Sharpening tools

[jeff oldham]

I have been turning about a couple of years now and most of my tools are from amazon,, the hurricane brand and they are ok,,and i have a few carbide tools,, and i have the wolverine jig plus the robo hiipy platform jig but i noticed recently that i was getting alot of chatter when i was hollowing out a bowl or goblet,,,and i do the same sharpening process the same every time and it has always seemed to do the job good,,,i really want to learn with the conventional lathe tools and how to sharpen them,,and i watch you tube videos using the parting tool and it just seems to melt into the wood,,but the one i got(hurrican brand),,just cant seem to get a edge that sharp reguardless of what i do,,,and i do have the cbn wheels also,,any info would help im sure,,do i need better tools and what would you suggest,,thank you

[Barry McFadden]

I'm not a sharpening expert by any means....I was using a grinding wheel and the Wolverine jig as well and was not really happy with the results. I went to a sharpening seminar at Lee Valley and after that I switched to a belt system for sharpening. I use a 1" X 30" belt and , I think, get far better results. It was explained how the grinding wheel actually puts a concave surface on the bevel of the tool where the belt system keeps it flat as it should be to ride on the wood. I'm sure there will be a lot of people that will swear by the grinding wheel and that's fine but for me I much prefer the belt for sharpening.

[Bob Bouis]

Your tools are fine. There are a lot of variables in play besides sharpening -- the kind of wood you're cutting, your technique with the tool, how deep a cut you try to take, how much support you have for the surface you're cutting (big one for chatter on bowl rims and goblets; try finish cutting those surfaces before you thin out the material supporting them). Pay attention to all those things, and you'll get better cuts.

For the parting tool question in particular, however, you might do better by honing it with a fine (600+ grit) flat stone. But there are some woods it's just not going to slice through like it does soft maple or whatever the demonstrator is cutting.

[carl mesaros]

I'm also not a sharpening expert but have tried various sharpening methods including the Tormek knockoff Jet wet sharpening system, with mixed results.
I attend the Tennessee Wood Turning symposium each year and for three years watched demonstrations of the Robert Sorbey Pro edge sharpening system.
This year I swallowed hard and passed over the credit card and bought the system. I am more than satisfied. Finally I can sharpen all my turning tools perfectly and with a set up time that takes seconds. The machine comes with a 60 grit belt that I used to set the profile on all of my tools. I then put the final edge on each with a 120 grit belt. I ordered a 120 grit ceramic belt and that is all I use now.
Maybe not for everyone but for me I couldn't be happier.

[Doug Ladendorf]

If you haven't already joined a turning club find one in your area and get some time with a mentor. That will be the easiest way to evaluate issues with sharpening and chatter. Regarding the parting tool, be sure you have a kerf a bit wider than the tool for anything deeper than 1/2" or so. Raise the handle a bit for a clean entry cut, then your motion is to start a bit high and lower the tool as it cuts. Experiment a bit with this, but find a mentor who can see you turn and help with adjustments.

Doug

[Thom Sturgill]

While the grinder does create a hollow grind using an eight inch or larger wheel and grinding the heal back pretty much eliminate that as an issue. Chatter is typically too much overhang, too heavy a cut, and/or vibration at the tool rest. I had problems when I used a round tool rest that added 1/2" to the gap between the rest and the wood. Also stay near the center of the rest.

[Reed Gray]

Well, first the vibration and chattering problem, it can be many things. In addition to what Thom said, dull tools can add to the issue, how you mount it on the lathe can contribute (tenon or recess too small for the diameter and length of the piece), dull tools, how far the piece extends out from the headstock and chuck can add to it (like trying to turn a 10 inch long 4 inch diameter scoop), how much tool pressure you are using (the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it), and how you present the tool to the wood as in scrape and/or shearing cuts. The farther you hang out, the smaller you want the cutter to be. Thin walls will want to vibrate more than thicker ones. Your particular lathe might be undersized for the piece you are turning. More experience will help also, which is why we use mentors. 10,000 more times.....

For sharpening, I have never been able to understand any advantage to a flat bevel, with the possible exception being if you are working on flat pieces. For bowls, on a convex surface, like the outside of most bowls, because of the curve, you are always working on the part of the bevel that is directly behind the cutting edge, and not on the heel of the bevel, which makes flat/concave a difference too small to measure, no matter which bevel angle you are using. On a convex surface, like the inside of most bowls, to keep the bevel rubbing close to the cutting edge, we grind most of the heel of the bevel away.

robo hippy

[Prashun Patel]

"but i noticed recently that i was getting alot of chatter when i was hollowing out a bowl or goblet..."

What has changed recently?

Is your tenon the proper size for your chuck?

Are you noticing the chatter on the smoothing cuts, or even on the roughing cuts?

Are you using a faceplate or screw to turn the outside, then switching to a chuck for the interior? Are your chuck jaw screws tight? Mine loosened over time. Tightening helped a little, but my bowl chatter has been best solved by moving up a size in chuck jaws.

Also, what size gouge vs what size vessel are you using?

[John Nordyke]

As regards a parting tool and knife-through-butter cuts you see in videos, bet you have the same situation I used to have - there's a big difference between a diamond cross section parting tool and a flat one - specifically, with the flat sided one I used to have, the width of um, 'kerf', I guess, is the same as the thickness of the parting tool, and you get significant friction on the sides. You want a parting tool where the cutting edge is actually wider than the thickness of the rest of the tool so that there's clearance in the kerf....

[John Sanford]

Does anybody else find it ironic that somebody with the surname of Oldham, from North Carolina, would be asking a sharpening question? ;)