of spare parts, so I can buy some "missing" parts for the No.45.....including a new spur and it's bolt. Old bolt is rusted in place, will use the Easy-out as the last resort, AFTER I have the new parts in hand.

Jim Koepke
05-02-2016, 12:47 PM
Old bolt is rusted in place, will use the Easy-out as the last resort, AFTER I have the new parts in hand.

If you have a good drill press, you might want to try drilling it out from the back side. Often the heat generated by the drilling will break the screw loose. I have some left handed bits for this purpose. Drilling from the back side might drive the screw out with the drill bit.

jtk

steven c newman
05-02-2016, 3:15 PM
I have the Easy-out onhand. Awaiting the arrival of the replacements. Maybe after a few things sell of FleaBay....

Meandered down to try to get something done on the box.....resized the bottom panel. It is a glue up....Monday being what is is, I fought the clamps for quite awhile, even threw one across the shop.. finally, to stop some of the panels hijinks with flying up out of the clamps..
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THAT should put a stop to that sort of thing. Made a mess on my clean floor, too!
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Well, all of them had to come from...somewhere.
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Ah yes, rebate cutting to house the bottom panel...whenever it deigns to come out of the clamps. Hopefully, I can use those clamps an quite a few more, to glue up the four sides. Then I can saw off the lid, and install the topper?
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The line is where I have to remove a bit. in order that this thing will settle in up to the wedge/iron level, then I can add a keeper or two.
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That way, when I open the lid, to get a plane out, this will be out of the way of the other two on the bottom of the box. Wonder IF I'll need to add handle to lift this thing?

Having a beer, waiting on glue to cure....

steven c newman
05-02-2016, 10:36 PM
Ok, the board the plane rests on is about 3/4" thick, give a shaving or two. I need to go down about 3/8" deep, in order that the plane will nestle with the wedge/iron flat on the surface. Right side will get closed up, when the lid's sides are attached. Might be a pain, but without plugging in the router, not much choice but to hog it out with a few chisels...maybe use a backsaw on the ends to start with? There is a radius to match the plane's corners. removing the iron/wedge is not an option, still need to sink the plane down into the board, as space below it in the box will be a bit tight.

You might hear a "Blue Streak" coming from Ohio other the next day or two.....enough that R. Lee Ermy will blush...might be FUN??

steven c newman
05-03-2016, 12:30 PM
Surprize! No really bad cussing went on this morning. Took that panel out of the clamps and planed the glue lines...
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Stanley #4 T-13. Used a bit bigger plane to joint the edges
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Millers Falls No.11, T-2. At least to get all four ends straight and square. Set the four sides of the box into a test fit, with one clamp
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Test fit the panel....was a bit too long and too wide...sawed off the what I thought was the right amount, placed the panel in place..
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Hmmm, while it does fit, note the finger joint? Decided to go ahead and just glue up the sides,and then fit the bottom panel a bit better
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About used all my clamps up. Of course, the only area to do this sort of thing, was right over the vises. Had to use a Crochet and clamp, to plane the panel to fit
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Kind of cramped down here. Finally got the bottom panel to fit. Slipped it in under the clamps, used a few 3/4" long nails (no glue) to fasten the bottom in place
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And just let it sit for a while, Lunchtime, anyway. Let it cure from the afternoon, as the Boss needs something done in the backyard. A Storage shed/tent needs built. Then we can hide some bikes, the mower, and anything else she wants to.


Might get to go to the shop later today, I hope.

steven c newman
05-03-2016, 3:44 PM
Gingerly took the box out of the clamps, nothing flew apart. Turned the box over, so it sits right side up. Test fitted the two planes that will go into the bottomof this box
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Everything fits. Now, since that area around the vises is clear, time to cut a stopped rebate, or is it a double stopped rebate?
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Two Forstner bit koles, drill to the depth I needed
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Chiseles my way back away a bit. Back wall was cut with the chisel. Made a knife line, and a knife wall, along the two sides. Backsawn to depth. More chisel work, to hog out the rest, getting chips all over my clean floor.
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Finally got the "floor" almost flat in the recess. Brought out the longest paring chisel I have. I don't have a #71 router plane, so this will just have to do
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Then a test fit of the plane that will set in here ( this is the underside of the lid we are working on)
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Then some bandsaw work to cut two keepers out of walnut scraps I had on had
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There is a counter-bored hole in each, to hold a screw. Since the "open" side will be right against the side of the lid, these will need to rotate
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So I can get the plane out when I need it.

