How bad of a mistake is this, and can it be fixed?

[Dave Anthony]

I'm building a coffee table from plans in FWW, it's supposed to look like this:

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When I cut the curve in the bottom of the side panels I only left 5/8" under the through mortise:

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The through mortise is 3/4" x 4", the dado is 1/4" deep x 3/4" x 13". I think I can live with the look (I'm a hobbyist and this is for myself), but if it's a structural issue I'll need to remake the pieces. Forces would seem to be the weight of the shelf and resistance to torquing by the corbels. Options would seem to be:

1. Remake the panels.
2. Don't worry about it, structurally it should be fine.
3..Some cleaver fix.

[john lawson]

If you are careful and cut a tenon that fits precisely but does not stress the 5/8" cross section too much you should be fine. I would not depend on pounding the joint together when making the final assembly and glue up.

The other question that most woodworkers have to consider is can you live with the finished product knowing you made a mistake. To many folks it's just a design change, others would go out into the driveway and conduct a funeral pyre with a gallon of gasoline.

Any decision you make will be the right one. :)

[larry senen]

mill a curved piece an inch or two longer than the mortise and wider than the panel. put some detail on the ends and edges and glue it under the mortise. stronger and a little design detail

[Bruce Page]

As long as everything fits together without strain, I wouldn’t worry about it at all. How much meat is in the FWW plan?
It is a nice looking table.

[John TenEyck]

The weight of the shelf and whatever is on it is carried by the dado the shelf fits into. As said, just make sure the tenon slips through the mortise w/o straining it and all will be fine.

John

[Dave Anthony]

As long as everything fits together without strain, I wouldn’t worry about it at all. How much meat is in the FWW plan?
It is a nice looking table. Plans call for 1 1/8".

[Al Weber]

For #3 you meant to chop it up? I know what you meant (I think).

[mike holden]

I would vote #2, unless you have a large animal/human who might crawl onto lower level (grin)
I think it would be fine for magazines or a small collection of "coffee table" books.
YMMV

Mike

[Dave Anthony]

For #3 you meant to chop it up? I know what you meant (I think). Is a cleaver not an appropriate tool? I realize it might not be the most efficient, but I think it might help relieve my frustration over making such a stupid mistake :)

[Mike Cutler]

Dave

That design is an adaption of the Limbert Turtle Back Library table. I used it as the design for the center island trestle in our kitchen.
I agree with leaving as is and ensuring that it isn't stressed when the stretcher tenon goes through it. Remember also that Limbert did use metals in his design, so if you were really worried about it, you could have a brass plate/escutcheon/Tsuba made as a decorative, and structural element.
The stretcher mortise ends on our kitchen island, while passing thorough that tenon,sre actually supported by an "L" bracket hidden inside. and under. the stretcher shelf.
You're really going to like that when you're done, I promise! ;)

[Pat Barry]

If you are concerned I think you could glue on a 'sister' on the inside of each panel where they will be concealed by the shelf. That will increase the strength significantly.Make the added piece significantly longer than the mortise.

[Dave Anthony]

Thanks everyone. Based on your feedback I decided to proceed and milled the first part of the bottom shelf. It seems to be sturdy enough even without the rest of the shelf. This is where I am so far:

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[Frederick Skelly]

You can probably get away with it as is, if you follow the advice others have already mentioned.

If you're still concerned, reinforce the 5/8" part, either the way Senon suggests in post #3.

Another option is to attach 5/8" cleat on the back side of the mortise, that's an inch or two longer than the mortise. Campher the ends and attach it below the shelf so it looks like it was put there on purpose as a brace for the shelf. Think about wood movement, etc when you decide how to attach it.

But honestly, you ought to be ok.
Fred

[Andrew Hughes]

You could also add a screw up thru the bottom into the side.One of those trim screws have small heads.
Good looking table nice work.

[Lee Schierer]

Flip the legs over and drill two clearance holes (3/8" dia) up through the 5/8" portion. Once the tenon (shelf) board is in place, drill two pilot holes up through the shelf board and install two # 8 x 2" 04 #`0 x 2" wood screws up though the holes and the shelf and into the leg assembly. The screws will take the weight of whatever gets placed on the shelf without stressing the 5/8" portion of the legs.

Only you and the 10,000 SMC members will know that you made a mistake. :rolleyes:

[Scott Cenicola]

Looks awesome! I promise I'll never tell.

[Sam Murdoch]

And so now you have a bunch of clever solutions that outweigh the need for a cleaver solution :D

Great project and nicely done, even considering your "mistake".

[Bill McNiel]

Woodworking is not about not making mistakes, its about making your mistakes look intentional. It'll be fine.

[Al Launier]

I believe you are good to go as is. However if this is going to remain on your mind, then I think Lee's concept is the simplest & would add a good deal of strength. What I would change though is use a wood screw that is #10 with the head of the screw buried in the c'bore, as Lee suggested, but take it one step further and that is to make a couple of plugs of the same material, glue into the c'bored holes with the grain orientaion aligned with the adjacent grain, then sand flush.