My auger bit doesn't bite

[Brian Sommers]

I have an adjustable auger bit. I drilled one hole. Worked great. Now I started my second hole, about 1/4" through and it just spins. It doesn't bite into the wood. What am I doing wrong?

[Luke Dupont]

The snail is what makes it catch and pull into the wood (the screw bit at the point). Sometimes it gets clogged, or even needs sharpening. And sometimes, if it's clogged, you'll ream out a conical hole and destroy the threads in the wood that was carrying it through. In this case, you'll need to apply a good deal of pressure and go slowly until it gets started again.

Are they old, or new bits? I have both some auger bits that I've bought from an antique shop, and some new ones from IRWIN, and neither came particularly sharp. I touched up the cutting edges and even the threads with a small, thin half-round hobby file (the type that has a very thin edge), and they work much better.

[Jim Koepke]

Pictures might help if you can post them.

Sometimes the lead screw gets clogged or hits a soft spot in the wood.

How big of a hole are you boring?

For bigger sizes I like to drill a small pilot hole.

A problem unique to an adjustable auger is if the locking screw is loose the 'wing' can move, causing it to jam.

Most adjustable augers only cut on one side. It may take a little operator provided pressure on the brace's pad to get it through the places where it gets bogged down. Be careful when approaching the end of the cut as it can blow through with unwanted results. I know, I did it yesterday with a fast cutting 5/16" bit.

Also as with any auger bit one needs to avoid things like knots, nails, screws and anything else that might damage the bit.

Here is a link to A Bit About Augers: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131238

Hope this is some help.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

https://dzhj8173mkary.cloudfront.net/static-file-transform/952/thumbnail%2Cw_300%2Ch_300%2Cm_a.jpgMaybe an auger bit file from Lie Nielsen will help.:)

[Jim Koepke]

https://dzhj8173mkary.cloudfront.net/static-file-transform/952/thumbnail%2Cw_300%2Ch_300%2Cm_a.jpgMaybe an auger bit file from Lie Nielsen will help.:)

I would like to see pictures of shavings before suggesting someone learn to sharpen auger bits. Adjustable bits are a bit more tricky than a fixed bit.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I would like to see pictures of shavings before suggesting someone learn to sharpen auger bits. Adjustable bits are a bit more tricky than a fixed bit.

jtk

Your probably right. However, I have dressed up the threads a small amount with such a file. Possibly, a 4" saw file would be better for the threads.

If an adjustable bit is not biting, the spur and threads are suspect. I find that adjustable bits are a little cranky any way.
I have adjustable bits, but when I have a weird diameter hole to drill, I pretty much go to the orange box store and buy a bit the size I need.

[Bill Houghton]

Excellent suggestions so far. One other question: is the wood species the same on the second hole (attempt) as on the first? If the bit's dull, the force of trying to penetrate the wood can overcome the grip of the snail or screw at the center, and you get spinning. This can be true in softwoods (wood's too soft, and it strips out) and hardwoods (wood's too hard for the dull cutter, and the wood strips out).

Yes to pictures; that could help us figure out what's going on. You don't mention your location - no obligation to do so, but if it turns out you're in the same town as another, more experienced member here, s/he may be willing to visit with you and look at the bit, your technique, etc.

Adjustable bits are difficult bits. Your posting history and your questions imply that you're a new kid with this stuff. Starting with the hard tools isn't always the best plan.

[Glen Canaday]

My first go-to is the same as mentioned above, the stripping of the threads in the wood that the snail makes. A dull snail will do it, and so will a soft wood coupled with too little pressure backing it up through the brace.

You should not have to apply a LOT of pressure..usually just enough to keep the snail engaged in the wood. If it is a large bit with a wide snail (the bigger the bit, the bigger the threads, the more splitting action it can impart) a pilot hole about half the diameter of the widest part of the snail helps a lot. I never do more than that..after all, I want it to have something to bite into.

If you're near Minneapolis/St. Paul I'll have a little time Saturday.

[Brian Sommers]

Thanks all. I'm in Ohio.
I finally got through. I drilled a pilot hole all the way through and started from the other side. Everything went well and then it began slipping. Oh, same species of wood: poplar. Anyway, I would drill a little with my 13/16" bit, that worked well then switched back to my adjustable bit (1"). Eventually got through it. I did have to chisel a little to smooth it out.

i ordered a new 1" bit Irwin and I will get rid of this. I was a bit bummed he sold it to me, he told me it was a good bit.

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks all. I'm in Ohio.
I finally got through. I drilled a pilot hole all the way through and started from the other side. Everything went well and then it began slipping. Oh, same species of wood: poplar. Anyway, I would drill a little with my 13/16" bit, that worked well then switched back to my adjustable bit (1"). Eventually got through it. I did have to chisel a little to smooth it out.

i ordered a new 1" bit Irwin and I will get rid of this. I was a bit bummed he sold it to me, he told me it was a good bit.