Letting the glue cure a while longer, before I saw the lid part off the bottom half. Maybe tomorrow,I might be ready to add some hinges?

steven c newman
05-04-2016, 11:44 AM
Will try to split off the top today. Might just saw it. Not sure IF it would fit through the bandsaw, might just handsaw saw it. Need to build keepers to keep the bottom two planes from banging around in there, in case someone want to "shake the box".

Maybe after Lunch....

steven c newman
05-04-2016, 2:37 PM
This is about complete, I think...
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Even got a coat of the "Brew" applied..
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First coat, anyway. Will go back later, and work with a second coat.
Need to find a latch for the front, as well.

steven c newman
05-04-2016, 6:38 PM
Needs a latch. I went back down to the shop, gave the Brew a wipe down. The "gap" showing on the left end, has been fixed. Block plane to level the high side down to match.

Thinking this could use a label, as well as the 45 did. Stanley made that #78 for wards. Stanley also made that #39. I seem to recall that Stanley also bought out Ohio Tool Co.?? Maybe a "Stanley Tools" label on the lid?

steven c newman
05-05-2016, 2:23 PM
Printer and I are not on speaking terms right now. maybe pick up a thin brass sheet. I have a Dremel, and a few engraving bit for it. Might make my own metal label?

Coat of Poly Gloss is now drying on the box. Did not do the inside, though.

The box, with the planes, weighs a "ton". I might also get a few brass corner items. Just plain ones, no need to get too fancy..

steven c newman
05-05-2016, 9:28 PM
Ok, I'll post a few photos of the finished box....time to start the next project, anyway.
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We now have a latch
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Smallest screws I had, and they were phillips. Hey, they came with the hinges..
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One end had the be block planed down a bit, to close the gap on the other end.
Now has one coat of Poly Gloss, rubbed out with 0000 steel wool.
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Might get a chain or a bracket, to hold the lid like this.

Fun little, simple project to do.

Next on the "to-do" list?
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I am supposed to be building a rocker, and this will be a pattern to use. Too, danged cheap to spend the $68+tax...so I'll just build one. It will keep me out of the taverns, at any rate..

steven c newman
05-08-2016, 10:45 AM
Got two rear leg blanks resawn, from a Pine 4x4x4' blank.
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The task at hand is to turn those almost square blanks into round ones. @ 48" long, they are about a foot longer than my lathe can handle. So, now it will be a matter of drawknife and spokehave. Might prove fun...

steven c newman
05-08-2016, 4:31 PM
Well, ran a spokeshave for awhile, and these two things for awhile
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Until I had ONE leg about done
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One down, one to go. At least the front two legs will fit in my lathe.
Eyeballed to get things round..
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Almost there...

Frederick Skelly
05-08-2016, 6:27 PM
Thanks Steven. Your builds are always fun to watch!
Fred

steven c newman
05-09-2016, 9:44 PM
Got most of the second long post rounded, except for that last foot or so. I ran out of "gas" for today. Besides, there is a BIG,old knot in the way....

Maybe try more tomorrow? I need to go out and take a few more measurements. Like how long are the two front posts? May use the lathe, may just drawknife them round.

Need to start to figure out the rest of the rocker. The pattern uses dowels.....the white one beside it uses 1x1s........maybe something else for mine? Underneath the slats for the seat, maybe a bit bigger cross-section that a 1/2" x 2"?

Have yet to make a mark on a piece of paper......so far I am working things out in my head. Don't like screws into end grain.......M&T with wedges and pins might be better? The two slats for the seat's back...top and bottom ones...pattern shows as a flat 4/4 x 6".......maybe add a slight curve to them?

Starting to feel like a Holbrooke build post? IF you people want, I could start a second thread, mainly on the rocker build?

BTW, picked up some brass corner pieces for the new 3 plane box. They are attached with some of the smallest screws I've ever seen.......need the magnifier to install screws....

