Dog Hole Lamp & Fenceless Rebates (Rabbets)

[Jim Koepke]

In another thread I mentioned a method of using a rabbet (rebate) plane without a fence.

So today another fuzzy video has been posted:

https://youtu.be/ZPQiTcewxCE

It starts with what was a piece used to checkout the workings of a hollow auger. It was used as a bench dog for a few things. Then one time when I wanted to get another swing arm desk lamp over the bench a 1/2" hole was drilled into the end. It would be easy to make something like this with a block of wood and a dowel sized for the dog holes.

I didn't say in the video to ride the corner of the plane in the slit to cut on the waste side of the mark. Once there is a good 'vee' notch the angle is lowered.

You may notice a bandaid on my left index finger. For some reason clearing shavings from a rabbet plane is usually a 50-50 chance of me getting nicked. This happened earlier in the day when I was doing this with a wooden skew rabbet.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Jim,

You may know about the LV lamp bushing (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70534&cat=1,41637) but if not they work great and fit standard dog holes.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

You may know about the LV lamp bushing (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70534&cat=1,41637) but if not they work great and fit standard dog holes.

ken

Why buy what you can make?

Besides by the time they got here I could make a bunch of them without having to pay the shipping.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Jim. That is a good video.

What might be added is that this technique is important to develop even if one uses a moving fillister for planing rebates. Sometimes the workpiece is too shallow/small to use a fence, and one needs to plane a rebate without it.

I use a shoulder plane for this - open the mouth and take a deeper cut. The line is scored deeply - progressively - with a cutting gauge, and a knife wall formed with a chisel or knife. This makes it easier to run the side of the plane. A few runs to even the surface at the wall, and then straighten out.

Be sure to have a clear baseline to work to if the plane does not have a depth stop. I score with a cutting gauge and then run blue tape below this as a visual aid.

Shoulder planes can do this job very well, and are better balanced than that #10 1/2 of yours. They may also be used to correct a line that tapers - this point is relevant when you flush the blade against the side of the body. A slight projection (of the blade enables it to cut into the corners. Without this you will find the wall tapering towards the outside. This can be square either with a shoulder plane or, better still, with a cutting gauge, by slicing away the waste.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for the kind words Derek.


A slight projection (of the blade enables it to cut into the corners. Without this you will find the wall tapering towards the outside.

Too much projection can cause the plane to move into the wall increasing the rabbet width, especially with a 'freehand' method. It is all a matter of finding the sweet spot for the blade and plane working together. For me the press against the bench method always seems to work. It may be some cosmic luck, but until it stops working I'm sticking with it.

I am sure other planes would be easier to use than the #10-1/2. My point was "it can be done" more than anything else. It may actually be faster than setting up a batten. Most of the time my favorite plane for rabbeting is the Record #778.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Why buy what you can make?

Besides by the time they got here I could make a bunch of them without having to pay the shipping.

jtk

Jim,

At one time in my life I would ask the same question, then go out and buy the tools and goods to make something that cost twice as much and only worked half as well....As always YMMV. :-).

ken

[Matt Knights]

I use this method when making raised panels, using a knife or gauge line start with a wooden rabbet plane once its established then go to a badger plane. Works a treat.

Matt

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

At one time in my life I would ask the same question, then go out and buy the tools and goods to make something that cost twice as much and only worked half as well....As always YMMV. :-).

ken

The tools and scrap are already in the shop. Less work than walking to my mailbox which is about 1/4 mile round trip.

jtk