Bowl finish question

[Ricc Havens]

I know there is a "project finishing" discussion thread here on the Creek. But, since I am not sure many turners would see this question I decided to post it here instead since it's bowl finishing not necessarily a furniture project. So sorry if I offend anyone and moderators if you think it needs to be moved then that's okay too.

I have an birch bowl that I have turned (sorry camera app on phone not working so I can't post a pic). I sanded through 320 grit while on the lathe. Parted off and sanded the bottom and went to put finish on. I used Minwax Antique oil as I had some left and wanted to use it up. The end grain portions of the birch absorbed the oil like a sponge (and kept absorbing it as I applied it). After wiping off the access from the side grain - the side grain portions of the bowl are starting to take a buildup and luster from the oil. The end grain portions look very dull like no finish was applied.

Any suggestions on how to make it all look uniform?

Thanks
Ricc Havens

[Brice Rogers]

Ricc, from what I've read, MW antique oil is a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and a thinner. If your wood is porous the oil will soak in. It will take some time until the antique oil cures. Until then, it will probably continue to sop up the oil until it is saturated. That can take a while. If you don't let the finish cure between recoats, it will continue to soak it up.

I tried "OB Shine juice" (Eddie Castelin) or friction polish, which is similar (BLO, shellac and alcohol) on a thirsty wood. After about 10 applications had soaked in, I threw in the towel and overcoated it with poly. Even that took a few coats before it stopped soaking in.

You may want to consider letting the current coat cure (until you can't smell it) and then recoat with something to seal it, like shellac or poly. Just to thought - - I'm no expert - - I'm learning too.

[Roger Chandler]

Let it dry, and if possible mount it on the lathe and wet sand with the antique oil....180 thru 400 grits. You will be amazed at the final finish! Don't be too stingy with the Antique oil.

[Ricc Havens]

thanks for the ideas guys. Not sure if I can remount for sanding as Roger suggests as the grain must be porous enough that I can't get it to hold vacuum.

Ricc

[Wayne Kuhn]

Let the oil cure and beal buff with carnuba wax

[Thomas Canfield]

I buff with Tripoli compound before and after each coat of a Danish oil type finish. The original Tripoli seems to take my 400 sanding to a higher level and the buffing tends to fill the wood pores and give a more uniform finish. I will use minimum of 3 applications of oil allowing to dry between coats, and then do a final buff with Tripoli and then use Renaissance wax. You do get a little reddish tint from the Tripoli buff on the bare wood but I do not find that a problem on darker woods, but do on light woods.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I buff with Tripoli compound before and after each coat of a Danish oil type finish. The original Tripoli seems to take my 400 sanding to a higher level and the buffing tends to fill the wood pores and give a more uniform finish. I will use minimum of 3 applications of oil allowing to dry between coats, and then do a final buff with Tripoli and then use Renaissance wax. You do get a little reddish tint from the Tripoli buff on the bare wood but I do not find that a problem on darker woods, but do on light woods.

In my former life I was a jeweler, and I used brown tripoli as a coarse abrasive pre-finish, and white diamond tripoli as a fine abrasive pre-finish, then to colored rouges specific to each metal. Perhaps if you'd use white diamond on light colored woods, you would not embed the color of the tripoli into the wood as noticeably. Just a suggestion. I found a link to pipe makes that show the different colors and grit sizes of tripoli. (http://pipemakers.org/finishing_products.html) Perhaps this might help the OP with a solution to getting the luster he desires?