I've never used adjustable bits, so I'm sure they can be more tricky, but I wouldn't get rid of it that fast unless you'd just prefer to sell it to pay for more conventional bits.

The problems you describe are all ones that I have had with conventional auger bits, though. Whilst I imagine they might not be as bad with conventional bits, I think it's just part of the territory with augers that you have to get a feel for and learn. I was a bit disappointed with the first auger bits that I used for the exact same reasons as you describe, but after getting a feel for how they work, and sharpening them, I've not had much difficulty with them.

I'm not sure why some users have cautioned against trying to sharpen them, for fear of messing up. My take is that we need to learn to sharpen all of our tools, and the sooner the better. And in my experience, auger bits, just like chisels and plane irons, don't come that sharp from the manufacturer, much less the flea market (which, by the way, is one of the best places to acquire them!). Just do your research, work carefully, and you should have some wonderful, very sharp bits to work with. If you prefer, though, it may be worth trying to find some cheap old rusted ones at such a flea market/antique store, and practicing on those. They're more common than you might think, and when you're done with them, they'll be quite useable.

To be bluntly honest, I just went to work with my little hobby file without even watching any how-to's, and sharpened the cutters and threads perfectly fine within the span of a few minutes. But, I would recommend doing your research and not following my example, to be on the safe side. I just didn't find it to be that difficult. But, I've filed edges and even threads (on bolts that had been dented, and wouldn't thread) a few times before.

I don't know, though. Am I giving irresponsible advice? There are much more experienced users here whom you might be better off listening to.

[Bill McDermott]

Brian, Maybe it will help to see what my augers looked like before and after filing them. When new, the grinding was so rough that the waste wood could not slide up the spiral groove. It resulted in clogged lead screws every time. After filing the threads on the lead screw with a triangular needle file, and then smoothing out the exits ramps and edges, I sharpened the flutes and edge. They work great now. Disappointing on brand new augers (Irwin), but a one time fettling job.

[Jim Koepke]

Your probably right. However, I have dressed up the threads a small amount with such a file. Possibly, a 4" saw file would be better for the threads.

If an adjustable bit is not biting, the spur and threads are suspect. I find that adjustable bits are a little cranky any way.
I have adjustable bits, but when I have a weird diameter hole to drill, I pretty much go to the orange box store and buy a bit the size I need.

I have touched up threads with a saw file. Have been thinking about buying a knife or feather edge file for the purpose. Recently was thinking this while touching up lead threads on a recently purchased gimlet.

My adjustable auger used to be a bit cranky. Touched up the sharpening a bit and it does fine. I only use it for odd sizes that I do not have in fixed augers.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I've never bought from "The Traditional Woodworker", but the instructors at Homestead Heritage (near Waco Texas) spoke highly of them.
IIRC, the school bought the hand tools for their classes from them.

Traditional Woodworker recently sent me a new current catalog. It has auger bits in it. At less than $20 a bit, it might be wise to order one and see what the quality is.

They have a web site. Check them out.

[Jim Koepke]

I don't know, though. Am I giving irresponsible advice? There are much more experienced users here whom you might be better off listening to.

Not at all. We do need to learn the ins and outs of sharpening, the how tos and why fors before trying to make an edge sharp. Auger bits have a few rules about not filing the outsides of the spurs or underside of the cutting lips. Another part to auger bits is the lead screw spiral should lead into one or both of the cutting lips. Sometimes sharpening can mess this up if one isn't careful.

When buying new bits it is important the spurs are long enough to be able to contact the wood for a full revolution before the cutting lips start lifting the wood. This helps to ensure the edge of the hole is smooth.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Traditional Woodworker recently sent me a new current catalog. It has auger bits in it. At less than $20 a bit, it might be wise to order one and see what the quality is.

I have bought used bits from anywhere at 3-5 for $1 to a dollar each.

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

Auger bits have a few rules about not filing the outsides of the spurs or underside of the cutting lips. Another part to auger bits is the lead screw spiral should lead into one or both of the cutting lips. Sometimes sharpening can mess this up if one isn't careful.

I discerned those first two rules on my own, but I hadn't considered the importance of the screw spiral leading into a cutting edge! Will keep that in mind.

[Glen Canaday]

I didn't think of that, either.

But as a result of reading this thread today, I went out and sharpened a 2" expansive (adjustable) bit and put a 2" hole in a 2x4.

They are really not hard to sharpen. Grab a small file, a 4" smooth file is probably OK as long as you watch those edges, or even better, grind them off, and watch a youtube video on it. Paul Sellers's video is pretty good.

While I was sharpening it, the incredibly beautiful neighbor girl walked by and said hi, wondering what a bit brace was for! See? This stuff WORKS!