Coffee Ground Filler

[Edward Weingarden]

I plan on using some used, dried out coffee grinds to fill a crack in a piece. Is there a "usual" to make a mix? Does one use CA, or PVA, or epoxy, or something different? Thanks.

[Michael Mills]

I've used it with CA but never "pre" mixed. I put a little CA in, then some grounds and tamp the grounds with a popsicle stick, more CA, more grounds.....until the crack/void is filled.

[Matt Schrum]

I've mixed coffee grounds and Titebond in a small cup, then used that mix to fill voids. It has a thicker consistency at that point and it pretty easy to putty in. Overfill your crack, then once it is dried either sand or turn off the excess.

I have not tried any other methods to compare it to though.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

used coffee grounds are best.

take them out of the filter, put on a cookie sheet and dry them in the oven before using.

[Jim Sevey]

I use 2 part epoxy. Overfill and turn off the excess. I have used 5 minute epoxy but I think 30 minute is supposed to be stronger. Never had a problem with it.

[John Keeton]

Like Matt, I use Titebond and premix using as little glue as possible to get a workable mix. Then, "tamp" it in with a small dowel or other object appropriate to the void. Dries pretty quickly and easier to fool with than CA or epoxy.

[Edward Weingarden]

Thanks for the feedback.

[robert baccus]

I would avoid the CA for a filler--it dries to something like granite and makes a hump when sanding. Epoxy is fine and probably titebond?

[William Bachtel]

I use epoxy, on coffee, charcoal, or artist paints. 5 minute.

[Wes Ramsey]

I've always tamped then flooded with thin CA, but have never been a fan of the process. If you over-flood the CA it flows downhill and leaves streaks in the wood that have to be sanded off. This is easier if you have a coat of wax or finish on the piece, but things don't always happen in that order. I might have to try mixing and tamping. For the titebond method, do y'all use the medium or think?

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

if you're using CA, it's wise to use wipe on a bit of de-waxed shellac on the surrounding area so the CA won't soak into the wood and streak the wood.

[Matt Schrum]

..... For the titebond method, do y'all use the medium or think?

I use the Titebond II-- nothing special. I don't measure out the glue to coffee grounds ratio at all, but you can adjust it to however thick or wet that you want. The dark grounds hide the slight yellow/amber color of the dried glue and it turns out looking pretty good.

[Wes Ramsey]

I use the Titebond II-- nothing special. I don't measure out the glue to coffee grounds ratio at all, but you can adjust it to however thick or wet that you want. The dark grounds hide the slight yellow/amber color of the dried glue and it turns out looking pretty good.

Yes, when I wrote that I was thinking Star Bond CA glue, not Titebond wood glue. Makes more sense now.

[Edward Weingarden]

I used some white PVA glue since that's what I had in the shop. I like the results. Easy to sand and didn't collect any sanding dust.

[John Sincerbeaux]

Why coffee grounds? I've never heard of filling voids with coffe grounds till I got into wood turning. So I a few months ago I tried it mixed with epoxy. Result... Clear epoxy with coffee grounds floating in the epoxy? Can't say I get it? I use epoxy with a drop or two of walnut Trans Tint.

[David DeCristoforo]

Why coffee grounds? I've never heard of filling voids with coffe grounds till I got into wood turning. So I a few months ago I tried it mixed with epoxy. Result... Clear epoxy with coffee grounds floating in the epoxy? Can't say I get it? I use epoxy with a drop or two of walnut Trans Tint.

Have to agree. I've always used a bit of glue (titebond works just fine) and a bit of fine sanding dust from whatever wood I'm using. Blends well and does not resist finish like epoxy can.