PDA

View Full Version : Woodworker II question



Ron Jones near Indy
06-12-2003, 11:23 PM
My Rockler friends (?) recommended a thin kerf blade over the standard kerf because it requires less power. I'm going to use it on a 3 hp cabinet saw. I don't think power is a consideration in this case. It seems they had only the thin kerf in stock. I thought the extra thickness might give more stability. Should I return the thin kerf or use it and not worry about it?:confused:

Brad Hammond
06-12-2003, 11:42 PM
I have a standard kerf on my WW2 on a 3hp cabinet saw and i couldnt be happier. It's never let me down and never growned for lack of power.
True.... the thicker kerf will be a bit more stable.
cya
brad

Lars Thomas
06-12-2003, 11:48 PM
I would definetly return it. You don't have a power issue. Lars

John Lucas
06-12-2003, 11:51 PM
I have exactly the same saw setup and I use thin kerf rup blade from CMT and full kerf cabinet blade, also CMT. I have three woodworkerII blades and they are fine, maybe overrated.
I prefer the thin kerf rip because there is less friction and drag when resawing thick chunks. I handle stabilization concerns by using one blade stabilizer by Forrest,

Kirk (KC) Constable
06-13-2003, 8:06 AM
Hey Ron. I always ran full-kerf blades on my Delta 34-670 (step below contractor and maybe a step above benchtop)...and I assure you it wasn't very powerful!

KC

Mike Schwing
06-13-2003, 8:25 AM
I use the WWII thin kerf on a 3hp cabinet saw. No problems whatsoever and I waste less wood to boot. The reason I have the thin kerf though has nothing to do with that - it was moved over from my previous benchtop saw which benefitted from the smaller kerf. Had I started from scratch I'd have the standard kerf - easier to calculate 1/8" into my cutting equations than 3/32", for one thing.

Ken Salisbury
06-13-2003, 11:28 AM
I have been using WW II full kerf blades on my TS for over 10 years. Wouldn't use anything else. You do not have a power problem and I would suggest the full kerf version.

Like I have said so many times before that is probably is getting boring --- but I will say it again:

<p align="center">
<IMG src="http://www.kenswoodcentral.com/forrest1.gif">

David LaRue
06-13-2003, 12:02 PM
I like full kerf blades better than thin kerf blades, and I have a mix of different blades See my website (http://home.attbi.com/~mywoodshop/html/blades.html)
From a setup perspective, it is a lot easier going from one blade to another if they all all the same kerf thickness. That way your zero clearance plates are the same, and you don't have readjust your fence for the different blades. I too use the Forrest stabilizer on all my blades and it does help. If I were to do over again, I would select all full kerf (I have a 3hp cabinet) in a rip, crosscut, and fine. And probably from the same manufacturer. my .02

Dave

Perry Schmidt
06-13-2003, 12:03 PM
I had the same 'decision' to make in the last year, and went w/ the full kerf. It's more stable - I use a thin kerf (not WWII) on my smaller saw and the stability difference is definitely noticable.

But more important to me is you can't use the Biesemeyer removable splitter w/ the thin kerf. That feature is better than the blade IMHO. I love that splitter - easy to install/remove, works like a champ, so it actually GETS used, while my 'factory guard/splitter' on my benchtop saw never gets used b/c it's such a pain to add/remove. I've heard a couple people have tried - works for some, doesn't for others.

If you plan on upgrading to a removable splitter at any time, and want to the Biesemeyer as an option (vs. the Merlin - I think that will work w/ a thin kerf) then you really need the full kerf.

Perry

Jim Becker
06-13-2003, 12:10 PM
There is no reason to use a thin-kerf blade on your saw whatsoever, unless you have a special need for the thinner kerf, itself. In fact, there is no need to use them on a contractors' style saw in most cases, especially with a high quality blade like the Forrest.

Jerry Krakauer
06-13-2003, 1:26 PM
Ron, you got it right "My Rockler friends (?)"
I have 1hp Craftsmen underpowered TS. Yes I need a thin kerf for most of the hardwood I cut. I use a damper/stiffener on the blade but still get "a little wondering (drift) of the cut sometimes. If I had a 3HP saw there would be NO reason to go to a thin kerf blade! YES the extra thickness WILL give the blade more stability. Return the blade and request to speak to the manager about this issue! -Jerry