Pat Barry
05-10-2016, 9:20 AM
You are using Pine? Not to be a doubting Thomas / backseat driver, but I don't think that is a good material choice for the legs or the back and certainly not for the rockers. Seems to me that you should select a hardwood for this project.

steven c newman
05-10-2016, 12:20 PM
The one I'm currently sitting in IS pine. Painted, of course.

The wood is also reclaimed wood. Adds a little more character, that way.

Pat Barry
05-10-2016, 1:11 PM
The one I'm currently sitting in IS pine. Painted, of course.

The wood is also reclaimed wood. Adds a little more character, that way.
Must not be BORG pine. LOL Maybe reclaimed old growth heart pine?

steven c newman
05-10-2016, 1:54 PM
Bought the pine 2 yrs ago, at Menards. Have let them season outside ( Gazebo frame) until a big wind storm took things apart. Let them season a while longer. have cut out the "bad" sections as best as I can. Posts so far have that Hand hewn look to them. I seem to like it that way. Now have both long and one short post done. Also a few other parts have been milled up, in the rough. letting those sit awhile, as well.

steven c newman
05-10-2016, 2:49 PM
Long posts are now done, and will get set aside for a while...
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Let them season a bit. Dug through the stash a bit, found one 4x4 without too many knots. Cut it to length (~ 24" or so..) then resawed two post blanks out...
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This time, since these are a lot shorter..
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May not be a shave horse, but it will have to do..
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Kept rotating it around, until I was close to round, bit of a CardioWorkout for me. Sanding belt to smooth some of the rougher spots...
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all of this mess, to produce one post?
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That's enough drawknife work for today. i'll do the other one tomorrow.
I made a seat support rail..
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Will cut it to final length later. Need two more just like it. I also roughed out the crest rail.....and will let it sit.
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Will need to cut this to length, and cut some tenons. Using through tenons with pins, and maybe I'll use wedges as well.

have a road trip to do after a bit. I can let these just sit for awhile, no real rush for completion....

steven c newman
05-11-2016, 7:06 PM
was in Menards the other day....got brass corners for the 3 Plane Box. I also spent a bit on a 5/4 x 4 x8' pine board. Flat sawn, tight grain. Not a knot to be found. Laid out for one of the rockers that will go under the chair. Bandsaw to cut out. Not quite a full curve, should have bought the 6" wide one. Was able to adjust to cuts a bit. There is now a return curve at the "back" that usually was made so you couldn't tip back too far. Might get a few other items cut, then start on a few dry fits. maybe by this weekend......moving at the speed of smell right now......

steven c newman
05-11-2016, 10:25 PM
Ok, here is that recurve thingy..
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It is suppose to prevent you from over-rocking to the rear. Beltsander helped, where the spokeshave didn't want to work. Both of these are now done..
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And, we have a pile on the floor, again...
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Must mean that the HMS Pegleg is ready to launch
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Well, almost...I flipped this thing around a few times, until this showed up..
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Whole lot of sanding going on, as well. Both front posts are now done. I THINK that should do it for all the rounding work. Cardio Workout for the day is done, too...whew.

steven c newman
05-12-2016, 6:55 PM
Not much got done on this today. Maybe tomorrow, I can start measuring a few things, and start a cut list sort of thing.

Bottom ends of the front post will get slotted to go around the rockers. A bit of shaping to round the end, and a pin or two all the way through.

Top of the front posts will get a tenon, to go through the arm rests. Then a wedge or two.

Back posts will also get the slot at the bottom. and the rounding, and a pin or two. All other connection to the back posts will be Mortise & Tenon joints.

The way that backsaw likes to cut......slightly curved seat and back slats should not be much trouble to do. Back slats get M&T joints. Seat slats.....we'll see.

Not much of a carver, crest rail will just be a plain affair.

steven c newman
05-16-2016, 8:31 PM
Got the corners done. Might start a new thread, once I get back to working on the rocker.

This thread is getting a bit long, anyway.

First off, need to get that No.358 mitre box OFF my work bench...
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Not a whole lot of room left to work.....thanks to this $15 saw thingy...

steven c newman
05-17-2016, 10:32 PM
bench has been cleared off. I have started a new thread about that rocking chair build.