Do I need another blade for my SS PCS?

[Guy Dotan]

I recently purchased a SS PCS 3HP for my newly built shop. I am what you might call an advanced beginner :-)

For my next project I will need to veneer some plywood panels and then cut the edges at 45 degree to create a box (30w 20d 7h) with mitered joints. I only have the combination blade that came with the saw. Do I need to purchase a different blande to get clean 45 deg cuts?

Thanks!
Guy.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I can't really answer your question directly since I never installed the blade that came with my SS. I just put my WWII blade on it from day one.

[Larry Frank]

I would buy a good plywood blade as it will cut without splinters.

Also, I have a good rip blade and cross cut blades. One day I will get the WWII blade but still think that a dedicated plywood blade is what you need.

[glenn bradley]

I also have my original unused SS blade on the wall as a decoration. You will get a variety of answers here. Some folks use a Forrest Woodworker II for everything and run them till they drop and then sharpen or buy another. Others prefer task specific blades. It will depend on how close to "finished" you want your cuts to be. Putting miters on veneered substrate is far from a general quality cut so I would advise a task specific blade.

I think anyone would benefit from a quality 40 or 50 tooth general purpose blade like the WWII or an equal. They do a fair job of ripping thinner stock and cross cutting to capacity. The cut quality is well within that required for oversize stock breakdown and can even provide finished cuts depending on material and condition of the blade in use.

If you will be ripping thicker stock you may want a 20, 24 or 30 tooth blade. For crosscutting I use a 60 tooth for most woods and an 80 tooth for troublesome materials. I have a 55 tooth blade for sheet goods but, for your 'final cut in veneered material' requirement an even higher number of teeth will give better results. Tooth geometry is just as important as tooth count.

Our own Tom Walz (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?9338-Tom-Walz) is president of Carbide Processors and can give you guidance for your specific needs. Infinity, Forrest and others also make task specific blades in that quality range. We here at SMC can tell you what we use and how things work for us in our shops and that is good info to get you pointed in the right direction. The folks who actually make the blades can really dial you in for your specific needs.

[Andy Giddings]

Really depends on the quality of cut in plywood that you get with your SS Combination blade. Try it out on some scrap ply of the same type you'll use. If it cuts without splintering then you're good to go. The mitered joints should not be an issue, just the degree of splintering

[Prashun Patel]

Which direction will the grain be running? Around the box or up and down?

I use a rip (30t) blade on my PCS, and I don't have issues with tearout on the top face. I tape the cut line when it's critical. Works fine.

[Rich Riddle]

You do need a full kerf plywood blade to make the cut because the saw manufacturer recommends against think kerf blades.

[Erik Loza]

+1 to what others have said but want to add that even if it's the ideal tooth setup for your application, you can see a world of difference between a dull blade and a sharp blade. Best of luck with it.

Erik

[glenn bradley]

You do need a full kerf plywood blade to make the cut because the saw manufacturer recommends against think kerf blades.


For clarity:

"Blades with kerfs much thinner than 3/32” should not be used because those blades might not be strong enough to withstand the force applied by the brake when it activates. As a result, those blades might deform and stop more slowly in the event of an accident, resulting in a more serious injury. Blades with kerfs much thicker than 3/16” are heavier than standard 1/8” kerf blades. Therefore, those blades should not be used because they may stop more slowly than standard blades in the event of an accident, resulting in a more serious injury."

[scott spencer]

....Do I need to purchase a different blande to get clean 45 deg cuts?

Thanks!
Guy.

You don't NEED to, but you should if you want to get the best performance from your new saw. If you'd wanted average, I'd guess you would have bought a lesser saw. Good quality separate task specific blades will give the best results within their intended scopes. Your saw is worthy of first rate blades IMO....Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, World's Best, etc.

Best bang for the buck - Delta 35-7657 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-35-7657-10-x-40T-Gen-Purpose-Carbide-Saw-Blade-/331802730339?) - $30 to your door. Made in the USA, generous C-4 carbide, high grade laser cut steel, full kerf, classic 40T ATB grind.

[Ben Rivel]

Like everyone else has already said you probably dont "need" to, but you will appreciate it greatly if you do. Start with a good combo blade like a Forrest Woodworker II 40T and youll figure out as time goes on what more specific tasked blades youll need. Maybe a nice dado stack? I recommend the Forrest Dado King.

[johnny means]

A cabinet saw without a decent quiver of blades is like a computer with no software. Plenty of power, no functionality. Can't cruise the internet in BIOS.

[Ben Rivel]

A cabinet saw without a decent quiver of blades is like a computer with no software. Plenty of power, no functionality. Can't cruise the internet in BIOS.
Exactly. :)

[Guy Dotan]

Thank you all! I decided to purchase an all purpose blade first. Does anybody have good experience with Freud Fusion?
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNTG76/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000223VQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=09WM1JRP668XJH2BSXTD)

[Jon Nuckles]

I have used and liked Freud's top of the line blades. One thing I learned when I bought my Sawstop, though: the Freud blades are a "metric equivalent" of 10" and a little under a true 10". Short term, that just means that switching blades or between blade and dado set can require the extra step of adjusting the clearance between the blade and brake. Long term, I may get fewer sharpenings out of my Freud blade before it becomes too small to work with my Sawstop. Time will tell.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

My usual advice is..... Do a test cut and see. With the grain, you are probably fine. I have a Forest 40 and a Forest 48 WWII. Neither makes great cut in plywood cross grain. Now their plywood blade, that is a different story. If you tape the face down side, that might help. By might, I mean that I expect it to. Usually, however, if I cam cutting without using the plywood blade, the edge will likely be hidden; for example, as a drawer bottom.

[scott spencer]

Thank you all! I decided to purchase an all purpose blade first. Does anybody have good experience with Freud Fusion?
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNTG76/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0000223VQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=09WM1JRP668XJH2BSXTD)

It's a top performing all purpose blade, but they all have limitations by design. The tight side clearances and dual side grind give it very polished edges, but also make it more prone to burning in thicker ripping, and is especially sensitive to alignment and blade height. The Hi-ATB grind will give less tear out on ply and crosscuts, but those sharp points will also abrade slightly faster than a lower bevel....keep it clean, and it should serve you well. An 18T-24T bulk ripper would be a good 2nd blade if you rip a lot of thick dense material.